View Full Version : Wife bought me a gun safe! Now what?
My wife really wanted me to get a safe and I heard about a deal Tractor Supply was having for black Friday. We got a Cannon model TS6040. It's supposed to be a 36 gun safe and has the following dimensions:
Exterior Width: 40 in.
Exterior Length: 25-15/16 in.
Exterior Height: 60 in.
Inner Width: 38-1/4 in.
Inner Length: 21-5/8 in.
Inner Height: 58-1/4 in.
It's going in our bedroom closet, so it will be climate controlled. What, if anything, do I need to put in it to help with moisture control? I've not had any issues with the guns just being in the closet. Does putting them in a safe change that?
Also, this thing has internal outlets, so that's convenient for electronics. What's the best light kit? Just rope style Christmas LED lights?
Any other good accessory recommendations?
Thanks!
mkmckinley
11-28-11, 08:56
Man sounds like you have a keeper. I live in the Pacific Northwest and it's always pretty humid. When I first moved here I noticed some light spots of rust on a stainless S&W 629 and kind of panicked and decided to come up with a rust preventive maintenance system. When I got a safe it didn't change anything and I haven't had any rust problems with guns being stored in my safe. I just kept my pre-safe regimen intact: Every 3 months everyone gets a coat of CLP/Ballisotol/Gun oil or whatever is handy at the time. If I handle or shoot a blued or bare stainless firearm it gets wiped down with a slightly oiled patch and then placed in a bore store. ARs and other parked or coated guns get an extra coat of oil if I shoot them in the rain or hose them off but not if I just dry fire them or shoot them indoors.
If I'm going out of town I'll spray everything pretty good with Birchwood Casey Barricade and that has worked for over seven months at a stretch. I've never needed any sort of dehumidifier or anything special beyond oil and bore stores. I know GA is a little warmer than here in the summer but I can't see going through the trouble of maintaining Silica packets or anything. I haven't used one of these but I plan to when I move back to the southeast. It might be worth a try for a little added insurance:
http://www.goldenroddehumidifiers.com/new_products.htm
I run a golden rod and some desicent (Spelling) tubs in cans in mine its over kill but worth it to me.
Cheapest desiccant I can come up with is silica gel kitty litter + panty hose. Just fill up panty hose after panty hose with about a cup of kitty litter and throw it in a box at the top of the safe. If you go all out and buy the gel balls that change color, you can see when you need to change desiccant packs by what color the majority of the balls in the kitty litter are.
Any other good accessory recommendations?
Firearms. :)
I'm in the market after the new year for a gunsafe and I know nothing about them. Is the brand the OP got a good one or what are the top choices out there?
Thanks and sorry for the hijack!
I've found that if your firearms have pistol grips and/or optics, you can effectively halve the advertised capacity in your safe.
It helps, at least for me, to store them muzzle down.
If your safe is fire rated, then it will trap moisture inside and yes, running some dessicant will definitely help.
For rust prevention, I like breakfree collector. I had a slight rust issue with my 870 which it stopped completely. I haven't tried every product out there, but I am sold on this one.
I've been using boxes of dessicant for years with no problems. You just have to "revive" them now and then in the oven.
I use disposable brushes and "paint" break free collector on all my firearms with heavy coat inside and out.
OP: My dad just told me about a dessicant unit that after it's absorbed as much moisture as it can, you plug it into the wall to "cook" it dry again, then reuse. A little nicer than just a can, but still easy for a garage/closet application where you might otherwise have to run an extension cord for a goldenrod. I'll repost if I can find more info on it, unless someone else knows?
Don't forget to bolt the safe to the floor AND the wall. It's easy to do and doesn't hurt anything. Perhaps you'll never have a break-in, but except for the montrous half-tonners, gun safes are really easy to move.
LRB45: Yes. I like the Cannon safes and would buy the best deal I could find on one.
Outstanding !!! I always try and tell my friends that do the Hide in the closet route a Story of My cousin losing all his weapons due to a break in .make sure you bolt the Bad boy down good .
with the weapons we own a Safe is just a good investment and it will help on your insurance and give you peace of mind .
The silica dessicant pellets out of a quality baby diaper will absorb huge amounts of moisture before needing a change or drying out.
Exponentially more than cat litter actually.
If you don't want to tear one apart, just pierce some holes in the outside so airflow can pass through and lay it out on a shelf.
Works very well when laid on the floorbards of a car being stored over winter too BTW.
The silica dessicant pellets out of a quality baby diaper will absorb huge amounts of moisture before needing a change or drying out.
Ha! Never thought of that but you're right... have had a couple of the kids' diapers over the years get run through the wash on accident. They come out the size of a grapefruit!
Whiskey_Bravo
11-28-11, 14:09
I can't say that I would have ever thought about throwing a diaper in the safe to avoid rust.
Desiccant and other water absorbing pellets are not real rust prevention.
The following is prevention
1. Oil
2. Air Conditioning
3. Golden Rod
The pellets/desiccant fall into the "nice to have" category.
I'm in the market after the new year for a gunsafe and I know nothing about them. Is the brand the OP got a good one or what are the top choices out there?
Most of the inexpensive gun "safes" out there are imported and are pretty comparable. It's a rare home burglar that would get into any of them, if you make sure and bolt it down. I worked several burglaries where they took the whole friggin gun safe. Even one where they used the guy's own reefer dolly, that was sitting right next to it in the garage. Dumbass.....
If you have a Costco near you, they have some pretty screaming deals if you pick it up yourself, and it's hard to beat their return policy. And definitely go with a Golden Rod or similar device in it.
I've found that if your firearms have pistol grips and/or optics, you can effectively halve the advertised capacity in your safe.
Isn't that the truth. Half at best. The capacities they claim are ridiculous. Optics, levers, bolts, etc., will keep you from being able to use every slot. Your whole collection would have to be unscoped single shot .22's.
For rust prevention, I like breakfree collector. I had a slight rust issue with my 870 which it stopped completely. I haven't tried every product out there, but I am sold on this one.
Never heard about that one. Thanks for the tip.
What's the best light kit? Just rope style Christmas LED lights?
Any other good accessory recommendations?
Thanks!
Yup. The rope LED lights are what some of the manufacturers use in their light kits. And if your safe doesn't have one of the door kits with the velcro pockets and straps to hold stuff, I'd get one. I bought two safes earlier in the year with them. Been really handy for holding additional stuff, mags, etc.
I've been using boxes of dessicant for years with no problems. You just have to "revive" them now and then in the oven.
+1!!! You also need to bolt it to the floor.
Bad Medicine
12-14-11, 18:23
+1!!! You also need to bolt it to the floor.
Yeah, I am going to purchase a safe here soon and I am curious as to how everyone is bolting theirs down. I live in the suburbs of chicago and the scum here are notorious for scoping out house, bringing tools, and stealing everything including the copper plumbing! I have a cousin in California who didn't bolt down his safe and the lowlifes hauled it off no problem!
The first thing I'd do is take the Mrs. out to dinner and show her how much you appreciate the new gun safe. Do this before you buy anything for the safe, believe me, it'll be easier later on:thank_you2:
spring1271
12-14-11, 20:02
I don't know what type of construction your home is or where your bedroom is, But consider the weight of the safe if it is a second floor bedroom. I have seen heavy safes cause floors to sag. Also if your house were to ever catch fire they tend to wind up in the basemennt anyway, and it not so good shape. Also person such as a firemen were below it could be bad. Just thoughts for your consideration.
Before I bought my Fort Knox safe for the bedroom, I dug out an area in the dirt crawlspace directly underneath the floor where the safe would be. I remember it being about 8" deep. I then poured concrete into the hole, leveled it and let it harden. A week later I made crossbraces from landscape timbers in a rectangular pattern which were placed against the braces under the floor. I then placed two screw jacks between the concrete and the landscape timbers. I screwed them up to make contact and slightly tightened them to apply upward pressure. The safe weighs over 1,000 lbs. empty and I figured this would compensate for settling of the earth under the concrete as well as timber deformation due to moisture. It has been fine for over 15 years now.
Congrats on the new safe.
Yes bolt it down.
I anchor a lot of stuff in concrete.
I like any one of these: drop in anchors, sleeve anchors, wedge anchors.
Found here: http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/products/_/N-gj4y8k&
Drop in anchors require a set tool – be sure you get one or borrow one.
A lot will depend on what type of floor you have, and what kind of access you have to the bottom of your safe.
After drilling in concrete, be sure you vacuum out the hole before putting the anchor in. It’s not absolutely necessary, but if you’re new to anchors, that dust could present a problem if you mess up.
Make sure if you drill into concrete you don't drill into in-floor heating pipes, etc.
I’ll answer any questions you have.
Bad Medicine
12-15-11, 14:04
I appreciate the responses I have a wood Floor so I will have to go under the foundation and pour myself a little slab!
The goldenrods work good. Eventually the safe will get full and you will be asking what to do next; buy a quality jobbox like a grenlee for storing your " heavy stuff":)
Contrats on your new safe!
First off Congratulations on your new safe! These work pretty well if you need Dehumidifier.
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/CAMP196-1.html
http://cdn1.cheaperthandirt.com/ctd_images/lgprod/CAMP-196.jpg
I've worked several burglaries where safes were taken and on occasion we recovered them much later. Generally a sledge hammer and grinder gets them inside. Even a lower quality safe anchored to the floor is better than a great quality safe not anchored. Most safes have pre drilled holes in the bottom already. Both of mine are anchored in the foundation with 4", 5/8" anchor bolts. I've seen cases where the safes were heavy enough that the thiefs couldn't move them so they turned them over just to tear up the house.
On the fire safes; I have one that is and one that isn't. I'm sure they afford some protection but I can't tell you that from dozens of structure fires over the years that I've been at both as a volunteer fireman and as a police officer that it ever made a difference in a fully engulfed fire. In some cases 5/8 fireboard may be cheaper and afford better protection. On my safe that is not fire rated I installed it in a spare bedroom closet and ripped out the sheet rock and replaced it with fireboard. Peace of mind is probably the only thing I gained from this!
I've worked several burglaries where safes were taken and on occasion we recovered them much later. Generally a sledge hammer and grinder gets them inside. Even a lower quality safe anchored to the floor is better than a great quality safe not anchored. Most safes have pre drilled holes in the bottom already. Both of mine are anchored in the foundation with 4", 5/8" anchor bolts. I've seen cases where the safes were heavy enough that the thiefs couldn't move them so they turned them over just to tear up the house.
On the fire safes; I have one that is and one that isn't. I'm sure they afford some protection but I can't tell you that from dozens of structure fires over the years that I've been at both as a volunteer fireman and as a police officer that it ever made a difference in a fully engulfed fire. In some cases 5/8 fireboard may be cheaper and afford better protection. On my safe that is not fire rated I installed it in a spare bedroom closet and ripped out the sheet rock and replaced it with fireboard. Peace of mind is probably the only thing I gained from this!
Your post sent me on a search for fireboard. I've been in construction for 35 years and hadn't heard of it. I always thought drywall was adequate fire protection. I learned something today.
That search also turned up a link to fireboard and gun safes, which led me to this quote:
Use Caution when storing ammunition in your safe - The following story best illustrates this tip... A long time client's safe was subjected to an intense home fire. The fire burned for hours at very high temperatures. Despite this onslaught, paper contents within the Brown Gun Safe were kept below flashpoint. The multiple cases of .50 caliber ammunition at the base of the safe, however, did ignite. When fired through a gun, bullets produce very little smoke. When ignited through non-standard means, however, excessive smoke is a common by product. In this instance, the erupting ammo cases obliterated all contents within one foot of the ammo cases and caused heavy smoke damage to the rest of the safes contents. Even with the extensive smoke, most of the safe's contents, largely paper memorabilia and photo albums, survived intact. Had there been no ammo containers, however, all of the safe's contents would have made it.
Think twice before storing any ammo in a safe as your exposing the other safe contents to higher risk.
Avoid storing large amounts of ammo or powder inside a safe as the ensuing pressures if ignited can outpace the safe's ability to safely vent, creating the potential for a safe grenade.
http://www.brownsafe.com/categories/faq/SBG_Gun_Safes.html
So I learned 2 things today. I have the shelves raised up so my carbines will reach the barrel rests in one safe and in half of the other safe. I probably have 4,000 rounds of ammunition stored under the safe shelves split between 5.56x45 and 5.7x28. Maybe even 5,000 rounds.
Now I need to find somewhere else to store it. I thought it was a great idea when I put it in there.
If you had the skills you could even build a retro brick inside look out of firebricks. Slide the safe in and bolt it down. That could be an interesting idea for a do it yourselfer in a mancave or basement;).
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