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View Full Version : Troy/VTAC and rail sections, install help.



bigrobbierob
01-01-12, 19:29
This might have been covered befor but I am having a hard time finding that info through the search function.

When installing the rail sections onto a Troy/VTAC rail is it easier to install them with the forend on or off the upper receiver?

Drummer
01-01-12, 20:15
It depends. I've done it both ways with the TRX Extreme rails. Are you using a FSB or low-pro gas block? If low pro, the rail hardware may not fit over the gas block and will necessitate installation after the rail is installed. It's obviously easier to installed before hand if you can.

Failure2Stop
01-01-12, 22:05
I found it considerably easier to do it with the tube removed.

orionz06
01-01-12, 23:24
I have been unable to install much without removing the tube. You paid for the easy removal, take advantage of it.

Vgex2
01-01-12, 23:55
Tonight I found it fairly easy to install the rail sections on my Alpha Rail while still installed on the rifle. I am using the 13" rail over a shaved FSB. I used Q-tips to keep the rail section and attachment section lined up. Took about 5 mins.

bigrobbierob
01-02-12, 07:16
Thanks for the help guys.

The forend is installed onto a BCM BFH 16" mid length and has a set screwed gas block. Upper was ordered from BCM assembled that way.

Probably going to remove the forend to install the rails. Also when I remove the forend and then reinstall it should the screws holding the hand guard to the barrel nut be tightened till they touch or just retighten them to leave the same gap that BCM left.

Sorry for the rookie ass question. This is my first AR so I want to get everything right. Measure twice cut once you know.

MitchK
01-02-12, 07:29
Here's a link to the Troy instructions.

http://troyind.com/manuals/TRX-Extreme-Manual.pdf

Don't tighten the tabs until they touch!!

I would try to install the rails without removing the handguard. You need to find a tool to hold the backing plate while you tighten the screws but it's not that hard to do.

bigrobbierob
01-02-12, 07:47
Mitch,

Thanks for the link. I know that the whole do/don't tighten till they touch deal has been beaten to death here but I just wanted to make sure.

I've got some LONG round files in my tool kit from when I tinkered with my 1911's that I will try out as holders for the back plates.

Robb Jensen
01-02-12, 08:36
When installing rail sections on Troy and Troy/VTAC tubes I use a LaRue optic mount wrench pushed through the side of the FF/tube/rail to hold the backing plates in position to get the screws started.

jjw
01-02-12, 18:54
putting on rails on v-tac:

i use a set of 12" surgical hemostats/forceps,. can clamp the nut and hold it till u are screwing the bolt in. works well
if u have the gas block in place, u kinda have to wiggle around it. easier as i only use vltor gas blocks or factory

good luck

bigrobbierob
01-05-12, 11:44
Well thank you guys for all the help and tips. Went ahead and just pulled the tube to bolt everything down where I wanted it to be.

Gun is near complete just need my optic now. Will post pics in the pic thread when it's finished. Thanks again.

ra2bach
01-05-12, 13:11
putting on rails on v-tac:

i use a set of 12" surgical hemostats/forceps,. can clamp the nut and hold it till u are screwing the bolt in. works well
if u have the gas block in place, u kinda have to wiggle around it. easier as i only use vltor gas blocks or factory

good luck

sounds like this works well. I used an allen key just big enough to be inserted through adjacent holes and then rotated to apply pressure to the nut. this works very well but it kind of helps to have three hands...

bigrobbierob
01-05-12, 16:09
sounds like this works well. I used an allen key just big enough to be inserted through adjacent holes and then rotated to apply pressure to the nut. this works very well but it kind of helps to have three hands...

This is pretty much the method I used.