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View Full Version : Using a threaded barrel with a 6304 ALS HOLSTER?



se7en30
11-16-11, 23:23
I have an M&P .40 with a KKM TB, the TB is hitting the muzzle protector and not allow the pistol to go all the way in the holster, anyone have solution or know of a modification?

militarymoron
11-17-11, 09:15
what's a TB? threaded barrel that sticks out the front? if so, the problem isn't with the holster - you're using it for something it wasn't designed to accommodate.
looks like your only solution is to remove the muzzle protector.

JSantoro
11-17-11, 09:46
I got lost in acronym soup, too. It's a KKM Precision threaded barrel, and has nothing to do with references to car-engine mods or tuberculosis found on the first page of a Google search.

Part of me wants to say "heat-gun it and push slowly!" but I'm guessing that that's about an extra .5" protrusion, which is probably to far to expect the material to retain any strength...presuming that that could be done in the first place.

As for removal....should be do-able, given that piece of hex-head hardware at the base, but the light-bearing holsters don't have the trigger-guard support of their gun-only brethren. So, isn't that whosywhatsis at the muzzle end of the holster required to ensure that the gun stays in the position it needs for snug retension? The light is unsupported, so SOMEthing has to be keeping the gun from sliding down too far and rattling like dice in a backgammon cup?

Blast it, my gunbelt's in the truck, but the holsters are with their guns, otherwise I'd be able to look....:mad:

se7en30
11-17-11, 09:51
thanks for the info

JSantoro
11-17-11, 18:58
EUREKA!

If Safariland doesn't have any answers, here's the kind of WECSOG solution I'd gin up.....

Note the highlighted portion in the photo below. That block comes out, via the hardware on the side of the holster.

Suggestion is: Remove it, cut off the highlighted portion, and reinstall, adding some JB Weld to ensure that that thing doesn't pivot (but not until after you've dry-fit it to ensure everything's kosher in terms of fit and retention).

http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/2530/tbmod.jpg[

ArmaGlock
11-17-11, 21:24
I could be mistaken, but I think that highlighted portion actually goes inside the barrel, so cutting it off won't allow the gun to sit any farther into the holster. If you remove the piece all together and just let the weight be put on the light then you will probably run into issues with the retention system.

JSantoro
11-17-11, 22:47
Yes, it DOES go in the barrel, and it's the crux of the problem, hence why ditching it would probably fix the problem. But, not the whole block...

The bottom of the light shroud is only held in by friction, and it's thin. There's no way it'd take the weight, and having now taken a closer look at it, it looks like lip-service, and I wonder why it's really even there. Try depending on that, I'm fairly certain it'd still retain, but you'd end up being louder than two skeletons boinking each other on a tin roof when you walked.

Something that should be pointed out:

This part of muzzle of the gun....
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/8537/tbmod3.jpg

...with a standard-length barrel, rests on this part of the block in question.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1893/tbmod2.jpg

A TB is too long to allow it to do that. Ditch the part of that block meant to insert in a standard-length barrel, the decidedly non-standard length of the TB can go past the block. That will allow the part of the gun's muzzle I highlighted to rest where it's otherwise supposed to, on that raised, oblong, molded tab of plastic. Which will also position the TB-installed gun where it would be if it had a standard-length barrel.

se7en30
11-18-11, 07:09
i'm having the block modified, just removing the portion of the block that the barrel is hitting, safariland is sending me another block, so if the mod does not work i will just put it back to stock. thanks again for all the info

scottryan
11-19-11, 13:26
None of the solutions posted here is the correct one.

You need to remove the safariland block and set it aside.

You then get a nylon sleeve made to cover the exposed screw that you will see after installing the screw back into the bottom of the holster.

I had to do this for my SIG P226 with threaded barrel in my ALS.

You can buy the appropriate sleeve at a hardware store with nylon hardware. It might need to be reduced in length depending on what gun you have.

se7en30
11-19-11, 14:45
Damn that's simple