m&p 15 T stuck round

[Ray1976]

I have a M&P 15T that I love. It has a Bushell Holographic Sight mounted and does great.

I was out Saturday practicing and got a Bloom Bloom real fast and a click. Ejected the round looked ok. Single feed for a while. Later the same thing happen again and this time the round is stuck in barrel and has not been fired.

This has happen to me a month ago (had to replace the barrel last time). I had a trigger job (parts replaced) 6 months ago and I do not think it is the ammo.

Seem to me if it was the ammo it would have stuck the fired case in the barrel.

I NEED HELP. Any ideas?

Ray

[mkmckinley]

"I was out Saturday practicing and got a Bloom Bloom real fast and a click" is material for a different thread.

Are you saying you have a live round stuck in your chamber? If that's the case something tells me you need to see a gunsmith. Don't forget to take the BCG out of the upper receiver and leave it out.

Is there still a rim on the case? Will the bolt close on the round? What kind of ammo were you using?

[Ray1976]

the rim is fine. it is reloaded ammo but everyone goes in a head space gauge. looks like if it was ammo that the fired case would have stuck. It felt like it went full auto for two rounds and then the problem both times.

[ralph]

Who did the trigger job? Sounds like a trip to the gunsmith is in order..ETA: Who reloaded the ammo? and when you say the ammo goes in a head space gage, you're referring to a case gage correct? if so, you DO know how to use it, correct?

[Ray1976]

I used a Wilson 223 gauge that allows you to drop the round in to make sure it has been re-sized.

Do not understand why ammo is a concern if it fit in the gauge? Seems odd to me that the AR double fired both times before the problems.

[Ray1976]

I would like to know how to deactivate a primer so I can get the round out of the barrel.

[ralph]

I used a Wilson 223 gauge that allows you to drop the round in to make sure it has been re-sized.

Do not understand why ammo is a concern if it fit in the gauge? Seems odd to me that the AR double fired both times before the problems.

That's why I asked..There's more to using a case gage than dropping it in and out to see if it's been resized. A case gage will tell you not only if the case is correctly resized, but also if the OAL of the case itself is too long or not. It is entirely possible to push the shoulder of the case down too far, and allow it to chamber too deeply when resizing rifle brass..This is where the case gage comes in.. On the back of the gage you'll notice a "step" milled slightly over the hole where you drop the case in, when a case is correctly sized it should be below the top of the gage and ABOVE the lower step..if it's below the lower step, this could cause problems.Remember, that when the die is set up for say, a bunch of lake city brass, The die MAY need adjusted when you start sizing say, some PMC brass. In your case, it sounds like the rifle doubled, and then chambered a round that possibly wasn't resized correctly, and jammed it into the chamber too far..Who reloaded the ammo? Did they check the OAL of the cases before loading them?Are the cases sized correctly? And Who did your trigger work? If the rifle is doubling, then something's wrong,period. Take it to a 'smith to get the round out...If you're doing the reloading, then check your sizing die, and check the cases OAL..While the rifle's at the 'smith have him look at the trigger/hammer engagement surfaces..If it's been doubling, I'd seriously consider replacing both the hammer and trigger, and get you money back from whoever did the "trigger job" because it sounds like they screwed up..

[Ray1976]

I did make sure the cases were not to long. But I am reloading both Lake City and PMC. The trigger job was a Kit but will go back to the smith. I think the problem there is the trigger spring to light and my finger to close. I brought 1k of the russian stuff yesterday to make sure it works.

I was having problems earlier and corrected my dies. would just like to not worry about this

[ralph]

I did make sure the cases were not to long. But I am reloading both Lake City and PMC. The trigger job was a Kit but will go back to the smith. I think the problem there is the trigger spring to light and my finger to close. I brought 1k of the russian stuff yesterday to make sure it works.

I was having problems earlier and corrected my dies. would just like to not worry about this

I've ran both L.C. and PMC, and did'nt need to adjust MY dies..They fit in the case gage just fine..Now, when you say you were having problems and corrected your dies, Did you load any of this brass before you caught it? and did any of this get mixed in any of your other ammo? You do know that once the shoulder is pushed down too far, those cases are scrap...I'd also reconsider the trigger job..If this rifle is intended for HD/SD/SHTF the last thing you want is a trigger that loses adjustment or needs attention, starts doubling etc, suggest you go back to stock trigger, or Buy a Geissele, They're not cheap, But they don't need constant attention either,(non adjustable) install once, put a small amount of grease on contact surfaces once in a while, and drive on.

[nineteenkilo]

Do so at your own peril, but many thousands of live rounds have been tapped from chambers using a simple cleaning rod. Use a soft faced hammer and brass rod. You should be g2g. Be sure and inspect the stuck round, the barrel throat, the bolt assembly paying special attention to the bolt face.

On the round itself, check for pin strike, extraction marks that appear 'smudged' in the brass, or a crushed case shoulder.

Look for small brass shavings that could have ground off of other rounds causing the malf from a pile of poorly reloaded/poorly sized ammo. Such shavings often cause sear issues and could have led to the burst before malf.

I'm sure IG will have better advice than me.

[Mac5.56]

Was that written in English? I honestly can't tell.

[nineteenkilo]

Was there something in particular you didn't understand? Which part was unclear? I wasn't deliberately trying to be obtuse.

[devinsdad]

Had the same problem using early laquer coated russian fodder. A simple tap with a cleaning rod popped the round free. No big deal really.

[indawire]

The earlier question about deactivating the primer. Stand the bbl on the muzzle end and put some Kroll down the bbl and let it sit. For how long- till you cant' stand it anymore. Is it guanteed? No but it's better than nothing IMO. And for heavens sake if you do tap it out clamp the bbl in something pointed away from anything fragile and use a driver that keeps you away from the business end :bad:

[JSantoro]

Was there something in particular you didn't understand? Which part was unclear? I wasn't deliberately trying to be obtuse.

I'm pretty sure he's referring to the first post, not yours, and just didn't specify.

[Suwannee Tim]

Was that written in English? I honestly can't tell.

Not English, Southern I think. "Bloom, bloom" is Southern for 'bang, bang".

I think you have two problems going here Ray. One, your rifle is doubling and the other, your reloaded ammo is incorrect. I will leave it to others with more experience with ARs to offer solutions but from my meager experience I will offer that doubling can be caused by holding the pistol grip too lightly.

One thing: though it is rare for a cartridge to fire when you are pounding it out from the muzzle, it is possible. In this case the upper or rifle as the case may be can be as dangerous from the breech end as from the muzzle. I have heard of a person being killed when the case was discharged out the rear of the action at high velocity.

I disagree with the soft hammer and brass rod advice. Your rod is going to be in contact with the bullet, not the primer and your hammer is going to be banging on the rod, not the primer. Regular old cleaning rod, with a push tip if you have it, regular old hammer, stand it vertical on a table, using eye protection and reaching out at arms length, give the rod a good rap. You should orient everything as though something is coming out the front then and the back at 2,000 feet per second. There is a real good chance the primer will not be deactivated and you can't tell either way. Beating it out with a hammer and a rod is SOP. Just make sure you and any helpers are in the clear, that is, out of the line of fire, both ends, if it does go bang. Really, due to the much greater weight of the rod than the cartridge case, it is the case likely to be the greatest danger.

[Tweak]

and please do not use a tip like this
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21dBdkIfNZL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

they easily wedge between the projo and the barrel and are hell to get loose.

[nineteenkilo]

Not English, Southern I think. "Bloom, bloom" is Southern for 'bang, bang".



Lol. I guess that's why I understood it. :D

Yeah, good advice on the tip. I usually center up the hollow end of a cleaning rod on a stuck round, but you could just as easily use a brass jag.

[Suwannee Tim]

and please do not use a tip like this.....

I've never tried that. I'll try to remember not to. I have "push tips" which have threads on one end and a plain, solid, flat far end.

[Madball13]

That's why I asked..There's more to using a case gage than dropping it in and out to see if it's been resized. A case gage will tell you not only if the case is correctly resized, but also if the OAL of the case itself is too long or not. It is entirely possible to push the shoulder of the case down too far, and allow it to chamber too deeply when resizing rifle brass..This is where the case gage comes in.. On the back of the gage you'll notice a "step" milled slightly over the hole where you drop the case in, when a case is correctly sized it should be below the top of the gage and ABOVE the lower step..if it's below the lower step, this could cause problems.Remember, that when the die is set up for say, a bunch of lake city brass, The die MAY need adjusted when you start sizing say, some PMC brass. In your case, it sounds like the rifle doubled, and then chambered a round that possibly wasn't resized correctly, and jammed it into the chamber too far..Who reloaded the ammo? Did they check the OAL of the cases before loading them?Are the cases sized correctly? And Who did your trigger work? If the rifle is doubling, then something's wrong,period. Take it to a 'smith to get the round out...If you're doing the reloading, then check your sizing die, and check the cases OAL..While the rifle's at the 'smith have him look at the trigger/hammer engagement surfaces..If it's been doubling, I'd seriously consider replacing both the hammer and trigger, and get you money back from whoever did the "trigger job" because it sounds like they screwed up..

This is huge right here. I made the mistake of not knowing 100% how the gauge worked this past summer and got a few stuck cases during rapid fire strings at a service rifle match. Rounds worked fine during slow fire but not rapid. Come to find out a CH of the rim was above the lower lip and caused the rounds to jam in the chamber. I got a cleaning rod, banged out the live round from the bore and continued to shoot that day. Quick adjustment to my dies fixed the problem.

[juliomorris]

Are they small base dies if not give them a try rcbs makes them and they are recommended for autos pumps and lever actions its all i use for 556. Also be carefull when taping out a live round, make sure you remove the bcg and try the kroll trick to be on the safe side.