View Full Version : Shaving FSB - necessary to remove?
I'm shaving my FSB to make a low-pro gas block to go under a 12" rail.
Is it necessary to remove it or can this be done still attached to the barrel?
GeorgiaBoy
01-27-12, 16:36
Short answer: No.
outrider627
01-27-12, 16:40
Not necessary, but it'll be much easier if you remove it.
I cut mine down while it was on the barrel, and I didn't have the best tools available. I burned through 2 or 3 reinforced dremel wheels and 4 sanding drums. I couldn't fully grind away the bayonet lug since it's way too close to the barrel. I wrapped the barrel around the FSB in multiple layers of painters tape, and a couple layers of duct tape.
I'll take some pics and post them in a few minutes.
I'm shaving my FSB to make a low-pro gas block to go under a 12" rail.
Is it necessary to remove it or can this be done still attached to the barrel?
Work it on the barrel, if you find its giving you trouble, pull it.
If you have a bench grinder, it should be super quick.
Work it on the barrel, if you find its giving you trouble, pull it.
If you have a bench grinder, it should be super quick.
No need to remove if you have a steady hand. The barrel can even serve as a nice handle if using a bench grinder to "finish" grind.
outrider627
01-27-12, 17:52
Here are the pics:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/6773232239_a860ca69e6_b.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7019/6773231951_bf4764614b_b.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7160/6773231629_1fe5d8fda7_b.jpg
I refinished it with cold blue, followed by rustoleum high heat paint, and flat clear coat. Looks like I need to touch up some areas. The gas block scraped up against the inside of the one rail a few too many times and scratched it all the way down to bare metal.
Suwannee Tim
01-27-12, 19:06
...... I burned through 2 or 3 reinforced dremel wheels and 4 sanding drums.....
Does anyone ever do this with the grand old standbys, the hacksaw and the file? And why is it called "shaving"? I would call it "chopping". To me shaving implies taking off just a little bit of metal.
Cesiumsponge
01-27-12, 19:28
Does anyone ever do this with the grand old standbys, the hacksaw and the file? And why is it called "shaving"? I would call it "chopping". To me shaving implies taking off just a little bit of metal.
I did one before with a hacksaw and a bastard file. It builds character, damnit!
Robb Jensen
01-27-12, 21:03
I use a plasma cutter, bench grinder then sandblast and refinish with Norrells moly resin.
I used a hack saw, 1" belt sander, Aluma-hyde, and 9 ounces of Scotch. :cool:
You can do it on the barrel and it's not all that hard. I did mine with a dremel and like others, went thru 3 cutoff wheels and several sanding drums. Just use a steady hand and you'll have it done in no time. I had to cut the bayonet lug from both sides due to the thickness of it. In any case, it's a helluva lot cheaper than buying a gas block.
I left mine on, but had to partially remove it to cut the hand guard cap.10995
I use a plasma cutter, bench grinder then sandblast and refinish with Norrells moly resin.
Now that's what I'm talking about it. Nothing wrong with a Dremel, but sometimes doing the job RIGHT just feels gooooood.
Dremel?? Who uses a Dremel? This is a job calling for Dr. Sawzall and Nurse Bighammers!
http://hci.frontstepsmedial.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Milwaukee-Sawzall-Reciprocating-Saw.jpg
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17921.jpg
saddlerocker
01-27-12, 21:31
I did it on the barrel as well, I found the handguard cap to be the hardest part since it is recessed in a groove and you can only cut it so far.
I'm shaving my FSB to make a low-pro gas block to go under a 12" rail.
Is it necessary to remove it or can this be done still attached to the barrel?
No, but in order to do it properly, yes. It also depends greatly on the type of rail you are trying to fit it under.
C4
thanks for all the replies guys. I'm not opposed to pulling the FH and FSB but if I didn't have to I would like to leave it undisturbed. It's on a 16" BCM SS barrel that has already shot sub-MOA so I figure the less wacking with a hammer the better...
I had a 'smith tell me you HAVE to pull it but as some have said, if I'm careful I don't see why. I have a dremel, bench grinder, 8" vise, and a Sawzall, just waiting for Nurse Bighammers to show up... :D
It's going under a Centurion 12" rail so I'll be sure to measure carefully for fit before I begin.
again, thanks for all the help...
Suwannee Tim
01-28-12, 04:59
Reason I ask, for some the Dremel seems to be the weapon of choice for metal working. I have one but I never use it.
wetidlerjr
01-28-12, 05:23
...Nurse Bighammers!
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17921.jpg
A 2 lb. hand sledge is ALWAYS the answer! :cool:
A 2 lb. hand sledge is ALWAYS the answer! :cool:
Also known as the "ford Alignment Tool" but works well in these situations as well.....
As for OP ....I took mine off after the inital cutting for finishing...could get to all the places needed with no worry of scratching the barrel but thats just me ...OCD
I used a 5" grinder to cut down the Bayonet lug, sling swivel and sight tower.
Then used a dremel with sanding wheel for the clean up.
The dremel goes pretty fast.
I pulled mine just because the 5" grinder is a beast and I didnt want any slips.
It only takes a few minutes to do, thats worth it to not dig into the barrel
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/Danger131/SBR5.jpg
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/Danger131/SBR6.jpg
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/Danger131/SBR7.jpg
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/Danger131/SBR10.jpg
Also known as the "ford Alignment Tool" but works well in these situations as well.....
At work, I call it the "Persuadatron"
As for OP ....I took mine off after the inital cutting for finishing...could get to all the places needed with no worry of scratching the barrel but thats just me ...OCD
Not OCD at all but the mark of a professional. A slip of the grinder can cut pretty deep very quickly. No sense in damaging parts needlessly
I've done them with Dremmels and with angle grinders...angle grinders
go much faster...
Check your work often...
I do use the Dremmel with finer grinding wheel to get the in between
areas
Paint with engine block paint or wheel paint...just make sure everything
is degreased real well before painting..
Heating it up with a hair dryer before helps....especially in winter weather
up north and you paint out in the garage.
Someone may have mentioned this but I'd yet to see it mentioned- what about your handguard cap? Won't you have to pull the FSB to remove it anyway?
Suwannee Tim
01-29-12, 20:37
I have a 1/4 inch die grinder (http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/metalworking-and-grinders/grinders/die-grinders) which is a double extra magnum Dremel tool. I would not be with out it. With a flap wheel it move some metal. Of course so will a 16 inch flat bastard. I kind of enjoy filing. Good exercise and I find it relaxing, certainly as opposed to grinding. Not that you can't damage the work with a file.
Mattyboy702
01-30-12, 02:28
I left mine on for most of the cutting then took it off to cold blue it
I did one before with a hacksaw and a bastard file. It builds character, damnit!
That made me spew coffee, damnit!
Someone may have mentioned this but I'd yet to see it mentioned- what about your handguard cap? Won't you have to pull the FSB to remove it anyway?
it's already off...
ok for anyone still interested, I went ahead and removed the FSB.
I just didn't want the title of my next thread to be "What can I use to fix deep gouges and scratches in my SS Ionbond barrel?".. :jester:
now that it's off, I face another dilemma. it's going under a 12" rail so do I want to cut it up, or just go ahead and put a low-pro gas block on there. I have another unused barrel that it can be mounted on.
decisions, decisions...
Mattyboy702
01-30-12, 13:52
Cut it up if you don't like it you can get a low pro gas block, but if you do like it you saved money on a pinned low pro
wow that is freakin' awesome. and here i was looking for a gas block long enuff to cover both holes. good stuff.
If you do take the FSB off it will make your life a whole lot easier if you had this from Brownell's:
FRONT-SIGHT-BENCH-BLOCK (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20727/Product/AR-15-FRONT-SIGHT-BENCH-BLOCK)
abanks8245
01-31-12, 00:43
mine looks like crap,lol, but it fits under the dd light rail on my colt 6920, and absolutely works, you can buzz the gas block while still the barrel, but easily manipulated off the barrel. good job on the ones posted, mine still looks crude, but i really dont care, ken Elmore (SAW) does on of the slickest buzzed fsp and looks better than most factory low pro gas blocks, plus the benefits of keeping the strongest gas block possible
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