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chef8489
01-07-12, 11:45
Well as I have posted I am doing a multi caliber build. I am doing a 6.8 and 5.56 build as m4 clones.I will post all my questions in here as they come up but here is a list of what I am thinking of going with.

Spikes lower with pirate

spikes enhanced lpk

Not decided on buffer tube, buffer, or stock as of yet but thinking of lmt sopmod, rra operator, or magpul moe or ctr.

BCM upper either 14.5 or 16"

BCM or cmt mpi auto bcg

BCMgunfighter medium charging handle

Arms 40 lp buis

comp m3 or m4 not sure yet and not sure if qrp or other mount. Maybe a magnifier with Larue pivot

Need advice on rails. I dont need free float and want fairly easy removal. How does the DD eazy car compare to MI #17 gen 2 and kac?

Some sort of vfg like the graphite or kac

Might do a tao1nsn for the 6.8

Need a single point sling and maybe a qd backplate.

I am open to suggestions and could use some advice.

yugotprblms
01-07-12, 16:08
Well as I have posted I am doing a multi caliber build. I am doing a 6.8 and 5.56 build as m4 clones.I will post all my questions in here as they come up but here is a list of what I am thinking of going with.

Spikes lower with pirate - I have this exact lower, it is pretty well made.

spikes enhanced lpk - Most people will recommend at least a G&R kit if you want quality, Colt would be the top. I haven't heard much about the spikes kits though.

Not decided on buffer tube, buffer, or stock as of yet but thinking of lmt sopmod, rra operator, or magpul moe or ctr. - BCM makes a great receiver extension tube, H buffer seems to be a solid choice, and you should check out the B5 sopmod. It is about half the price of the LMT, and extremely similar.

BCM upper either 14.5 or 16" - Can't go wrong with either, I got the 16" because I wanted the ability to change muzzle devices without SBRing a lower

BCM or cmt mpi auto bcg - BCM would be a great choice, they sell out quick though

BCMgunfighter medium charging handle - Also a solid choice

Arms 40 lp buis

comp m3 or m4 not sure yet and not sure if qrp or other mount. Maybe a magnifier with Larue pivot

Need advice on rails. I dont need free float and want fairly easy removal. How does the DD eazy car compare to MI #17 gen 2 and kac?

Some sort of vfg like the graphite or kac

Might do a tao1nsn for the 6.8 - Look into this more, it seems like there are better choices

Need a single point sling and maybe a qd backplate. - Not sure why you "need" one, but check out the IKICKHIPPIES SLAP plate. Also, the Magpul MS3 seems like it will be popular, as well as convertible to two point.

I am open to suggestions and could use some advice.

My thoughts in red.

rob_s
01-07-12, 16:11
what is your intended use for this gun(s)? What is your prior experience with the AR15 family of weapons? What other firearms do you have experience with and in what applications? How did you arrive at this list of parts?

chef8489
01-07-12, 18:26
what is your intended use for this gun(s)? What is your prior experience with the AR15 family of weapons? What other firearms do you have experience with and in what applications? How did you arrive at this list of parts?

Prior experience was 10 years in combat arms mos and 1 year with civilian with several deployments. Other firearms I have experience with includes all us small arms and many others due to MOS. I have experience with ccw and usually choose sig p220 carry, p229, h&k usp compact 45, or springfield xd 45 and 40.

Reasoning for this would be practice and 3 gun and personal defense. I am considering picking up another contract but 2006 was last deployment and bit rusty in shooting. Last civilian ar was a rra entry tactical.

I did a bit of research for the list but not extensive for the lpk. The upper parts are as close to what I am familiar with and within my budget. I wanted to build this ar and that is why I chose not to go with colt. I will be purchasing the parts from Bravo company, Brownells, gunbroker, and maybe a few more places. I dont have all the tools to build the upper and that is why I am purchasing a bcm upper.

rob_s
01-07-12, 19:14
Awesome. As you can imagine quite a few people post an extensive list without any idea what/why and zero background.

I know you said you don't need a free-float, but IMO it's the way to go. Not because of any benchrest reasons but because it allows you to brace the gun against barricades, walls, etc. without impacting the barrel and therefore impacting the POI.

If this is your one and only AR, I would suggest the 16" mid-length over the 14.5" unless you're willing to register as an SBR to save the 1.5". Pinning the FH, or whatever you put out there, isn't worth the trouble IMO.

Take a look at the Aimpoint PRO, best value out there in an RDS.

Noveske receiver endplate single point sling mount. One goes on all my guns now. But I wouldn't use a single-point sling on a 16" AR either.

Not a fan of ARMS anything. Take a look at Troy if you want the best folding site, or Magpul MBUS if you want to save some coin.

chef8489
01-07-12, 19:31
Would you recommend a 3 point for a 16" for transition drills? I used a 3 point extensively in my prior experience but found it got in the way at times. I was thinking a 1 point clipped to my chest rig or plate carrier would be a bit easier and not get in the way like the 3 point did. If you have a different suggestion for this I am all ears.

As far as free float I will consider it, but never needed it in the past at 400 meters and closer.

I will look at the aimpoint pro and compare it to the m68 and tao1nsn we used and figure out if it is comparable. Would a 3x be a better solution than a tao1nsn or other acog? I will be using the 6.8 to hunt and around here in Texas a long rang shot is not likely( Fort Hood area) Just moved here within past few months.

I used the arms 40l on my rra and had no issues and actually liked it. I liked the spring loaded aspect and never had an issue with shifted zero or quality. I wish the magpul was metal but I will take a look at it. What makes the Troy better than the arms?


Awesome. As you can imagine quite a few people post an extensive list without any idea what/why and zero background.

I know you said you don't need a free-float, but IMO it's the way to go. Not because of any benchrest reasons but because it allows you to brace the gun against barricades, walls, etc. without impacting the barrel and therefore impacting the POI.

If this is your one and only AR, I would suggest the 16" mid-length over the 14.5" unless you're willing to register as an SBR to save the 1.5". Pinning the FH, or whatever you put out there, isn't worth the trouble IMO.

Take a look at the Aimpoint PRO, best value out there in an RDS.

Noveske receiver endplate single point sling mount. One goes on all my guns now. But I wouldn't use a single-point sling on a 16" AR either.

Not a fan of ARMS anything. Take a look at Troy if you want the best folding site, or Magpul MBUS if you want to save some coin.

rob_s
01-07-12, 19:42
The PRO is like the old M68 but $450. The M4 is the current M68 and significantly more expensive for no real functional benefit for most shooters.

Not a three point, a 2-point like the Blue Force Gear Vickers Combat Applications Sling (http://www.blueforcegear.com/vickers-combat-applications-sling/) (VCAS), or the Viking Tactics Sling (http://www.vikingtactics.com/slings_original.html) (VTAC).

chef8489
01-07-12, 19:58
Is it 2 moa or 4 moa like the old m68?

I will look into a 2 point sling. I did not even think about Larry when I though about slings. He is over off Ramsey street in Fayetteville. I will drop in and say hi next time I am at Bragg to see my Daughter. Is it pretty easy to use qd on the Vickers? Would you recomend one over the other? Mount a qd on the endplate and one on the rail.

rob_s
01-07-12, 20:15
Yes, you can use the QD on the VCAS, which is the one I prefer.

I tend to attach mine at the rear of the handguard near the barrel nut on the left side and on the stock on the right side.

The PRO is 2 MOA.

chef8489
01-07-12, 20:45
Yes, you can use the QD on the VCAS, which is the one I prefer.

I tend to attach mine at the rear of the handguard near the barrel nut on the left side and on the stock on the right side.

The PRO is 2 MOA.

The pro looks like a winner. Comes with a qrp mount. Hopefully I can find it when it comes time to purchase optics.
I will pick up the vcas as well as a tapco sling and figure out which I prefer and how I prefer to mount for drills and stick with it. Probably give the other away or use it for wifes build. Apreciate the advice and will keep everyone posted in this thread as build goes along. I need to loose some weight before I accept a contract again as I am pretty out of shape and wife wants me back in reg and tip top before deploying again.

Tannis
01-07-12, 21:23
The pro looks like a winner. Comes with a qrp mount. Hopefully I can find it when it comes time to purchase optics.
I will pick up the vcas as well as a tapco sling and figure out which I prefer and how I prefer to mount for drills and stick with it. Probably give the other away or use it for wifes build. Apreciate the advice and will keep everyone posted in this thread as build goes along. I need to loose some weight before I accept a contract again as I am pretty out of shape and wife wants me back in reg and tip top before deploying again.

Go to GG&G for optic/mount packages. They usually have some pretty good deals.

As for slings, I use a 215 Gear single point sling. The quick detach mechanism is amazing. I would recommend checking it out.

As for barrels... I find myself fighting this battle quite a bit anymore. I use a 14.5" on mine. There is no difficulty installing or removing anything due to the use of a two-piece gas block. I don't know what people in general hold against them but I've had zero issues. Changing rails and barrels are very fast and a snap. It didn't really take any brain power to line up the port holes either. I say get what you want to suit you. There are parts out there to make it possible.

discreet
01-07-12, 23:40
Lots of good words about http://www.gandrtactical.com on this forum. Probably the first place I'd go to for anything, being G is pretty damn active on here, and looking at his replies, one hell of a stand up guy also.

Also, the whole ARMS ordeal sight wise is hit or miss. Just like some people on here hate Troy sights, BUT, ARMS has one more variable to screw up on than Troy does, and it's their spring system. Although they were basically the company Troy Arms and Magpul jacked the design from in the beginning. Not a bad design, but you will realize you can just flip a troy up easier by hand, than pushing a button on some Magpul sights or ARMS sights.

Wondering why your so set on your Spikes lower though. Unless you already have it, there are much better companies to purchase from (such as BCM). Remember it's not about the deal or anything, it's about supporting people who truly make this industry better, and I have to hand it to BCM on this one.

LPK for me is DD (just due to their customer service), but from what I've seen LMT holds up with Colt in this arena. Don't think I've seen one bad thing about the LMT stuff on here.

rob_s
01-08-12, 05:55
Go to GG&G for optic/mount packages. They usually have some pretty good deals.
GG&G is outdated and obsolete in general. With companies like Larue, ADM, and Bobro around there is zero reason to use GG&G.


As for barrels... I find myself fighting this battle quite a bit anymore. I use a 14.5" on mine. There is no difficulty installing or removing anything due to the use of a two-piece gas block. I don't know what people in general hold against them but I've had zero issues. Changing rails and barrels are very fast and a snap. It didn't really take any brain power to line up the port holes either. I say get what you want to suit you. There are parts out there to make it possible.
possible? yes. two-piece gas block? major trade-off.

Having a 14.5" barrel with a pinned device makes it harder to change handguards and (real) gas blocks than having a 16" with an un-pinned device. This is a statement of fact.

chef8489
01-08-12, 06:39
I chose the spikes lower because it is milspec, like the roll marks, and has a lifetime warranty. It was already ordered and will suit my needs. The lpk was thrown in for free so I thought I would give it a try.I can replace parts if I need to later on. My goal right now is to get it up and running for as little as I can with quality parts.

Sent from my Htc Thunderbolt using Tapatalk pro.

rob_s
01-08-12, 06:51
Unlike many here I think you'll be fine with the Spike's. I'm not a fan of their marketing, or their rollmarks, but that's got nothing to do with the quality of the product.

These days a lower is a lower. Years ago we had to worry about cast lowers, lowers with pin holes out of true or in the wrong places, etc. Today those concerns are virtually non-existent. Many people don't realize that lowers are only coming from a very few places with forges big enough to make them. Then they go to companies that actually machine them down to 100% lowers and there are relatively few of them as well.

Your Spikes lower, and parts, should do you fine and if something is wrong with either you'll know either upon assembly or within the first couple of hundred rounds. People around here need to get over the Spikes thing already.

Tannis
01-08-12, 09:40
GG&G is outdated and obsolete in general. With companies like Larue, ADM, and Bobro around there is zero reason to use GG&G.


possible? yes. two-piece gas block? major trade-off.

Having a 14.5" barrel with a pinned device makes it harder to change handguards and (real) gas blocks than having a 16" with an un-pinned device. This is a statement of fact.

Please substantiate your statements of "fact". First, on the gas-block, what trade off? I've found none. As a matter of fact, I've found it to be more useful than any single piece because, well, I have more options especially when it comes to pinned/welded muzzle devices. Period.

And as for GG&G, unless you've had some god-awful experience with them, why would you discount the company entirely? You said nothing regarding optics or mounts. You merely pointed your finger at the company. So, unless you really have a valid point on either topic...

yugotprblms
01-08-12, 09:48
Please substantiate your statements of "fact". First, on the gas-block, what trade off? I've found none. As a matter of fact, I've found it to be more useful than any single piece because, well, I have more options especially when it comes to pinned/welded muzzle devices. Period.

And as for GG&G, unless you've had some god-awful experience with them, why would you discount the company entirely? You said nothing regarding optics or mounts. You merely pointed your finger at the company. So, unless you really have a valid point on either topic...

I think he was getting at since the muzzle device would be pinned on a 14.5" barrel if you don't SBR it, then there is virtually no way to remove a single piece gas block/fsb/whatever from it, also complicating issues with hand guard installation/removal. If I want to remove my FSB from my barrel, I have to remove my muzzle device, no other way to get it off.

rob_s
01-08-12, 09:48
Please substantiate your statements of "fact". First, on the gas-block, what trade off? I've found none. As a matter of fact, I've found it to be more useful than any single piece because, well, I have more options especially when it comes to pinned/welded muzzle devices. Period.

And as for GG&G, unless you've had some god-awful experience with them, why would you discount the company entirely? You said nothing regarding optics or mounts. You merely pointed your finger at the company. So, unless you really have a valid point on either topic...

Are you posting to help someone else with their new project or to defend your own?

pinned gas blocks are more secure than set-screw, clamp on, or other methods requiring threaded connections. This, again, is a statement of fact. If yours is secure enough for you, then by all means motor on. But it's not the most secure. You've presented your argument for the OP (if you use a less secure gas block mounting system you can negate, to some extent, the difficulties in changing handguards with a pinned-on muzzle device) and I've presented mine (you can avoid all that nonsense entirely and have a more secure gas block mounting simply by going with a 16" barrel and non-pinned device).

GG&G products on the whole are outdated designs, and their new(er) designs are... odd to say the least. There are better (more secure, more easily removed, lighter, less expensive, etc.) options available from other companies. GG&G, last time I checked, doesn't make the optic so all we are evaluating form them is mounts in this case.

Tannis
01-08-12, 09:52
Is this about helping someone else with their new project or you defending yours?

pinned gas blocks are more secure than set-screw, clamp on, or other methods requiring threaded connections. This, again, is a statement of fact. If yours is secure enough for you, then by all means motor on. But it's not the most secure. You've presented your argument for the OP (if you use a less secure gas block mounting system you can negate, to some extent, the difficulties in changing handguards with a pinned-on muzzle device) and I've presented mine (you can avoid all that nonsense entirely and have a more secure gas block mounting simply by going with a 16" barrel and non-pinned device).

GG&G products on the whole are outdated designs, and their new(er) designs are... odd to say the least. There are better (more secure, more easily removed, lighter, less expensive, etc.) options available from other companies. GG&G, last time I checked, doesn't make the optic so all we are evaluating form them is mounts in this case.

Anything written in forums should always be about helping others. I was merely asking you to define your statements for that purpose. I couldn't care less if you like what I do with my builds. And the follow on write-up were just what I wanted to see. Very good cases. Thanks for adding that.

dpaqu
01-08-12, 14:04
Prior experience was 10 years in combat arms mos and 1 year with civilian with several deployments.

Thanks for your service. Always cool to see someone who has been there done that and is still humble enough to ask questions. FWIW rob_s has a squared away approach to evaluating gear.

Have you done much 3 gun? Is this something that is going to really be a 3gun rifle that may be called upon for self defense.

chef8489
01-08-12, 14:36
Thanks for your service. Always cool to see someone who has been there done that and is still humble enough to ask questions. FWIW rob_s has a squared away approach to evaluating gear.

Have you done much 3 gun? Is this something that is going to really be a 3gun rifle that may be called upon for self defense.

I have not done any 3 gun as of get but I am really interested in it.

Sent from my Htc Thunderbolt using Tapatalk pro.

chef8489
01-08-12, 15:11
Would I see any benefit going from a h buffer to a h1 or h2 in a 16" carbine?

Toyoland66
01-08-12, 18:46
H= H1, your options are H, H2, and H3 just to clarify.

It depends on the upper, not all gas ports are drilled the same size (depending on manufacturer). The H is a good starting point.

devinsdad
01-09-12, 12:15
There are a lot of brand lovers on this site, I'd suggest you put hands on before buying anything, especially if you have any intention to take this into harms way. Read thru the posts on this site and check others as well. There is a wealth of information on the AR and all the products availiable for it.

discreet
01-11-12, 01:03
There are a lot of brand lovers on this site, I'd suggest you put hands on before buying anything, especially if you have any intention to take this into harms way. Read thru the posts on this site and check others as well. There is a wealth of information on the AR and all the products availiable for it.

Putting hands on something is different from breaking it down. SO, in such case I recommend he reads everything on this site, then breaks the gun down he's holding or looking at. Anyone can hold a gun, but very few can pull the bolt out, see just what's wrong with it, or fine with it, look over other parts on the gun etc and then come to a conclusion.

Also checking with other sites? What barfcom or the uninformed road? I'm yet to come across another site with as much (AND ACCURATE) information as this one.

Remember, out of "all available products" for the ar-15, probably 5% are worth a damn. This forum isn't about "brand whoring", it's about brands that have proven themselves to actually be worthwhile for the serious/defensive shooter (or even military/competition shooters). I had a bad insight on the sight about "brand bias" here, until I actually started really digging into things, and now, everything posted on here, especially by mods, vendors/mfg's, or regular members seems to make more sense than ever.

Btw, not to push others away from other sites, but man, name a site as good or accurate as this one, and you get a golden cookie. I have other sites I like for the specific caliber of guns I like, IE 5.7, 9mm etc, but any other AR sites are pretty much jokes. Other forums which cover all like THR are jokes as well, with a bunch of old, grumpy, obsolete, post war veterans from the 60's to the 90's who really don't know squat about the AR other than their gun "owned x amount of soldiers back in 'nam' or 'desert storm'"

Iraqgunz
01-11-12, 02:47
Just like there are those who refuse to believe that some companies actually produce substandard AR's and gear.

For those who shoot 50 rounds a month into the dirt, no problem. For those who take their weapons seriously, it's a problem.


There are a lot of brand lovers on this site, I'd suggest you put hands on before buying anything, especially if you have any intention to take this into harms way. Read thru the posts on this site and check others as well. There is a wealth of information on the AR and all the products availiable for it.

chef8489
01-11-12, 02:59
Putting hands on something is different from breaking it down. SO, in such case I recommend he reads everything on this site, then breaks the gun down he's holding or looking at. Anyone can hold a gun, but very few can pull the bolt out, see just what's wrong with it, or fine with it, look over other parts on the gun etc and then come to a conclusion.

Also checking with other sites? What barfcom or the uninformed road? I'm yet to come across another site with as much (AND ACCURATE) information as this one.

Remember, out of "all available products" for the ar-15, probably 5% are worth a damn. This forum isn't about "brand whoring", it's about brands that have proven themselves to actually be worthwhile for the serious/defensive shooter (or even military/competition shooters). I had a bad insight on the sight about "brand bias" here, until I actually started really digging into things, and now, everything posted on here, especially by mods, vendors/mfg's, or regular members seems to make more sense than ever.

Btw, not to push others away from other sites, but man, name a site as good or accurate as this one, and you get a golden cookie. I have other sites I like for the specific caliber of guns I like, IE 5.7, 9mm etc, but any other AR sites are pretty much jokes. Other forums which cover all like THR are jokes as well, with a bunch of old, grumpy, obsolete, post war veterans from the 60's to the 90's who really don't know squat about the AR other than their gun "owned x amount of soldiers back in 'nam' or 'desert storm'"

I am building my weapon so it is the parts I am selecting. I know military grade weapons and that knowledge I am trying to take over into my civilian weapons. I appreciate all the help you guys have supplied and yet to have found real fault with the spikes lower nor the enhanced lpk. I have decided to go with a single stage for now and if I feel I need it later upgrade to a 2 stage. I know the KAC rail system quite well, but have yet to try out the dd or the Mi I am looking at. Not a lot of places around Fort Hood that I know of to get my hands on them. LaRue is about an hour from here so I might be able to get down there and check out their products. I am not that familiar with the area and if anyone else lives around here and could give me advice on where to look and shoot I would appreciate it.

rob_s
01-11-12, 05:04
I am building my weapon so it is the parts I am selecting. I know military grade weapons and that knowledge I am trying to take over into my civilian weapons.

The problem is this, and I see this a LOT...

For guys whose only experience is with issued guns, all they know are issued guns. If you didn't read it on the internet, would you know what the barrel steel was on your issued gun? Bolt steel? bolt and barrel testing method? There are a whole host of other points as well. And if you did, you are the exception BY FAR not the rule. This goes for mil, LE, whatever. The vast majority of guys who are issued guns for work know only that gun, and know relatively little about that gun, and in general it does not take much to be seen as an SME in those circles. They *may* know how to use it and be very proficient in it's use, but there's generally very little reason for them to know and understand the minutiae, but the minutiae is what often matters on commercial guns because that is where the lesser companies cut their corners.

You mentioned getting down to Larue, and I would strongly suggest that. You might just get to bypass all of this and get yourself one of their complete guns! :D

chef8489
01-11-12, 05:45
I agree with you and I have read quite a bit before I have posted. I have done a lot of research in the past when I was purchasing my RRA and was active on several forums. Since that time the civilian companies have multiplied like bunnies and that is why I posted asking questions. I don't want to buy a complete gun. I want to move on from shooter to builder and gunsmith. I feel this is a good step in the direction. There is a vast amount of knowledge out there. Issue I am finding is there is so much conflicting information on parts and it is hard to weed through the fanboys and haters to the true knowledgeable un-biased gunsmiths or experts. You get some saying most forged lowers are the same and come from a few mfg and others say pay the extra 200 on a lower because of a name. I am getting to the point where I buy something I feel is going to be good and put it through the tests. Action parts I do a lot of research on as with uppers. I am going BCM because the specs, and the praise I hear. Mil spec is not the end all but it is a start. The contract goes to the lowest bidder that can maintain the specs. Is that a bad thing? On some things yes, but it is still a standard to start with. I will be using usgi standard ammo for the most part but will dabble with match grade ammo and that is why I will only settle for mil spec or better. I listen to the masses and decide what to use with my judgment and experience. We all make mistakes and learn. I feel that makes us better, but if we listen to the true knowledgeable, then the mistakes are smaller and less dangerous.

rob_s
01-11-12, 06:44
I agree with you re: fanboy/hater, but you can use that to your advantage.

First you need to understand where it matters to spend money (barrels) and where it typically doesn't (lowers). Then you need to understand the limits of where spending money actually means "better" ("milspec" bolt) vs. a waste of money (whale jizz coatings on bolts).

Then you can use the fanboy/hater thing to your advantage. How many "haters" do you see of BCM, DD, Colt, or Noveske? Once you weed out the "you're only paying for a name" morons. There's a reason for that, and it's not just because their "fanboys" are more rabid. The loudest fanboys tend to be of the most sub-standard products because they can't separate their ego from their purchase and they NEED to shriek loudest to drown out reality. Cognitive dissonance.

DD, Noveske, BCM, and Colt can afford to largely sit back and let their products do the talking. Those companies that do not meet those standards have to make it up somewhere, and marketing is typically where.

The sad thing about "milspec" is exactly what you said, it's the minimum standard. What is truly pathetic is how many companies can't even meet the minimum standard and prefer to mislead, and even outright lie to, their customers and potential customers to cover up that fact.

Something to keep in mind re: any specification is that it's going to include:
material
assembly
dimensions
testing

what most companies mean when they say "we're milspec" is dimensions only, and even that is a lie because they'll us a 1.17" OD receiver extension instead of a 1.14".

I prefer not to use the term "milspec" at all because companies like these have made it meaningless.

The good news is that even the crappiest ARs tend to have a relatively low failure rate, and outside of the few people that are putting thousands of rounds a year on their guns not many will see an actual failure. I see people say things all the time like "I don't see many xyz brand guns fail" but what they miss is that virtually none of the owners of xyz brand are getting out there and shooting the damn things.

devinsdad
01-11-12, 13:43
You are looking wayyyy to deep into my post. When the op said he was looking at a Spikes lower, by the end of the page he was being advised against it, not for poor quality...but for industry support reasons? When he said he was considering "getting another contract" I take that as armed escort/security in the mid-east, as that area has a large need for that type of individual. That was also my rational for touching rather than reading about it. I said nothing about any certain brand, but you took it as that. My point was not to discount any brand without holding, shooting etc. that item before disreguarding. As for other sites, Arfcom, THR...no. Try ACTS, IDPA and the many availiable 3-gun sites. As these are driven for "combat shooting", and the OP said he was rusty, those would be a good place to start. Most advanced combat and shooting tecniques come from competition Therefore training there, or reading into the equipment that functions well in that environment, would be another good place for information.

discreet
01-11-12, 21:37
You are looking wayyyy to deep into my post. When the op said he was looking at a Spikes lower, by the end of the page he was being advised against it, not for poor quality...but for industry support reasons? When he said he was considering "getting another contract" I take that as armed escort/security in the mid-east, as that area has a large need for that type of individual. That was also my rational for touching rather than reading about it. I said nothing about any certain brand, but you took it as that. My point was not to discount any brand without holding, shooting etc. that item before disreguarding. As for other sites, Arfcom, THR...no. Try ACTS, IDPA and the many availiable 3-gun sites. As these are driven for "combat shooting", and the OP said he was rusty, those would be a good place to start. Most advanced combat and shooting tecniques come from competition Therefore training there, or reading into the equipment that functions well in that environment, would be another good place for information.

Wait, so now this is about spikes lower? It was me, who in a nice way asked him why he chose spikes. I wasn't putting his decision down, I was just curious to why he did such.

Now, on your comment, that is what the replies have kind of been about. We are replying to you, with your comment...

"There are a lot of brand lovers on this site, I'd suggest you put hands on before buying anything, especially if you have any intention to take this into harms way. Read thru the posts on this site and check others as well. There is a wealth of information on the AR and all the products availiable for it."

in the end. It's nothing about the OP. Sure it's a bit off topic from the OP of the thread, but it's replying to basically what you were trying to convince him to believe. IMO the replies in the last page for the most part have just been backing up the forum, and people on it. "Brand lovers" IMO is another way to say "fanboy" imo.