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jmoore
12-05-07, 18:37
Just rec'd a Sully trigger guard in the mail this afternoon. Looks like installation should be a no-brainer. OTOH - I've learned that those are just the situations where I screw up most often. (Combine this with the fact that I'm an AR newbie.)

So - anything above & beyond drifting out the old pins, removing the factory guard (on a 6920), and drifting the new pins in?

TIA

SuicideHz
12-05-07, 18:54
From what I've seen it just looks like two roll pins. From what you are saying, it sounds like two roll pins. Should be as simple as drifting them out and drifting the new ones in.

The magpul trigger guard comes with one roll pin and one allen screw but it is threaded for the allen screw.

DrMark
12-05-07, 19:47
When driving out a trigger guard pin, always support the frame tab. Frames have been broken doing this operation on an unsupported frame.

Another trick I do when installing a Magpul trigger guard (apply to others as appropriate) is the following: Drive the roll pin almost completely out, that is, to the point where is frees the trigger guard but remains in the frame tab. Replace the guard and drive the pin back to its original position. This eliminates having to insert a new pin (or the same pin) into the hole in the frame, a step which frustrates some folks.

Jaeger
12-05-07, 20:01
Definitely make sure your frame is fully supported. If you break off one of those little ears you are in the market for a new receiver.

Having a roll pin punch and roll pin starter punch will make the job easier but are not necessary.

SLR15
12-06-07, 19:03
Installation is rather simple. First you will need a 1/8" flat pin punch if removing a trigger guard that is already in a lower receiver. To remove a trigger guard, brace your lower receiver solidly onto a bench block (block of wood is sufficient that has a hole in it so the existing rollpin can be driven out through it. Oil any pins being removed with some type of penetrating oil like Kroil or Liquid Wrench. The trigger guard ear of the receiver needs to be flatly braced onto the bench block so you do not crack it. Drive the existing roll pin out using the 1/8" punch and a hammer, lots of taps with a hammer is better than a few big bangs.


To install the Sully trigger guard you need to brace the ear of the receiver where the rear of the trigger guard goes, brace it on the flat of a bench block so that the ear is fully supported. Using a gun lubricant, oil the two roll pins and the holes in the receiver where the pins go. Put the trigger guard into place in the receiver ears, I like to use a 1/8" flat pin punch and put it into one of the roll pin holes to hold the trigger guard in place to brace it while installing the other roll pin. Carefully tap the roll pins into place, I like using a roll pin punch so as not to damage the roll pin. Lots of little taps with the hammer is better than large bangs. The short roll pin goes in front pin hole, and the longer roll pin goes into the rear pin hole. If you have any more questions please ask.

jmoore
12-06-07, 21:07
Thanks Sully!

I can tell by looking at the TG that, in addition to providing more room for gloved hands in colder weather, it is going to do wonders in terms of getting rid of that nasty little recess that chews on your middle finger. I've only been shooting an AR for a couple of months - but I've learned to dislike that region:)

Thanks again.

jm

(PS - BTW, the folks at the Defensive Edge & SLR15 Rifle Store were very helpful in terms of helping me battle the ordering computer. I have somewhat of a black thumb when it comes to computers, and this time was no different. Sally Sullivan got me squred away:)

SLR15
12-06-07, 23:43
When we designed the Sully trigger guard it was our intention to make it enlarged enough for ease of use with gloved hands. We find that for door kicking we are usually wearing gloves, plus when our winters get extremely cold it usually calls for insulated gloves which can be a hindrance so the roomier trigger area helps. We spent time on the design making sure to fill in as much of the gaps inside and out as possible, this helps reduce cuts, abrasions, and rub marks that cause blisters. I've seen too many high speed operators stuffing foam ear plugs in the gaps and slapping a piece of 100mph tape on them just to get away from the cuts.