View Full Version : Receiver Extensions in the white?
Anyone know where I can get a receiver extension (or 4) in the white? I've called VLTOR and they said they couldn't pull one off of the line for me before anodizing because of a warranty issue. Any other leads?
Before I get flamed, I just want this for a custom build that I have planned (have white receivers, handguard coming)...
I've asked around other places and looked quite a bit on google and am now casting a wider net.
You could have an extension sent out to be refinished. Or remove the finish and polish it yourself
patriot_man
12-11-11, 03:53
Get the anodizing stripped and anodized clear (or leave as is?) Not sure you can leave it as is. Had a local strip my 80% and re-anodize for $38. I think that's pretty cheap compared to other places I've called.
I apologize for veering off topic but I'm really curious... What are you planning to do with all the parts in the white?
To get back on point, I dont know what you plan on building spec-wise but I would just go ahead and get an A5 RE and get it stripped. That way you know youre getting a quality component and an A5 at that.
Thanks guys. I'm going to have these parts re anodized in a color other than black. Guess I'll buy some from VLTOR and get them stripped. I have been told that you can glass blast the anodizing off but I was under the impression it had to be stripped out of the metal chemically. Thoughts?
Is the stripping process something I would try to tackle myself? Has anyone here tried it?
Yes, there are 2 ways to do it. Bead blast it or chemically strip it. I'm not sure if there is a "kinder" form of bead blasting but the ones I've personally seen etched the surface. As for chemical stripping, they soak it in sodium hydroxide IINM. I wouldnt do it yourself unless you have experience anodizing or know how to use the chemical at least... Besides, bare aluminum tends to anodize itself a little when exposed to oxygen. Hence, either way, it'll have go through it or some other, better form of stripping unknown to me to remove the natural anodizing.
I usually use EZ-off oven cleaner to de-anodize parts. Just don't leave it on the aluminum for long, be ready to neutralize it once the color is gone or fading... That's kind of a shade-tree way of doing it. I would think that whoever is doing your anodizing would be able to strip it for you, no?
I would think that whoever is doing your anodizing would be able to strip it for you, no?
I will call them on monday. If not, I will have to find another anodizer. This is the outfit that does SunDevil's stuff. I really like their maroon color and this rifle will be for the wifey...
I was just going to ask you what color you were going for...:)
All it takes is a longer soak in their stripping bath I think. From what I know, the standard anodizing process consists of the following: strip, desmut, anodize, dye and seal. Plus, rinsing between some, if not all of the steps.
You can have it bead blasted with the fine powder (similar to baking soda). I did that to my rifle prior to having it ceramic coated. It did not etch the surfaces at all.
I contacted southwest metal finishing and the gentleman there told me that they can strip but they don't have the ability to blast after the stripping and advised me to get everything that I need stripped to be sent down, then blast everything together, then send it back for anodizing.
My next question would be what alloy are receiver extensions made out of? Do they differ from manufacturer to manufacturer or is there a 'standard' (I know, unlikely)...
I believe the mil-spec extensions are 7075 and 6061 for most of the commercials
Yup, 7075. Why do you want to get it blasted? Are looking to have a rough exterior finish? If all you want is to get the original anodizing off, their stripping process should be GTG.
Anodizing can't be done in white, but it can get close (it'll be a white silver). Not sure if that color can be done in type 3 though.
What about just taking a rattle can to it?
By in the white, he means unanodized. He wants them done in maroon which from what I know, is only possible with type II. I dont know for sure but maroon being somewhat dark, it may be possible with type II hard coat like that on DD's DE rails.
Send them to KG and have them coated whatever color you want.
Yup, 7075. Why do you want to get it blasted? Are looking to have a rough exterior finish? If all you want is to get the original anodizing off, their stripping process should be GTG.
The gentleman I spoke with said he recommended it because not all the parts would have been prepped the same before anodizing (which isn't a big deal when you're doing black apparently), but to get the most uniform finish, he recommended re-blasting everything at the same time...
By in the white, he means unanodized. He wants them done in maroon which from what I know, is only possible with type II. I dont know for sure but maroon being somewhat dark, it may be possible with type II hard coat like that on DD's DE rails.
Yes, I believe you are correct.
From their website...
Hard Anodize
(MIL-A-8625 Type III)
Class 1 (Clear/Natural)
Class 2 (Dyed)
Sulfuric Anodize
(MIL-A-8625 Type II)
Class 1 (Clear/Natural)
Class 2 (Dyed)
Send them to KG and have them coated whatever color you want.
Its just not the same :cool: :D
I guess what I'm running into now is 6061 vs 7075 and a uniform finish. The handguard I was getting in the white is 6061 (like everyone elses). The only handguard that I've found that incorporates 7075 is Lancers carbon fiber handguard which includes a 7075 cap (you can see the green anodized receiver set along with the handguard cap)
http://www.lancer-systems.com/Images/TAPS_1.gif
Does anyone know if a manufacturer produced a 7075 handguard or what I can expect in differences with the anodizing between the alloys?
The gentleman I spoke with said he recommended it because not all the parts would have been prepped the same before anodizing (which isn't a big deal when you're doing black apparently), but to get the most uniform finish, he recommended re-blasting everything at the same time...
Oh ok, makes sense now. In that case, I would do the bead blasting type blake-b recommended. That way you retain the smoothness needed on your RE, particularly on the inside.
On color consistency, did the guy you spoke with say anything about different alloy types coming out differently after dying? I was under the impression that as long as they are done in the same batch, they would come out the same.
There is a cleaning / degreaser available at home depot pep boys etc called greased lightning that will take anodizing off. Just pour a bottle into a metal tray and let the parts soak in it, in not much time it will start bubbling!
I was under the impression that as long as they are done in the same batch, they would come out the same.
Yeah, me too. He said he couldn't guarantee they would match perfectly with the differing alloys..
Anybody have a lead on 7075 handguards?
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