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68whiskeyncoke
01-30-12, 19:17
Well here I am feeling like an idiot hammering away trying to remove the pins on the FSB. Not budging, I realize they are tapered, I am pretty sure I am hitting on the correct side. Is there something else I am missing here?

ryan
01-30-12, 19:19
Smith and Wesson?

68whiskeyncoke
01-30-12, 19:21
Bravo 14.5 LW middy

ryan
01-30-12, 19:23
This, http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20727/Product/AR-15-FRONT-SIGHT-BENCH-BLOCK , a good sturdy bench or concrete slab, and bigger hammer

SteadyUp
01-30-12, 19:26
I use a Brownells front sight block to pound out the pins. You *NEED* to have the block on a really solid surface (like a cement floor), and you can't be shy with the sledge hammer.

Search the site for this subject, and a couple good threads will come up. You're not the first person who's had a hell of a time removing a front sight.

ryan
01-30-12, 19:32
This looks like a good thread on the subject, https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=32480

deuce9166
01-30-12, 19:39
I had a hell of a time with a BCM front sight as well. Had to break out the BFH. That was the first and last one I'll do.

Dave L.
01-30-12, 19:46
I use a Brownells front sight block to pound out the pins. You *NEED* to have the block on a really solid surface (like a cement floor), and you can't be shy with the sledge hammer.


^^That^^ but also make sure you have a quality steal pin punch and and the BFH.

wahoo95
01-30-12, 19:48
Big hammer and steel punch does the trick.....don't be shy with it!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Iraqgunz
01-30-12, 22:07
I highly recommend soaking the pins with Kroil or a similar oil or lubricant to help.

Use a good solid hammer and the right punch and you should have no issues.

Col_Crocs
01-30-12, 22:41
Oh yeah... BCM's taper pins... :D There's a thread on that around here somewhere. They recommend the above listed stuff and either a good, solid workbench or setting it on a concrete floor so as not to get any surface flex and impact absorption.
ETA: Found it!
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=41732

Tweak
01-31-12, 18:54
I'll second the recommendation of the sturdy work surface and a solid steel punch, preferably about 1/4" in diameter, but in several hundred removals the only time I've had to use anything more than an 8 oz ball peen is when the pins weren't hardened.

It's helps to secure the FSB in such a manner that it cannot rock with the impact. I use a scrap piece of HDPE with a shallow groove in it. I don't get a lot of use out of the sling swivel rivet stake part that I milled in anymore though. :)

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a264/artweaker/Troubleshooting/DSCN1644.jpg

You cannot tap them out though, you must drive them out. Make the first hit count. The bigger and flatter the punch the easier it is to do this. You don't want to use some 1/8" punch and risk it slipping off the pin.

Darkop
02-02-12, 20:18
I use a torch and heat the pins, then hit them with Kroil, then heat a little bit more, then SMACK the dog shit out of them with a hardened nail set with the sight base on a 2X4 on cement floor, then tap them the rest of the way out with the proper sized punch. Done several and this way works the best for me without buggering up the tapper pins. I then reuse the pins (Horror of Horrors)

Until that day,
Darkop

aaron_c
02-02-12, 20:56
I've been liquid wrenching my BCM's FSB taper pins and just obliterating them with my punches and 12oz. hammer, and my rubber mallet, for 2+ days. Those suckers have yet to budge. Flash hider came off easy as pie, as did the gas tube roll pin...but those two taper pins aren't budging.

Tweak
02-02-12, 22:35
rubber mallet

:laugh:

Are the pins deforming?

Robb Jensen
02-02-12, 22:41
For taper pins I use the pictures brass hammer and the two punches pictured. It's more technique instead of brute force.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/gotm4/14a091fc.jpg

Tweak
02-03-12, 02:22
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a264/artweaker/Troubleshooting/DSCN1421.jpg

Hammer is on the red tool box, the heavy duty pin pin is just below the action block to the left of the 1/2-28 die.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a264/artweaker/Troubleshooting/BFItaperpins.jpg

That's usually the problem with insanely tight pins.

careboy
02-03-12, 02:37
Bravo 14.5 LW middy
http://www.primeaffiliate.com/track/images/22.gif

aaron_c
02-03-12, 09:50
:laugh:

Are the pins deforming?

Didn't appear to be, but I ended up getting the handguard cap off yesterday (which was the goal behind removing the FSB) with some pliers and tin snips. It wasn't that difficult at all, really. Took about 15 minutes.

Tweak
02-03-12, 20:25
Wouldn't happen to be near Western WA would you?

Suwannee Tim
02-03-12, 20:56
....Hammer is on the red tool box.....

Which hammer? The rawhide mallet or the little 8 ounce ball pein? I wouldn't use either of these for a taper pin. I'd use a 16 ounce hammer if not a 24. Or a 2 pound sledge.

Tweak
02-03-12, 21:23
Been driving taper pins with that since 1993. ;)

Robb Jensen
02-03-12, 21:36
Exactly Tweak, big hammers aren't needed if you're doing it right!
The only pins which have given me trouble are CMMGs marshmallow pins.

Heavy Metal
02-03-12, 21:52
I cannot agree with IG's Kroil advice enough. If I suspect I am going to have to drive the bastards, I start soaking them weeks in advance.

Suwannee Tim
02-05-12, 05:32
Been driving taper pins with that since 1993. ;)

I've got a little bitty hammer somewhere. I inherited it from my Grandmother. I'll see if I can find it and try it on a taper pin. I'm descended from a bunch of railroad men. Big hammers are a family tradition.

Tweak
02-05-12, 16:10
It's not the size of the hammer but how you use it. ;)

Suwannee Tim
02-06-12, 11:35
Well, I set out to tease you about your little bitty hammer but it didn't work out the way I planned so I reckon I'll quit before I get any farther behind.:D

Tweak
02-06-12, 18:13
It's not the size of the hammer but how you use it. ;)That's what every guy with a small hammer says

:jester:


I left you a jest. :D

But, seriously, it's a solid first hit that counts and a large OD punch is what works best. Once the pin starts it's usually easy. Pic of same to follow.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a264/artweaker/Troubleshooting/DSCN3620.jpg

Suwannee Tim
02-06-12, 19:29
Is that a Starrett punch in the lower left? If I had known you had Starrett tools I wouldn't have screwed with you.:D I like the idea of hitting it with a big punch one blow.

usmcvet
02-06-12, 19:34
I am also a new believer in Kroil. The stuff really helps.