View Full Version : Those who use motor oil for lube...
Ok, let me state first that I have no experience using motor oil for lube. I do know a lot about motor oil though, and from what I know this TM is a bit off, what do you all make of it?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Metroliner/Moil.jpg
evilmonkey
12-19-07, 19:10
I think I'll stick to mobile 1;)
PetesTactical
12-19-07, 20:50
Moble 1 Good
Anyone tried Quaker State Q (Full Synthetic)?
Anyone tried Quaker State Q (Full Synthetic)?
I would wager that diesel oils are the best as they contain the most detergents. Something like Rotella T synthetic would be optimum.
evilmonkey
12-20-07, 00:59
Thats an interesting point! I've been wanting to try out diesel oil for that reason. I have found that mobil 1 works better then CLP but to be honest I've never tried diesel oil. Ill try it out at the machine gun shoot in a few weeks at the impact zone here in houston.
Thats an interesting point! I've been wanting to try out diesel oil for that reason. I have found that mobil 1 works better then CLP but to be honest I've never tried diesel oil. Ill try it out at the machine gun shoot in a few weeks at the impact zone here in houston.
All I know is that running Shell Rotella T in my old LT1 Trans Am sure cleaned it out! The guy had run GTX before and the Rotella had to be changed every could hundred miles for the first 1500 or so miles. Each time the filter was full of pudding consistancy sludge. It's a wonder I didn't stop up the oil pickup tube screen.
Works good for me.
I'm about 1/2 way through a quart bottle purchased in the late 1990s.
Apart from that, I will use TW25B or other lightweight grease when grease is needed.
HolyRoller
12-20-07, 11:48
I know "why" questions make people defensive and all, but why do we need detergent oil in a rifle?
Same reason it's in there for the engine, to help with deposits. Consider it to be the same as the "c" in CLP.
Used Dello 400,now use Mobil 1 .both run good and clean .
What weight oil is everyone using?
I've been running Castrol GTX synthetic 20w in 50 handguns for the past couple months...all are running the same or better than they did on CLP or RemOil.
I would wager that diesel oils are the best as they contain the most detergents. Something like Rotella T synthetic would be optimum.
FWIW I have used the Rotella T synthetic as gun oil before and it works just fine. The only problem with it is the smell for ccw guns. Currentley using 95% Mobile 1 5W 30 with 5% STP and it is a great lube for AR's and pistols.
TheGhostRider
12-22-07, 23:05
Don't laugh... but I use Walmart pure synthetic. It's low cost and seems to be holding up pretty well on the guns I've been shooting. The one thing I noticed about synthetic versus CLP is I lube up a gun, put it in the vault and a month later its still wet. CLP dries out between cleanings fairly quick.
Iraq Ninja
12-23-07, 00:56
Here is the IZ we are limited in regards to gun oil, except for what we can order from home. The PX only stocks WD40, but also has STP oil treatment for some odd reason. Anyone have experience with using this STP?
Here is the IZ we are limited in regards to gun oil, except for what we can order from home. The PX only stocks WD40, but also has STP oil treatment for some odd reason. Anyone have experience with using this STP?
I havent used the STP as a gun lube, but am familiar with the product. Is it the red or blue bottle? Both pour like thick honey and are designed as viscosity modifiers. The red has a very high detergent and additive package, the blue is just a viscosity modifier. I wouldn't use either in a weapon straight.
I'm sure you can find a quart of motor oil somewhere, if you put your mind to it.
I have used motor oil on crew served weapons primarily the M240, M2, and MK19 and have had good results with it. It worked no better or worse than LSA, and it was always available in some way shape or form. Grade and weight didn't matter, add more as needed. Most of it was 15w-40 which is what they use in most diesel trucks.
I don't think any gun comes close to reproducing the hellish chain of events that happen in a car engine, so even the cheapest motor oil should do the trick.
How is motor oil for corrosion protection?
How is motor oil for corrosion protection?
This is just my opinion, and I'm about as far from being a tech geek there is. That said i dont think there is any magic corrosion protector, and does it really matter unless your putting some collectible weapon into long term storage? If my rifle is submerged in salt water its getting shaken out and lubed as soon as possible at the very least. If the humidity causes it to get a little surface rust wipe it down. The big thing is to keep the operating system lubed with something...Empirically i can't say if motor oil x is better than gun lube y.
Don't laugh... but I use Walmart pure synthetic. It's low cost and seems to be holding up pretty well on the guns I've been shooting. The one thing I noticed about synthetic versus CLP is I lube up a gun, put it in the vault and a month later its still wet. CLP dries out between cleanings fairly quick.
The WALMART stuff is just someones elses oil with their label. I'm sure that it will works just fine.
How is motor oil for corrosion protection?
Better than that Militec 1 junk but worse than CLP. That is about the best I can put it, mediocre. If you keep the weapon lubed, you will be okay, but there are better for sure.
I have been trying a product called Friction Defense from Brownells.
This oil looks for all the world like Mobil 1 oil with some molybdenum disulfide and teflon added to decrease friction and add a measure of corrosion resistance.
It appears to be working quite well as a lubricant and isn't smoky like some of the synthetic motor oils but cost per ounce is quite a bit more expensive.
Better than that Militec 1 junk but worse than CLP. That is about the best I can put it, mediocre. If you keep the weapon lubed, you will be okay, but there are better for sure.
Why do you say Militec 1 is Junk ??
Please enlighten me. with a statement like that you must have a horror story.
Why do you say Militec 1 is Junk ??
Please enlighten me. with a statement like that you must have a horror story.
No, no horror stories from ME, I just don't like putting anything containing chlorine near my weapon and it wont do much, if anything against rust (may encourage it with that chlorine....). When I did my test the Militec 1 nail was 90% as bad as the control nail and FAR worse than any other nail.
PS. Militec 1 is also a known carcinogenic. Chlorinated Paraffins and all that have been linked to cancer in humans.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/973906/site_id/1#import
^This website will teach you more about oil and lubricants than any other I know of. Based on advice from this site I found the best oil for my LS1 powered F-body as well. I went from using 1qt every 3K miles with Mobil 1 5-30 EP (About 7.50 a qt.) to using MAYBE .5 qts every (4500 miles currently) using 0-30 German Castrol ($5.50 qt) and the small amount of metal dust (normal) on the magnet on my drain plug is cut in 1/2, although I have not sent the oil in to Blackstone for analysis or anthing official.
Robb Jensen
12-25-07, 08:38
Militec-1 is a metal conditioner to be used as a lubricant, I've used it since about 1989. If you want a protectant use something like CLP or any 'gun oil'. When the USMC (at Quantico Firepower Div) was looking at Militec (late 80's) they mixed some Militec and CLP and had good results.
Militec-1 is a metal conditioner to be used as a lubricant, I've used it since about 1989. If you want a protectant use something like CLP or any 'gun oil'. When the USMC (at Quantico Firepower Div) was looking at Militec (late 80's) they mixed some Militec and CLP and had good results.
Based on the evidence given, I will just be content with FP10. I am avoiding certain problems and giving up little to nothing in any other aspect imho.
Robb Jensen
12-25-07, 08:52
Based on the evidence given, I will just be content with FP10. I am avoiding certain problems and giving up little to nothing in any other aspect imho.
FP-10 is excellent.
My favorites are Weapon Shield, Slip2000, Machingunners Lube, Militec-1, FP10 in that order.
I use Militec 1 and CLP
What's the deal with using Motor Oil ?
Thanks for all the great info and Merry Christmas
Robb Jensen
12-25-07, 09:54
I use Militec 1 and CLP
What's the deal with using Motor Oil ?
Thanks for all the great info and Merry Christmas
It works great as a lube.
I guess I'm old school. I use gun oils in guns and motor oil in engines.
All my ARs are worth over $2K a piece, so I'm going to use the best synthetic gun oils I can. I don't salt water dive (haven't since 1983 and then not with a rifle). I'm a civilian and don't hump a rifle in the desert or jungle or whatever. I do sometimes shoot/hunt in the rain. If I don't use them for a week or so I wipe down the steel parts of my rifles with BreakFree CLP Weapon wipes. This is where I prefer a coating of Norrells Moly (on the exterior surfaces of the barrel, gas block/FSB etc.) The Norrells seals up the parkerizing preventing rust. (that's what I used on your 18" barrel and gas block Tim).
It really doesn't matter what you lube your rifle with as long as it's 'wet' (wet = dripping wet). Wet works. Some lubes will burn off more quickly than others, either way when shooting/training/competing I relube every 200 to 300 rounds.
Merry Christmas Tim and Merry Christmas to all!
Robb
Thanks for all the great information Robb.
I will be calling you later this week I'm going to start on my next AR build.
Merry Christmas
has anyone used/liked Tetra lube? I have a big bottle that I bought to use on my pistols but I'm not very sure I like it for that use. it seems to make the slide sluggish. I could be imagining that, though...
also, I asked on another thread about Eezox. anybody use that? I have a friend who will use nothing else and told me he got it from "a machinegunner" buddy of his.
What do you guys think of Mobil 1 thickened with Slick 50 grease?
Tim:confused:
Ridgerunner665
01-22-08, 17:31
+1 for Mobil 1...its easier to find and cheap enough to use alot of it...without breaking the bank.
I use Mobil 1 hear redline is pretty good also
ChristopherM4
01-22-08, 22:32
has anyone used/liked Tetra lube? I have a big bottle that I bought to use on my pistols but I'm not very sure I like it for that use. it seems to make the slide sluggish. I could be imagining that, though....
I've been running Tetra on my Bushy from day one. Its worked fine so far. I have about 2.5k through it with no cleaning. All I do is lube it before range and carbine matches. I will say that I had stopped lubing it in Sept and will say its getting very sluggish. But to be honest I didn't shoot for about a month and half so I've only put a little over 500 rounds since I stopped lubing it. It has been very sluggish so I think its time to clean it. ;)
I think after cleaning I will buy some Weaponshield after I use up my free sample. I've been using it on my 1911 with no cleaning and almost no reoiling since the summer. I have about 1.5k though since the summer and have been very happy.
Topher
Ned Christiansen
01-23-08, 00:32
I use Golden Spectro 10W40 50% synthetic on everything, every weather condition. Seems fine for the last 13 years.
Edward Hogan
01-25-08, 01:04
+1 for WallyWorld SuperTech synthetic 5w/30.
I have filled up an old LSA bottle about 3/4 full and sprayed in some Prestone Silicone lube and this seems about identical to LSA in appearance and feels like CLP.
Use the same stuff in lieu of 3 in one and gun oil, cheaper, and better in the low temps.
Thanks for the tip about diesel. I run 15w/40 synthetic, will give it a try.
Also make my own bore cleaner. Mostly #1 heating oil, some hoppes #9 for smell, some carburetor cleaner. Works great. Maybe someday I will find some banana oil which is what I heard gives Hoppes its distinctive odor. Nothing says GUNS like Hoppes.
+1 for WallyWorld SuperTech synthetic 5w/30.
I have filled up an old LSA bottle about 3/4 full and sprayed in some Prestone Silicone lube and this seems about identical to LSA in appearance and feels like CLP.
Use the same stuff in lieu of 3 in one and gun oil, cheaper, and better in the low temps.
Thanks for the tip about diesel. I run 15w/40 synthetic, will give it a try.
Also make my own bore cleaner. Mostly #1 heating oil, some hoppes #9 for smell, some carburetor cleaner. Works great. Maybe someday I will find some banana oil which is what I heard gives Hoppes its distinctive odor. Nothing says GUNS like Hoppes.
My X gf used to LOVE the smell of CLP on me when I came home from shooting/cleaning.
Me? I love the smell of fired shotgun hulls. Paper is best, but any smell great!
I've gotta confess. I just don't get it. why anyone would use a product not designed for the purpose.
obviously motor oil works great in engines because that's what it was designed for. a motor is a relatively stable and clean environment with the engine being cooled and the oil filtered to remove suspended particles before it's returned to operation. and as someone mentioned before, it is contiained in a sump with a reasonably large quantity available to do the job at hand.
motor oil is designed specifically for ONE purpose. it's obvious that there are plenty of formulations based on different engines ( auto gas, diesel, motorcycle, wet and dry clutches, manual and auto transmissions, etc.) each is formulated for different load, shear forces, viscosity, detergent needs, etc., and there are real consequences in using the wrong type of oil in an engine.
and yet these applications are MUCH more alike than using thany of these products outside of an engine, ie. on the operating systems of a rifle which has no similarity to the operating environment of an engine other than metal is being rubbed against metal. compared to simply the operating differences between engines, the difference in using it in an AR is like comparing apples to hand grenades. and yet people are still choosing to use these oils instead of a product specifically formulated for the specific job.
now, many people have used this line before, but in my case it also happens to be true - I am not a smart man. but the people who dedicate entire careers into research and development of the various gun specific lubricants are. I'm guessing that what I "know" about lubricants would only fill the tiniest part of a thimble lost underneath a workbench in the corner of the huge warehouse of knowledge they have on the subject.
so why, I ask myself, would someone still be satisfied to ignore all the precious time and research conducted and reject the products in favor of others which can't work as well for the given situation. is it because of the money???
I guess I simply don't understand why someone would pour thousands of $$$ into a firearm and then cheap out by using a product not designed to the task simply to save a few pennies. the cost of an entire weeks application of even the most expensive gun-specific lubricant is still probably less expensive than the cost of the ammunition in even one magazine.
so, I'm not picking on anyone or trying to harsh anyone's mellow here, I honestly confused. what am I missing?
I started using mobil 1 after Ned recommended using synthetic motor oils in his 1911 armorers class last year. I chose Mobil 1 since that is what I had in the garage. I think any synthetic engine oil would work well. I use the 0-40.
It doesn't seem to gum up like some of the other CLP's I've used in the past
mike benedict
01-26-08, 07:08
I don't use motor oil I use Echo bar and chain oil. I have never found anything better. I stays on an AR bolt and doesn't burn off even on full auto fire.
...that's funny...
I use the Stihl bar oil...it comes in summer-warm grade and winter-cold...doesn't take much either...
After that I use some Tetra or whatever is close for touch-ups...http://emoticons4u.com/smoking/rauch06.gif
general_purpose
01-26-08, 10:35
Here is the IZ we are limited in regards to gun oil, except for what we can order from home. The PX only stocks WD40, but also has STP oil treatment for some odd reason. Anyone have experience with using this STP?
I don't use WD40, I hear that is is not too good for gun storage.
I did read that in a pinch you can find a motor vehicle and get oil off the dip stick to keep your weapon lubed.
I don't use motor oil I use Echo bar and chain oil. I have never found anything better. I stays on an AR bolt and doesn't burn off even on full auto fire.
Hi Mike.
sorry to belabor this point guys, but I gotta ask - you say you "have never found anything better."
what does that mean? does it mean that your gun will function properly at that shooting session, no matter what you use, so you might as well use the cheapest stuff you can find?
how much do you shoot and how much motor oil or other lube do you buy per year?
or do you mean that it performs BETTER than the gun-specific lubricants? if so, that would be very interesting indeed.
it may be true - that an expensive lube is not needed to keep a gun running but how about long term? have you noticed any decreased life of components or firearm? how many guns have you had to rebuild or replace?
and btw, I'm certainly no expert on any of this stuff, just recently becoming interested in the AR platform after years of long gun and pistol shooting, but to me, CLP is not what I consider a "gun specific lubricant". I believe it's a convenience or "field-expedient" product capable of doing what you need in a pinch, but not optimal. I still use different products for cleaning and lubing, although I believe a proper lube IS a protectant and rust inhibitor.
Please don't misunderstand, I'm not criticizing. but as a newb to AR's I'm trying to sort through the common but factually incorrect practices, and the ones that have actual merit - fer instance - I have heard of some people who actually think shaving cream is a superior gun cleaner...
If you are willing to spend the money you would be hard pressed to find a better lube for an AR/M16 than LaRue Machine gunners lube , I also belive Slip 2000 (still have a small bottle somewhere)is superb. that said I can not tell any differance with them and Mobil . so if you want piece of mind and have the $$$$ just get the LaRue machine gunners lube or the Slip 2000 and you will have a brand name gun lube that is proven . as for me (cheap SOB that I a'm ) I'm useing Mobil 1 and spending my money on more ammo . :D
If you are willing to spend the money you would be hard pressed to find a better lube for an AR/M16 than LaRue Machine gunners lube , I also belive Slip 2000 (still have a small bottle somewhere)is superb. that said I can not tell any differance with them and Mobil . so if you want piece of mind and have the $$$$ just get the LaRue machine gunners lube or the Slip 2000 and you will have a brand name gun lube that is proven . as for me (cheap SOB that I a'm ) I'm useing Mobil 1 and spending my money on more ammo . :D
well said...
How is motor oil for corrosion protection?
I used to have a 870P 12ga, Sig 226, and AKM clone that would all rust like crazy; I switched from CLP to motor oil and it helped quite a bit. It doesn't dry out, but you can cook it off if you shoot a lot.
ridgerunner70
03-24-12, 22:17
Has anyone ever used cutters oil like what machinest use on big drills and lathes.
steelonsteel
03-24-12, 23:59
I've been using mobil 1 fully synthetic for a while, but I'm aso experimenting with royal purple. So far, I've been extremey happy and have never had a "lube related" failure.
Mobil 1 works well and is relatively inexpensive. Ive currently been using Rotella T6 synthetic and it does great also.
Fwiw Im a fan of militec too
http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/p_100001417_1.jpg
Has anyone used Lubriplate FMO 350-AW oil and how did it work out?
Has anyone ever used cutters oil like what machinest use on big drills and lathes.
http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/3834/15209d1247204376indiana.jpg
Sorry...couldn't resist...
Don't know why you would want to use a cutting fluid when there are many known good lube options out there. Weapon Shield, SLIP, FrogLube to name a few...
4 years after the fact. This one is also in the running for necropost of the year.
4 years after the fact. This one is also in the running for necropost of the year.
And it's a lube thread...
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/776/doublefacepalm.png
Blankwaffe
03-25-12, 01:46
4 years after the fact. This one is also in the running for necropost of the year.
Naw just need to check the fences....its a zombie migration.
We need to come up with a lime green Zombie lube.Could probably get rich.
Naw just need to check the fences....its a zombie migration.
We need to come up with a lime green Zombie lube.Could probably get rich.
FrogLube is green...
I used to wonder why everyone would toss and turn and shit when lube was brought up in the forums here...now I understand...
Over/under on how many days it takes the FrogLube thread to pop up now again? (And I'm not bashing FL, I love it)
Blankwaffe
03-25-12, 02:06
FrogLube is green...
I used to wonder why everyone would toss and turn and shit when lube was brought up in the forums here...now I understand...
Over/under on how many days it takes the FrogLube thread to pop up now again? (And I'm not bashing FL, I love it)
Nope,FL is a mint green,its gota be more of a fluorescent biohazard green to work.
Nope,FL is a mint green,its gota be more of a fluorescent biohazard green to work.
Okay...I just had to do it...necropost+zombie theme FTW...
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/8528/poster14067nightoftheli.jpg
ETA: My apologies for sucking up bandwidth and stoking the fire...
Ghostmaker
03-25-12, 03:13
I've usually used TW25B, then frog lube on a recommendation. After a test, FL is all I use now. After initial treatment and lube, no lube or cleaning for over 2600 rounds, no malfunctions.... Its not all that expensive, least not as much as TW25B, but 4 sure more expensive than mobie 1. 4 oz paste is like $10 depending on where you get it. Then I use the liquid for very tight spaces.
Never used engine oil but know people that swear by mobil 1. I still use KG solvents for the bore but most of the parts like the bolt and carrier pretty much wipe clean. I'll use KG carbon remover if needed, then cleanse with 90% alcohol, then lube. If Mobil 1 works for you, use it, never heard anything bad about it personally.
If its good for int. combustion engines, it'll be good for weaponry if worse comes to worse. Otherwise I'll use Slip2000 to support small/new businesses who know what they're doing.
On another note, I believe in necroposting because it's good for the forum ecology: no new redundant threads to clutter up the forum... you know, recycling, shows that the posters know the use of a search button, and it's Mod friendly in many ways.
On another note, I believe in necroposting because it's good for the forum ecology: no new redundant threads to clutter up the forum... you know, recycling, shows that the posters know the use of a search button, and it's Mod friendly in many ways.
Agreed. People bitch about not using the search function and then when somebody does utilize the search function it's all of sudden a problem.
Moble 1 Good
+1 :big_boss:
Headcase650
03-25-12, 10:08
Ive read the recommendations for rotella-t. You may want to rethink this. Rotella-T is a popular oil for motorcycle use, because it contains less friction inhibitors preventing the wet clutches from slipping. I went from mobile-1 in my bike to rotella and could tell a very noticeable difference in clutch performance. With firearms you want an oil with a high friction inhibitor content.
Never even thought of using motor oil till now...
no question that can be asked that hasn't already been asked/answered before! Therefore, no new post should be made. Just use the damn search button! Having said that-- Frog lube all the way.
Heavy Metal
03-25-12, 13:27
Ive read the recommendations for rotella-t. You may want to rethink this. Rotella-T is a popular oil for motorcycle use, because it contains less friction inhibitors preventing the wet clutches from slipping. I went from mobile-1 in my bike to rotella and could tell a very noticeable difference in clutch performance. With firearms you want an oil with a high friction inhibitor content.
ATF would be a much better choice than engine oil. It also has far better corrosion inhibitors in it.
Ive read the recommendations for rotella-t. You may want to rethink this. Rotella-T is a popular oil for motorcycle use, because it contains less friction inhibitors preventing the wet clutches from slipping. I went from mobile-1 in my bike to rotella and could tell a very noticeable difference in clutch performance. With firearms you want an oil with a high friction inhibitor content.
I have an entire fleet of equipment running Rotella T; from 4 cylinder Kubota diesels all the way to Cummins ISX in semis. Never had an issue with the oil and I have two rigs over 500,000 miles. My pickup has 5000 hours on it running Rotella T (Duramax). Average RPM is probably close to 1200 rpm.....that's 360,000,000 million revolutions on that engine. My big rigs have more, but I don't have the hours on them.
The tollerances within an AR-15 are much bigger than the tolerances within a modern high horsepower diesel. I simply cannot see an issue with running Rotella T in an AR-15. For that matter, if you insist on running motor oil for gun lube I would doubt seriously there is much difference between any of the synthetic lubes. Furthermore, I doubt very much regular old dino oil would be much different either.
There is no definitive study on motor oil in guns. Chose what you like and go for it.
Ive read the recommendations for rotella-t. You may want to rethink this. Rotella-T is a popular oil for motorcycle use, because it contains less friction inhibitors preventing the wet clutches from slipping. I went from mobile-1 in my bike to rotella and could tell a very noticeable difference in clutch performance. With firearms you want an oil with a high friction inhibitor content.
Its all I ran in my zx12, although rumors on the diesel forums suggest the current formula has changed and decreased in capability but I haven't seen concrete validation of this yet.
ATF would be a much better choice than engine oil. It also has far better corrosion inhibitors in it.
corrosion and friction are two separate attributes tho, or are they the result of the same thing? Im not a chemist so Idk thats why Im asking
no question that can be asked that hasn't already been asked/answered before! Therefore, no new post should be made. Just use the damn search button! Having said that-- Frog lube all the way.
Sorry for the thread hijack but this is just dumb logic. First, things change, a thread started 5yrs ago might not have the most current best information available (frog lube wasn't around that long ago). Secondly this is a forum site. Forums were made for discussions. If the owners of this site wanted just a reference site they could have used a blog, wiki or any number of other platforms. I think it's fair to say they don't want the site to grow stale. Maybe a better logic would be if you don't have anything intelligent to add to the discussion don't post...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Using engine oil in a firearm is fine, but comparing the engine oil used in a firearm to the engine oil used in an engine in the sense of how long, how many miles, cycles, etc isn't a valid comparison.
Not unless your firearms have a mechanical pump to pressurize the oil flow to the high wear or friction areas and a filtration system anyway.
The only close simularity between engine and firearm would be stuff like the timing chain or piston rings. No pressure feed and if not outright bathed or immersed, then at least seriously splash serviced.
The only engines comperable to a firearm would be those along the lines of small stuff like a Briggs or Tecumseh 4 stroke.
Snow blower, kart, etc. vertical mount as they have no pressurizing pump and everything runs on splash disbursal with little to no immersion bath.
It would literally be a better comparison to use car door hinges and latch mechanism than the powerplant under the hood.
sinlessorrow
03-25-12, 15:41
Using engine oil in a firearm is fine, but comparing the engine oil used in a firearm to the engine oil used in an engine in the sense of how long, how many miles, cycles, etc isn't a valid comparison.
Not unless your firearms have a mechanical pump to pressurize the oil flow to the high wear or friction areas and a filtration system anyway.
The only close simularity between engine and firearm would be stuff like the timing chain or piston rings. No pressure feed and if not outright bathed or immersed, then at least seriously splash serviced.
The only engines comperable to a firearm would be those along the lines of small stuff like a Briggs or Tecumseh 4 stroke.
Snow blower, kart, etc. vertical mount as they have no pressurizing pump and everything runs on splash disbursal with little to no immersion bath.
It would literally be a better comparison to use car door hinges and latch mechanism than the powerplant under the hood.
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic and even after 500rnds in 30 minutes my bolt carrier and bolt face are still slick with lube.
I have actually found Synthetic motor oils to last longer than these fancy gun lubes in most cases, mix it with a little ATF and you also have good rust protection.
The other thing to note is most gun ouls are hazardous to your health, Synthetic motor oils generally are not, and at most will cause slight stomache upset if ingested
Sorry for the thread hijack but this is just dumb logic. First, things change, a thread started 5yrs ago might not have the most current best information available (frog lube wasn't around that long ago). Secondly this is a forum site. Forums were made for discussions. If the owners of this site wanted just a reference site they could have used a blog, wiki or any number of other platforms. I think it's fair to say they don't want the site to grow stale. Maybe a better logic would be if you don't have anything intelligent to add to the discussion don't post...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am with you 100% on this. I am really new to this forum, but I have a lot of time in others and this comes up a lot.
This is my stance, if its a topic that has been covered time and time again, well just don't open it and move on.
Simple.
But on topic, I never even really though about using motor oil on firearms and it seems to be a pretty good idea that's accepted by most. I am with AKDoug though, most likely dyno oil would work just as good as any.
Cleaned my 1 month old AR for the first time this morning after putting 100 round through it Friday. Used Mobil-1 as a lube.
Not motor oil but a look at some of the ones we all know.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sN6anOSVRQ
I guess you don't recognize sarcasm when you see it lol. Most times i come here just to see who got hammered next for posting something
Sorry for the thread hijack but this is
just dumb logic. First, things change, a thread started 5yrs ago might not have the most current best information available (frog lube wasn't around that long ago). Secondly this is a forum site. Forums were made for discussions. If the owners of this site wanted just a reference site they could have used a blog, wiki or any number of other platforms. I think it's fair to say they don't want the site to grow stale. Maybe a better logic would be if you don't have anything intelligent to add to the discussion don't post...
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I guess you don't recognize sarcasm when you see it lol. Most times i come here just to see who got hammered next for posting something
It's hard to "see" sarcasm when it's written :lol: !
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Okay...I just had to do it...necropost+zombie theme FTW...
ETA: My apologies for sucking up bandwidth and stoking the fire...
Only one angle nobody has touched on yet...
I prefer KY although I've heard a lot of talk about astroglide.:blink:
IYAAYASwarrior
03-25-12, 18:42
Only one angle nobody has touched on yet...
I prefer KY although I've heard a lot of talk about astroglide.:blink:
:haha:
Ghostmaker
03-25-12, 21:25
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic and even after 500rnds in 30 minutes my bolt carrier and bolt face are still slick with lube.
I have actually found Synthetic motor oils to last longer than these fancy gun lubes in most cases, mix it with a little ATF and you also have good rust protection.
The other thing to note is most gun ouls are hazardous to your health, Synthetic motor oils generally are not, and at most will cause slight stomache upset if ingested
Good point... If I was to use engine oil... it would be synthetic. On the other hand, you could just take precautions with the hazardous stuff, although why not go synthetic and save the worry. :fie:
I wouldn't lose any sleep if i had to use any of the above engine oils in a pinch long as it keeps my Lead chunkin' blaster runnin'.
Frog lube is plant based and non toxic also.
Over 2600 rounds bolt and carrier pretty much wiped clean, & still slicker than snot on a door nob after wiping it off.
Im not sure about the rest of you but I for one do not try and make it a habit of licking my BCG clean after every use soooo yea :lol:
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic and even after 500rnds in 30 minutes my bolt carrier and bolt face are still slick with lube.
I have actually found Synthetic motor oils to last longer than these fancy gun lubes in most cases, mix it with a little ATF and you also have good rust
I was wondering if anyone had mixed engine and atf together. To me it would make sense having a decent blend of the two.
Ghostmaker
03-26-12, 01:21
Im not sure about the rest of you but I for one do not try and make it a habit of licking my BCG clean after every use soooo yea :lol:
yea but some smell good enough to. Frog lube smells minty. I seen someone else say G96 smells like cinnamon. Lick Lick :p
bsmith_shoot
03-27-12, 00:00
Mobil 1 full synth. 5w-30. I've used it for a couple years with very good results. I absolutely love it on my pump shottys.
Brandon
Ghostmaker
03-29-12, 20:55
Like I said, I've never used engine oils, & am very happy with my current lube, but out of curiosity, do you ever see your synthetic engine oil on your bolt group go dry too quick? For example, high volume, rapid fire, or after a few days? Does it stay on & pretty slick between cleanings or do you have to lube between cleanings? I can see why people would like it, as it has higher viscosity & friction inhibitors than most regular, low viscosity "gun oils". It makes sense that you wouldn't have much of a problem with it running dry too quick, as it is high performance oil for engines, but I don't have first hand experience with Engine oils. I usually run my rig for over 1000 rounds or so now, before cleaning.. but everything is still very slick. Cleaning is so much less work also. Mobil 1 seems to be the favorite of most on here & everyone I've spoken with that uses engine oils.
bsmith_shoot
03-29-12, 21:15
Like I said, I've never used engine oils, and am very happy with my current lube but out of curiosity, do you ever see your synthetic engine oil on your bolt group go dry too quick? For example, high volume, rapid fire, or after a few days? or does it stay on and pretty slick for a while. Do you have to lube between cleanings? I can see why people would like it, as it has higher viscosity & friction inhibitors than most regular, low viscosity "gun oils". I would think you wouldn't have much problem with it running dry too quick, as it is high performance oil for engines, but I don't have first hand experience with Engine oils. I usually run my rig foIr over 1000 rounds or so now, before cleaning.. but everything is still very slick. Cleaning is so much less work also. Mobil 1 seems to be the favorite of most on here and everyone I've spoken with about engine oils.
I just lube when I clean. Thats every 1k to 1.5k rounds. After a thousand rounds, its still really slick.
Brandon
I was wondering if anyone had mixed engine and atf together. To me it would make sense having a decent blend of the two.
I've been using a 50/50 mix of Mobil 1 Synthetic and ATF on my 870 for years. Works great. I took a Rob Haught shotgun class a few years ago, and sure enough the CLP I was using at the time dried out fairly quickly. Before lunch on Day 1, I could really feel the increased friction. One of the guys (Tim Lau, I think?) had a squirt bottle of that 50/50 mix on hand, and after a few light squirts on the bolt rails and action bars, the gun ran like butter for the next day and a half. I probably put 350-400rds of cheap birdshot, plus another 50 rounds of buck and slugs through the gun in that time frame, and it stayed smooth. I've been a convert ever since.
sinlessorrow
03-29-12, 23:43
Like I said, I've never used engine oils, & am very happy with my current lube, but out of curiosity, do you ever see your synthetic engine oil on your bolt group go dry too quick? For example, high volume, rapid fire, or after a few days? Does it stay on & pretty slick between cleanings or do you have to lube between cleanings? I can see why people would like it, as it has higher viscosity & friction inhibitors than most regular, low viscosity "gun oils". It makes sense that you wouldn't have much of a problem with it running dry too quick, as it is high performance oil for engines, but I don't have first hand experience with Engine oils. I usually run my rig for over 1000 rounds or so now, before cleaning.. but everything is still very slick. Cleaning is so much less work also. Mobil 1 seems to be the favorite of most on here & everyone I've spoken with that uses engine oils.
i put 660 rounds through my MK18 clone the other day in 1.5hrs and the only place that did not have lube was the bolt tail, heres some pics of my BCG broken down
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1665.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_7669.jpg
it probably would have gone another 200-400 rounds and this was with 2 drop in the cam pin slot and 2 drops in the gas vents so it would get on the gas rings, and 1 drop on each rail
SilverTongueDevil
03-30-12, 00:44
I was wondering has anyone tried power steering fluid?
Seems slick but sticks too.
The only practical difference lubrication wise between power steering fluid and Dextron ATF is the label and perhaps the color.
Well, price too I suppose.
You don't want to use steering fluid in an auto box, but ATF in the power steering system is just fine and pretty well common practice these days for topping up or refilling the system.
Ghostmaker
03-30-12, 07:27
I just lube when I clean. Thats every 1k to 1.5k rounds. After a thousand rounds, its still really slick.
Brandon
Hmm, makes me feel better if i was in a bad situation & had to pull some off my dip stick huh... I could just see that, Tactical Dipstick Drill.... yesss.
i put 660 rounds through my MK18 clone the other day in 1.5hrs and the only place that did not have lube was the bolt tail, heres some pics of my BCG broken down
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1665.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_7669.jpg
it probably would have gone another 200-400 rounds and this was with 2 drop in the cam pin slot and 2 drops in the gas vents so it would get on the gas rings, and 1 drop on each rail
yep, still slick but the bolt tail. Your right, probably could have.
I could see the tactical dipstick drill catching on amongst the doomsday prepper crowd lol. Just think of the implications during a teotwawki AND it's emp safe!
couldn't help myself..
Breadstick
03-30-12, 16:52
I use ATF.
Good snip about lubes:
http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
Ghostmaker
03-30-12, 17:00
I could see the tactical dipstick drill catching on amongst the doomsday prepper crowd lol. Just think of the implications during a teotwawki AND it's emp safe!
couldn't help myself..
Yep, if we end up seeing the new Tactical Dipstick Drill on Doomsday preppers one Tuesday night, we know they read this thread....
Breadstick
03-30-12, 17:01
I use ATF.
Good snip about lubes:
http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
I did use motor oil for years on my firearms. Last Nov. I had the privlidge of putting my upper on a fullauto lower and watched it go about 1000rounds that day...that oil burned off so fast. The tranny fluid on the other hand lasted longer and seem to migrate better wich was suggested by my uncle who uses it on his FA AR. It sucks he doesnt let anyone shoot his FA though....but was fun to watch.
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