View Full Version : Removing stubborn barrel nut
Hi
I'm trying to remove the original barrel nut in order to put on my TRX-E. I've got the upper secured in a vise using the Brownells block. I'm using the tool provided from Troy with the handguard in combo with a breaker bar. The barrel is just really hard to get loose. I've tried brute force, heating the barrel nut, freezing the barrel nut but that sucker won't give in. I'm running out of options and almost started crying in my garage :cray:
Maybe a stupid question but is it somehow possible to cut the barrel nut loose using an angle grinder or manually with a hacksaw? It feels a little risky with the threads just under the barrel nut. Any ideas?
yugotprblms
12-23-11, 09:10
Hi
I'm trying to remove the original barrel nut in order to put on my TRX-E. I've got the upper secured in a vise using the Brownells block. I'm using the tool provided from Troy with the handguard in combo with a breaker bar. The barrel is just really hard to get loose. I've tried brute force, heating the barrel nut, freezing the barrel nut but that sucker won't give in. I'm running out of options and almost started crying in my garage :cray:
Maybe a stupid question but is it somehow possible to cut the barrel nut loose using an angle grinder or manually with a hacksaw? It feels a little risky with the threads just under the barrel nut. Any ideas?
I doubt you would want to cut it, just because of the threads, like you said. Maybe some penetrating oil, like Kroil or something could help, not sure though. If worse comes to worse, a gunsmith may be able to help.
patrick sweeney
12-23-11, 10:01
Warm the barrel nut, and soak it with the most aggressive penetrating oil you can lay hands on.
Once it has soaked for a few days/week, then heat the barrel nut and chill the chamber and receiver from the inside before you use the wrench.
I've had to cut the barrel nut, but I did it in a mill, and when I finally cut enough away to let the nut come loose, it popped with an audible snap. Audible over the sound of a running Bridgeport.
TacticalSledgehammer
12-23-11, 10:04
Time for a larger breaker bar
Unfortunately it does happen and I have had some that I had to cut as well.
I think I would get some Kroil and put a shit ton on the barrel nut area. Allow it to soak and then attempt to retry.
If you are having to apply lots of torque, would you be better off clamping the barrel instead of using the lower receiver block? Not saying it's so, just asking because I'd like to know.
Littlelebowski
12-23-11, 11:03
Unfortunately it does happen and I have had some that I had to cut as well.
I think I would get some Kroil and put a shit ton on the barrel nut area. Allow it to soak and then attempt to retry.
Oil of wintergreen has worked better for me as a penetrating oil, believe it or not.
Thanks for all the advice guys! I'll try to get some penetrating oil. In case that doesn't work how did you all go about with the cutting? Angle grinder?
It would've obviously been great if I could take it to a gunsmith for a quick fix but there are maybe 2 - 3 persons in the entire country that can call themselves gunsmith with some knowledge of the AR platform. Most guns here have lots of wood on them and are fired 5 - 6 a year at some animal.
I used a Dremel with the heavy duty cutting wheel and some finesse. The key is to go slow. Once you have most of the nut cut through then you will use a flat tip screwdriver and pry it apart.
The down side is that you will need to replace it which means removing the FSB and flash hider.
Thanks for all the advice guys! I'll try to get some penetrating oil. In case that doesn't work how did you all go about with the cutting? Angle grinder?
It would've obviously been great if I could take it to a gunsmith for a quick fix but there are maybe 2 - 3 persons in the entire country that can call themselves gunsmith with some knowledge of the AR platform. Most guns here have lots of wood on them and are fired 5 - 6 a year at some animal.
rubber ducky
12-23-11, 12:56
I've had luck in the past throwing the whole upper in the freezer...
its better than any cutting, especially with my clumsy hands.
HTH,
rd
Quiet-Matt
12-23-11, 13:08
If you are having to apply lots of torque, would you be better off clamping the barrel instead of using the lower receiver block? Not saying it's so, just asking because I'd like to know.
No, the threads are on the upper receiver. By clamping the barrel you would put all that torque againat the pin in the barrel extension, resulting in ruined parts.
Hopefully no one put loctite on it. What brand is it any way?
I used a Dremel with the heavy duty cutting wheel and some finesse. The key is to go slow. Once you have most of the nut cut through then you will use a flat tip screwdriver and pry it apart.
The down side is that you will need to replace it which means removing the FSB and flash hider.
I'll have to replace it with Troys nut anyway so it doesn't matter. FSP and flash hider are already off aswell.
I put the upper in the freezer for 4 hours and used a breakerbar about a yard long but it wouldn't come off. The vise block just starts to flex in the vise.
The weapon is a 16" middy made by a German AR company called Oberland Arms. Upper and lower are billet made in house. Barrels are Lothar Walther and all internals are made by LMT.
Littlelebowski
12-23-11, 14:02
Try heating it up, Swede.
Try heating it up, Swede.
Already tried and it didn't work I'm afraid.
@Iraqgunz: Did you cut into the barrel nut going along the barrel or perpendicular to it?
Megalomaniac
12-23-11, 18:10
If you have access to air tools I'd try heat and an air/impact hammer on the teeth of the barrel nut to try and turn the nut.
caelumatra
12-23-11, 21:05
I've had luck in the past throwing the whole upper in the freezer...
its better than any cutting, especially with my clumsy hands.
HTH,
rd
I second this. I've had good look doing this before anything else. Especially something as drastic as cutting. And it doesn't hurt anything to try it anyway
.
On instruments that have been in the weather for 15+ years, I have had luck Kroil'ing, heating, Kroil'ing, cooling, Kroil'ing, heating, Kroil'ing, cooling, and letting soak with Kroil overnight. I believe heating and cooling causes the two pieces of metal to expand differently, so a gap is opened for the Kroil to enter.
I had one instrument cover where a Tech unsuccessfully tried a pipe wrench with 3' cheater. I heated it, let it soak with Kroil for 2-hours and loosened it with a pair of Channelocks.
Kroil, temperature and time are the best tools.
.
I'll add one more thing to try. Back when I did this I didn't have access to this forum. I had to rebarrel a deparment Bushmaster that had been in service for over 10 years and lots of full auto and probably mag dumps aplenty knowing the coperator it was issued to. I tried everything I knew, freezing, lots of penetrating oil, nothing worked. I chucked it up real tight, put the wrench on the barrel nut and hit it, hard, with a 4lb. hammer. It broke free after the third hit. I was afraid of upper receiver dmage but there didn't appear to be any and after 5 years it's still running strong.
I cut it half and then gently pried it open. There was very little sign of it it on the threads of the receiver itself.
Already tried and it didn't work I'm afraid.
@Iraqgunz: Did you cut into the barrel nut going along the barrel or perpendicular to it?
Thanks Iraqgunz
As said I already tried putting the whole upper in the freezer but that didn't work
Suwannee Tim
12-24-11, 06:17
When I cut a nut off I make the cut perpendicular to the threads. If this nut was Loctited no amount of penetrating oil is going to help. In that case splitting the nut, maybe splitting in two or three cuts may be your best bet. You want to make multiple shallow passes every time looking for threads. The first indication of threads will be very faint, you might want to use a magnifier to look. Pry the slot open with a large screwdriver. If you get into the receiver threads a little bit it is probably no disaster. To break Loctite you need a lot of heat. This might be a problem as the receiver would be a very good heat sink and carry the heat into your action wrench.
Another option you could have is to sell the TRX-E rail on the EE. Then purchase a rail that mounts to the standard barrel nut like the ones from www.apexhandguard.com or www.centurionarms.com . Also, I have had good luck using this graphite free anti-seize product when installing barrel assemblies or on other metal to metal parts that might need to be taken apart later.
Lubro Anti-seize
LM508 - Special assembly lubricant for threaded connections exposed to high temperatures and adverse operating conditions. Protects nuts and bolts from seizing, galling, rust, pitting and damage.
Prevents corrosion between dissimilar metals, resists water and salt spray. Allows for easy, damage-free disassembly even after extended service periods.
once you break off enough of the teeth switch to a pipe wrench and a cheater bar. ;)
Megalomaniac
12-26-11, 10:33
once you break off enough of the teeth switch to a pipe wrench and a cheater bar. ;)
Would that work? I've run into issues in other applications where the pipe-wrench deformed the nut into the threads and locked said nut on tighter.
You said you were using the "tool supplied by Troy with your TRX-E"? The tooth pattern on that tool is made for the barrel nut supplied with the handguard. It does not line up correctly with a standard nut. Get a standard barrel nut socket or tool and you'll get a lot more grip on it and most likely an easier time getting it off.
Best of luck, they are a nice system and worth the fight.
Good catch. I just noticed this.
You said you were using the "tool supplied by Troy with your TRX-E"? The tooth pattern on that tool is made for the barrel nut supplied with the handguard. It does not line up correctly with a standard nut. Get a standard barrel nut socket or tool and you'll get a lot more grip on it and most likely an easier time getting it off.
Best of luck, they are a nice system and worth the fight.
You said you were using the "tool supplied by Troy with your TRX-E"? The tooth pattern on that tool is made for the barrel nut supplied with the handguard. It does not line up correctly with a standard nut. Get a standard barrel nut socket or tool and you'll get a lot more grip on it and most likely an easier time getting it off.
Best of luck, they are a nice system and worth the fight.
The troy barrel wrench has two sides to it. One side for the standard nut, and the other side for the troy nut.
Would that work? I've run into issues in other applications where the pipe-wrench deformed the nut into the threads and locked said nut on tighter.
Always has for me and is still my last resort. I spent a couple years as a plumber so their use isn't foreign to me.
The right tool for the job usually works:D The teeth on some barrel wrenches that are rail specific are just a little off from regular wrenches. I had a hell of a time with a DD Lite a little while ago. I was using an old supplied barrel wrench(supposedly)and it just wouldnt catch good. Had to borrow another one from someone else.
Kroil has worked miracles for me on guns and other things.
And I used a pipewrench on an aluminum housing, similar to an ar reciever. I wrecked the threads and the housing.
The troy barrel wrench has two sides to it. One side for the standard nut, and the other side for the troy nut.
Now there's some handy information...Thanks!
Thanks for all the input guys. Just thought I'd get back to you with the redult. I ended making a fine cut with a hacksaw along the nut. Just when I started to see the threads kinda looking up I stopped. The cut had weakend the nut to such a degree that it came off without using much force. On inspection the threads on the upper were unharmed and the Troy nut spun on like a charm. Once afain thanks for all the advice!
Robb Jensen
01-15-12, 06:29
Now there's some handy information...Thanks!
That's the old wrenches. The new one has only one side.
I took both barrel nuts out last night to try it and yes, the tool for mine (I guess a new one) ONLY fits the supplied nut. There is no provision for removing a stock barrel nut with the supplied tool from Troy. Honestly, the old tool sounds like a better option.
Good luck.
I took both barrel nuts out last night to try it and yes, the tool for mine (I guess a new one) ONLY fits the supplied nut. There is no provision for removing a stock barrel nut with the supplied tool from Troy. Honestly, the old tool sounds like a better option.
Good luck.
Though it must be added that the old Troy tool is inferior to the Armorer's Tool when it comes to removing the original nut.
Robb Jensen
01-15-12, 15:42
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/gotm4/Troywrench2.jpg
That big silver in the center is a professional grade Troy wrench. It works like a champ!
EzGoingKev
01-15-12, 17:22
That big silver in the center is a professional grade Troy wrench. It works like a champ!
Will that work on the factory nut or only on the Troy nut?
skullworks
12-20-12, 03:46
Just thought I'd revive this thread instead of creating a new one; I swapped handguards on my Oberland M4 a couple of days ago, and contrary to The_Swede's experience the barrel nut on mine came off with very little force. The threads were properly greased.
I now have a Troy VTAC Alpha Battlerail on there instead (even though that rail is designed to work with a standard barrel nut it was less work to just remove it to get the delta assembly off than to cut the delta assembly off as I know many will do).
http://s10.postimage.org/u7ho4jj79/Oberland_M4_Troy.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/u7ho4jj79/)
Oh, the front sight base on Oberlands ARs are not F-marked, nor are the barrels parkerized underneath the gas block.
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