View Full Version : What rates of fire am I limited to with an M4-2000?
Eurodriver
12-08-11, 10:38
Should be picking up my can next week (maybe this week, but I don't want to be disappointed)
I'm immediately taking it and my AAC Pilot to the range. I'm more looking forward to making sure my small gas port AR actually works suppressed as opposed to the actual act of using the suppressor.
At any rate, I will be bringing about 400 rounds with me to put through three different ARs. Most of it will be shot pretty quickly, no semi-auto mag dumps but not slow precision fire either. Think many "failure to stop/mogadishu" drills in rapid succession.
Will I be good?
Also, what about the pilot? I cant imagine .22LR beating up a suppressor too much, but for the sake of conversation will firing (4) 25 round mags as fast as possible damage the can? I can't ever imagine doing that so if it can hold up to that then I'll be content with whatever else I do.
M42K's are full auto rated if I am not mistaken so I am sure you will be fine.
You'll cook the finish if you get silly with more than a few mags in a row. The can can take it, but if you don't want that old barbque look to your silencer, you won't want to overheat it.
One mag of moderate/slow fire yields a VERY hot silencer.
Full auto rated means nothing. An idiot with a semi can fry his can quicker than a guy shooting sensible bursts in full auto.
You'll cook the finish if you get silly with more than a few mags in a row. The can can take it, but if you don't want that old barbque look to your silencer, you won't want to overheat it.
One mag of moderate/slow fire yields a VERY hot silencer.
Full auto rated means nothing. An idiot with a semi can fry his can quicker than a guy shooting sensible bursts in full auto.
What he said.
You shoot a few mags through it fast enough and you can mess up the finish. I think pretty much every suppressor my friends have and mine have heat marks on the finish.
I like the heat marks.
That shit looks weathered.
Im a big fan of usin my shit though so...
Eurodriver
12-08-11, 16:27
You'll cook the finish if you get silly with more than a few mags in a row. The can can take it, but if you don't want that old barbque look to your silencer, you won't want to overheat it.
One mag of moderate/slow fire yields a VERY hot silencer.
Full auto rated means nothing. An idiot with a semi can fry his can quicker than a guy shooting sensible bursts in full auto.
Not too concerned about the finish, I don't mind refinishing it if it gets too bad.
Would 3 rounds shot in rapid succession every 15 seconds for 2 or 3 minutes be an issue with the actual functional capability of the can, finish aside? I don't want to unwittingly beat my gear up with something I think it safe. Especially because there's no way in hell I'm waiting another 7 months for another M4-2000.
How is the mounting system compared to the M4-1000?
Shoot it and don't worry about it.
Eurodriver
12-08-11, 17:29
How is the mounting system compared to the M4-1000?
The M4-1000 has an 18t mount and the 2000 has a 51t mount. Other than that the actual method is exactly the same (with some minor differences in materials or something Im sure)
How is the mounting system compared to the M4-1000?
Tried them both... Like them both. Never a problem with either.
So its a screw (twist) on mount though right?
Like a YHM mount.
Whats the little clip thing on the back of the suppresor?
Not too concerned about the finish, I don't mind refinishing it if it gets too bad.
Would 3 rounds shot in rapid succession every 15 seconds for 2 or 3 minutes be an issue with the actual functional capability of the can, finish aside? I don't want to unwittingly beat my gear up with something I think it safe. Especially because there's no way in hell I'm waiting another 7 months for another M4-2000.
Quick answer, no. That would not be considered anything close to hard use.
So its a screw (twist) on mount though right?
Like a YHM mount.
Whats the little clip thing on the back of the suppresor?
It's a ratchet lever that locks onto teeth on the mount to prevent the can from backing off once mounted. You have to press it to unscrew the can.
Not too concerned about the finish, I don't mind refinishing it if it gets too bad.
Would 3 rounds shot in rapid succession every 15 seconds for 2 or 3 minutes be an issue with the actual functional capability of the can, finish aside? I don't want to unwittingly beat my gear up with something I think it safe. Especially because there's no way in hell I'm waiting another 7 months for another M4-2000.
I've run carbine matches where I fire 20-30+ rounds in 10-30 seconds for 5 stages. Dumping a whole mag gets the can hot but there's no sign of the finish fading.
Euordriver,
Don't worry about. Trust me- I am well versed in suppressor abuse.
Fireman1291
12-09-11, 05:25
I like the heat marks.
That shit looks weathered.
Im a big fan of usin my shit though so...
This
My 10.5" Noveske cooks my M42K. Let it rip!
You won't hurt the can. It will get "scalding" hot and stay that way for longer than you think. It will burn wood and melt plastic if it touches either so keep that in mind when you set the gun/can down. Moving the can to multiple guns, you better bring a good pair of thick gloves (I use a pair of welding gloves), or else you will be waiting for the can to cool.
Eurodriver
12-09-11, 06:27
You won't hurt the can. It will get "scalding" hot and stay that way for longer than you think. It will burn wood and melt plastic if it touches either so keep that in mind when you set the gun/can down. Moving the can to multiple guns, you better bring a good pair of thick gloves (I use a pair of welding gloves), or else you will be waiting for the can to cool.
What is the best type of glove to use that won't melt or stick to the can?
I have seen some guys use an "oven glove", gloves for changing MG barrels, etc. I keep a thick pair of leather insulated golves (winter work gloves) in my truck that I sometimes use. They work if your fast and the can is not "too hot". I am not a welder, the guys in my truck shop gave me the welding gloves one day when I was "bitching" about burning my hands and melting my bedliner when I droped a hot can.:shout: I now keep the welding gloves in my MG repair/tool kit which always goes with me shooting.
I generally only get mine hot enough that I can handle it with nomex flight gloves.... I just don't shoot that much silencer these days.
I recommend a suppressor cover like the ones from Elite Iron or Tyr Tactical. TABGear was supposed to come out with some newer ones as well.
What is the best type of glove to use that won't melt or stick to the can?
Eurodriver
12-09-11, 13:00
I recommend a suppressor cover like the ones from Elite Iron or Tyr Tactical. TABGear was supposed to come out with some newer ones as well.
IG,
Do you recommend this for use while firing as well as transport and removal?
Yes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zx4uzJs2Veg
https://www.uspalm.com/wishlist/surefire-k-can-cover.html
Though it says for Surefire it actually fits my AAC can well enough that it will do its' job.
IG,
Do you recommend this for use while firing as well as transport and removal?
Fireman1291
12-10-11, 08:30
Umm Suppressor covers are only to be used on weapons that have a slow firing schedule. IE- Bolt action or slow fire SA rifle. I have a TAB gear on my long range AR and its fine if you shoot slow. Rifle cans can reach 1200F rather quick and I'm telling you right now, any nomex/PBI/kevlar material will start to char.
Mirage typically isn't a problem on carbines anyway... most (not all) guys don't have magnified optics.
I can tell you from experience that if you get it hot enough and dirty enough, the can will "stick" to the mount. It will come off, but it will feel like you're twisting the mount off the barrel. The carbon buildup will semi-fuse the can to the mount. It was stuck enough that I called AAC before applying enough torque to remove it. :eek:
What is the best type of glove to use that won't melt or stick to the can?
http://www.bmgparts.com/products/barrelglove.jpg
Once you get it off you have to put it somewhere that it wont burn or melt, usually best to leave it on the gun until it cools.
Eurodriver
12-10-11, 17:39
Once you get it off you have to put it somewhere that it wont burn or melt, usually best to leave it on the gun until it cools.
I would be mounting it to another weapon.
How long does it normally take a can to cool?
I would be mounting it to another weapon.
How long does it normally take a can to cool?
It depends entirely on how hot you get it and the environmental conditions. I've had mine take 30 minutes to cool. When it's really hot outside, I usually just throw it in the car with an AC vent blowing directly on it.
That is correct of the TAB one (I have one as well) and not the PALM/TYR one which is why I switched. If it does get BBQ'd then they will replace it .
Umm Suppressor covers are only to be used on weapons that have a slow firing schedule. IE- Bolt action or slow fire SA rifle. I have a TAB gear on my long range AR and its fine if you shoot slow. Rifle cans can reach 1200F rather quick and I'm telling you right now, any nomex/PBI/kevlar material will start to char.
Gunz, how does the elite iron one hold up?
and go to bed, we gotta shoot tomorrow.
Pretty funny to watch Pappabear's Silencer Diaper smoldering and smoking on the ground today! :p
Strangely enough mine did ok. Hmmm.....
PB- contact Elite Iron and ask WTF?
Pretty funny to watch Pappabear's Silencer Diaper smoldering and smoking on the ground today! :p
Are they the same brand?
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb201/trixiebud/smolder.jpg?t=1323697234
Baked that ****er, and I did not even come close to full auto or senseless mag dumps. I did run a couple mags through but nothing crazy. Back and forth on steel at 35 yards then over to 100 and back.....
POS bioled. The strings are what cooked. At first I thought it was the quart of Frog Lube burning off, but no no no. It was my Elite diaper with a scalded ass. :mad: Not Bueno
buddyhoohaw
12-12-11, 19:13
https://www.uspalm.com/wishlist/surefire-k-can-cover.html
Though it says for Surefire it actually fits my AAC can well enough that it will do its' job.
I've never seen that US Palm can cover and it looks nice and low profile. Definiately on the wish list.
Cjeers
I would be mounting it to another weapon.
How long does it normally take a can to cool?
The .50 cal barrel mitt I posted would do the trick then, you can get them online for as little as $8. As others have said, it can take up to a half hour to cool depending on the can and environmental conditions.
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