View Full Version : Kinda stumped... like some input
Hey all, this is my first real post been lurking for a while. I now have the funds for my first AR and went to the gun shop today to buy one but was quickly perplexed.
I have been researching for a WHILE now and thought i had the one i was going to get the PWS MK114 i know the whole piston vs DI thing but after some REALLY good reviews it seems to be a well built rifle but the whole 1550$ price tag is what getting me but thats not whats baffling its the fact they had a DI riffle for ab out 500$ less but it was kinda a custom thing with a spikes lower and PWS barrel with DD modular float 12'' with no sights and i think a DD LPK.. So we figured out the door with one of these rifles it would of made it just under 300$ with sights on the DI..
So to make it clear is the 300$ increase for what i have been reading to be a little better rifle better? now i know thats a 1000 rounds ammo but seeings how this is my first i want to make it a good one and if things dont get better my only one...
Any input would be nice,
Thanks
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Evidently "lurking" does not include "reading". There's no way you could have even glanced over this Form for a year and a half and not come out realizing "pistons" gun are not recommended.
But...go ahead and buy that PWS, it is worth every penny...just please report back to us at a later date how it worked out for you...
But maybe it's just me...
.
Leonidas24
02-18-12, 00:20
I know several people who've bought into the PWS koolaid and they say it's actually a nice design. I've fired one on a couple occasions and the long-stroke system really does cut back on the violent operating system that is the piston AR. If you absolutely have to have a piston AR I think PWS is about the best you can find that isn't $4,000 and only on the black market (i.e. H&K 416.)
I really dont want this to be a battle... I did mention another rifle as well .. if you think that there is something in that price range that would suffice then please tell me im seeing a lot out there but everyone has pros and cons on all of them well except for the $2000+ ones like i said this is will be my first ar so when i walk in to a gun shop im at there mercy really....
The standard AR already has a piston. It's part of and centerline with the bolt. What you're paying over $500 for is to change from a centerline piston integrated with the bolt to an offset bolt relocated to the gas block. That will move some of the carbon deposits from firing from the action to the gas block
Maybe you should spend some time in the New to Firearms subforum. There are plenty of threads in there that should help to educate you and assist you with making a good purchase. I would avoid either of the two choices you listed as a first AR.
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=60901
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=98298
Get the PWS. Go for custom mutts later.
The gas piston vs. DI debate has been beaten to death on this board. My personal recommendation is to skip the gas piston, get a Colt 6920, and save yourself $500+ dollars and some potential headaches in the process. You can use the extra money for ammo or an optic. If your local dealer doesn't have the Colt order one from G&R Tactical and have it shipped to your local FFL. Grant is an active member of this board and a really solid guy to do business with. Plus he has about the lowest price I've seen for the Colt.
DeltaSierra
02-18-12, 08:23
The gas piston vs. DI debate has been beaten to death on this board. My personal recommendation is to skip the gas piston, get a Colt 6920, and save yourself $500+ dollars and some potential headaches in the process. You can use the extra money for ammo or an optic. If your local dealer doesn't have the Colt order one from G&R Tactical and have it shipped to your local FFL. Grant is an active member of this board and a really solid guy to do business with. Plus he has about the lowest price I've seen for the Colt.
Please, just listen to this guy.....
It will save you time, money and a ton of hassle.
I vote turnkey Colt as well.. It worked well for me.. JMO.. Ron
Of course you should know you should buy a colt from Grant! You damn goofball! Hell, why you wanna go wasterin all yer damn money on one of them there damn finicky piston guns whens you can git yerself a fine damned DI rifle. It's what the military uses, it's what you should have.
Hey all, this is my first real post been lurking for a while. I now have the funds for my first AR and went to the gun shop today to buy one but was quickly perplexed.
I have been researching for a WHILE now and thought i had the one i was going to get the PWS MK114 i know the whole piston vs DI thing but after some REALLY good reviews it seems to be a well built rifle but the whole 1550$ price tag is what getting me but thats not whats baffling its the fact they had a DI riffle for ab out 500$ less but it was kinda a custom thing with a spikes lower and PWS barrel with DD modular float 12'' with no sights and i think a DD LPK.. So we figured out the door with one of these rifles it would of made it just under 300$ with sights on the DI..
So to make it clear is the 300$ increase for what i have been reading to be a little better rifle better? now i know thats a 1000 rounds ammo but seeings how this is my first i want to make it a good one and if things dont get better my only one...
Any input would be nice,
Thanks
Hello and welcome to the forum!
Since you are new to the AR family, I would advise you to buy a quality DI gun (Colt, DD, BCM, etc) which will run you UNDER $1k, spend the extra coin on training, a Red Dot Sight and ammo.
THEN, after you know something, start looking at parts that fit your needs and customize from there.
Many of us have bought just about every piece of kit for the AR and then are right back simple FF tubes (with few to no rails on them) or just plastic handguards (like the Magpul MOE line). Food for thought.
C4
Thanks guys...
I thought the colts weren't mill spec with there pins being larger than others?
DeltaSierra
02-18-12, 10:30
Thanks guys...
I thought the colts weren't mill spec with there pins being larger than others?
Not for several years now...
All new production Colt rifles use the standard .155 FCG pins, rather than the oversize .170 pins.
Thanks guys...
I thought the colts weren't mill spec with there pins being larger than others?
That was true at one time, but about a year or two ago, they stopped using the larger pins.
C4
Nice.. so would the colt be your guys goto rifle if lets say the zombie attacks or the world falls in to great disrepair...im kidding but you know what i mean ...
How do they handle cheap steel ammo i know you shouldn't but it is cheap and i can a lot more trigger time with it....?
Nice.. so would the colt be your guys goto rifle if lets say the zombie attacks or the world falls in to great disrepair...im kidding but you know what i mean ...
How do they handle cheap steel ammo i know you shouldn't but it is cheap and i can a lot more trigger time with it....?
It would be one of the top choices for certain.
I typically shoot Hornady Training (steel cased) and it runs just fine. With that said, don't buy a BMW and put the cheapest tires and gas you can find in it. ;)
C4
Nice thanks grant for taking the time to answer my questions i guess its back to the drawing boards ill do some more looking around and stick with the DI..
I really want a rifle that will eat anything i put in it .... I understand the BMW analogy but if im out in the middle of no where i would like to know that i can put anything in it and still run well and get home with no determent ill effects..
Nice thanks grant for taking the time to answer my questions i guess its back to the drawing boards ill do some more looking around and stick with the DI..
I really want a rifle that will eat anything i put in it .... I understand the BMW analogy but if im out in the middle of no where i would like to know that i can put anything in it and still run well and get home with no determent ill effects..
Quality AR's WILL EAT crap ammo, but I would treat that as more of an emergency type thing than an everyday deal.
Cheap ammo is dirty (more time cleaning), can create/cause more malfunctions and won't show you your weapons true capability in regards to accuracy.
C4
Okay cool thanks again .....
Now that you're definitely pointed in the right direction, I would buy at least a case of decent quality brass ammunition (IMI, PPU, Federal XM193 comes to mind) to run at first, so that a new firearm which hasn't had the contact surfaces worn in isn't going to be giving you strange malfunctions - then you can go to the more affordable ammunition when accuracy isn't a priority, and feel free to use match grade stuff whenever it is.
No sense breaking in a new bimmer on kerosene and wondering why it has hiccups.
The other odd recommendation I have is to look at (and consider waiting for) the 6720 over the 6920. They're harder to find, a cost a touch more, but they shoot as well as the M4 profiled counterpart, and save some weight. With polymer handguards, or an installed FF rail, that little bit helps with how it handles.
Nice.. so would the colt be your guys goto rifle if lets say the zombie attacks or the world falls in to great disrepair...im kidding but you know what i mean ...
How do they handle cheap steel ammo i know you shouldn't but it is cheap and i can a lot more trigger time with it....?
I've trusted Colt DI with my life for 23 years, with 44 months in combat zones; you can trust it for zombie attacks.
Okay it looks like the colt is coming out a head of all other mfs ..... ill do some looking on prices..
I was planning on running brass at first, but going to steel for more trigger time...
Thanks guys/gals if any..
Okay it looks like the colt is coming out a head of all other mfs ..... ill do some looking on prices..
I was planning on running brass at first, but going to steel for more trigger time...
Thanks guys/gals if any..
I have a piston gun made by POF that I got in a trade for a rifle that didn't cost me anywhere near the POF's MSRP. It's a nice rifle and I like it very much, but all of them are, IMHO, overhyped, front-heavy and not worth the extra cost. I'm keeping the POF, but after doing a lot of research here and elsewhere, I bought a BCM blemished lower and a lightweight, cold hammer forged BCM upper with MOE handguards from Grant. It's the nearest equivalent to the Colt 6720 and it's beautiful. I can't wait to get out on the range and shoot the snot out of it!
:D
Okay it looks like the colt is coming out a head of all other mfs
I dont know that I would agree 100% with that but as a starter AR it is a good start.
sinlessorrow
02-18-12, 23:55
The gas piston vs. DI debate has been beaten to death on this board. My personal recommendation is to skip the gas piston, get a Colt 6920, and save yourself $500+ dollars and some potential headaches in the process. You can use the extra money for ammo or an optic. If your local dealer doesn't have the Colt order one from G&R Tactical and have it shipped to your local FFL. Grant is an active member of this board and a really solid guy to do business with. Plus he has about the lowest price I've seen for the Colt.
IDK DD makes some very nice rifles and arent super expensive. so my vote is colt or daniel defense
i also run 100% steel ammo, i dont shoot for 600yrd accuracy so the minute of man that steel offers is perfect for me. it allows me to shoot almost twice as much.
I always run cheap steel stuff through my DDM4. I'm restricted to 50 yard indoor range due to logistics. My rifle ran fine for 1500 rounds of steel rounds without any problem.
edit - as a clarification, I did lube in between that round count.
I always run cheap steel stuff through my DDM4. I'm restricted to 50 yard indoor range due to logistics. My rifle ran fine for 1500 rounds of steel rounds without any problem.
edit - as a clarification, I did lube in between that round count.
Careful! If you talk about steel cases they'll shut the thread down... :(
I own three Colts and have shot THOUSANDS of rounds of cheap, dirty Wolf and Bear ammo. Other than a period awhile back when Wolf started having problems (which they have now rectified with the WPA line) they have eaten it with no problems.
IMO it is WELL worth the 33% cost savings and you will not have any problem with it in a properly functioning (and un-fiddle-****ed-with) Colt.
Careful! If you talk about steel cases they'll shut the thread down... :(
=================================
Why would you say "they" would shut the Thread down for discussing steel cased ammo?
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Thanks for the input guys kinda starting to dig some of the DD, BCM just trying to find one in stock is a bear for the BCM anyways....
Thanks for the input guys kinda starting to dig some of the DD, BCM just trying to find one in stock is a bear for the BCM anyways....
For complete BCM rifles, yes. A quicker road to gratification would be buying a BCM "blem" complete lower and mating it to the BCM upper of your choosing. I own enough of them that I'll take the extra savings of the "blems" every time.
Quality AR's WILL EAT crap ammo, but I would treat that as more of an emergency type thing than an everyday deal.
Cheap ammo is dirty (more time cleaning), can create/cause more malfunctions and won't show you your weapons true capability in regards to accuracy.
C4
There are no guarantees that buying a high quality AR15 will mean it will feed lower quality ammo. That's been my experience and another persons on this forum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkJQ5JAHIjc
There are no guarantees that buying a high quality AR15 will mean it will feed lower quality ammo. That's been my experience and another persons on this forum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkJQ5JAHIjc
=======================================
With proper lubrication and maintenance, a quality AR is as much a guarantee as you can get when shooting cheap ammo.
But maybe it's just me...
.
=======================================
With proper lubrication and maintenance, a quality AR is as much a guarantee as you can get when shooting cheap ammo.
But maybe it's just me...
.
It didn't make a difference for my rifle in the video. Your millage may vary I guess.
This was an interesting read for me today:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=92876&highlight=hk+416
I think most people will say the HK416 is the best piston option out there. Quite a few of the folk with significant trigger time behind one would not recommend them.
DI works very well especially one from a quality maker.
For what it's worth I was one of those guys that Grant described. First I resisted the flat top AR because the A2 is what I used in the Marine Corps.
Well then I bought rails, vertical fore grips, lights, slings and RDS. I bought a pair of H1 Aimpoints because everyone else seemed to like them and suggest them. I found out quickly that the 4 MOA dot was a no go with my eyes. I tried a TR24G, liked it just not the weight. I no longer have any rails on my guns. They all wear Magpul MOE handguards, BFG slings and Aimpoint M4 RDS. My point is this was freaking expensive and not necessary. Grant sells all kinds of great gear but he will be the first to tell you not to buy something you don't need. That is some of the best advice you will get.
This was an interesting read for me today:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=92876&highlight=hk+416
I think most people will say the HK416 is the best piston option out there. Quite a few of the folk with significant trigger time behind one would not recommend them.
DI works very well especially one from a quality maker.
For what it's worth I was one of those guys that Grant described. First I resisted the flat top AR because the A2 is what I used in the Marine Corps.
On the flip side, the Marine Corp adopted a variant of the HK416 called the M27 IAR. It would have been easier/cheaper for them to adopt a DI rifle, but they did not. I'm not implying the Stoner gas system is inferior, but perhaps the Marine Corps adoption of the weapon suggests the piston is not useless, but serves a different role. There always will be a number of people resistant to new equipment/new ideas whether it's superior or not. The best way to find the truth is try it out for yourself and determine it.
I second the military thing i used colt m4s for 10+ years and 3 deployments overseas never let me down but my personal rifles that are in the price range you allocated are daniel defense they are fantastic rifles and dd would be my choice if i had to only have one rifle with your budget get a case of ammo and a nice optic you like
There are no guarantees that buying a high quality AR15 will mean it will feed lower quality ammo. That's been my experience and another persons on this forum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkJQ5JAHIjc
That is most likely because you are running an a rifle length gas system (the softest shooting AR there is).
My comment was gear towards carbine and middy gas systems.
C4
That is most likely because you are running an a rifle length gas system (the softest shooting AR there is).
My comment was gear towards carbine and middy gas systems.
C4
Maybe. Colt SP-1's I've fired shoot steel cased ammo fine. A carbine or middy can also be subjected to failures like that.
Maybe. Colt SP-1's I've fired shoot steel cased ammo fine. A carbine or middy can also be subjected to failures like that.
They are most likely so old and have such a large gas port (to include a worn out buffer spring) that they will cycle a .22 Magnum.
Typically speaking mil-spec carbines and middy's with a proper gas port size (along with a correct buffer and spring) will run the majority of steel cased ammo.
C4
They are most likely so old and have such a large gas port (to include a worn out buffer spring) that they will cycle a .22 Magnum.
Typically speaking mil-spec carbines and middy's with a proper gas port size (along with a correct buffer and spring) will run the majority of steel cased ammo.
C4
The gas port/buffer wasn't a factor I think because I took a bolt from my SP-1 and tried it in the HBAR, and then was able to feed steel ammo. I presume significantly less mass of the SP-1 bolt carrier might be the reason why it might have worked then.
The gas port/buffer wasn't a factor I think because I took a bolt from my SP-1 and tried it in the HBAR, and then was able to feed steel ammo.
How do you know? Have you measured the GP size on the SP1? Did you measure the length of the buffer spring? If so, what were the measurements????
C4
How do you know? Have you measured the GP size on the SP1? Did you measure the length of the buffer spring? If so, what were the measurements????
C4
I have not. Like I said before, swapping the HBAR bolt carrier with a SP-1 bolt carrier made the rifle feed steel, where it previously did not with the HBAR bolt carrier which indicates the bolt is the issue.
RogerinTPA
02-21-12, 01:16
Mine, and many other members on this forum, beg to differ. Collectively, we have shot a metric shit ton of it reliably and in carbine courses. IMHO, the reason why a quality weapon won't run steel ammo is because it's not set up correctly and a lack of lube. Instead of trouble shooting, he listens to his bubba/ex this or that, friends and concludes it is the ammo's fault.
There are no guarantees that buying a high quality AR15 will mean it will feed lower quality ammo. That's been my experience and another persons on this forum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkJQ5JAHIjc
polymorpheous
02-21-12, 03:22
Seriously.
Some of you new members who insist on spewing misinfo and hyperbole need to drink a big tall glass of STFU.
Read more, post less.
Seriously.
Some of you new members who insist on spewing misinfo and hyperbole need to drink a big tall glass of STFU.
Read more, post less.
I believe it was ArmyChief who said:
"post because you have something to say, not because you want to say something."
I fear that the recent influx of new members don't know the difference.
Seriously.
Some of you new members who insist on spewing misinfo and hyperbole need to drink a big tall glass of STFU.
Read more, post less.
Did you LOOK at the video?
Mine, and many other members on this forum, beg to differ. Collectively, we have shot a metric shit ton of it reliably and in carbine courses. IMHO, the reason why a quality weapon won't run steel ammo is because it's not set up correctly and a lack of lube. Instead of trouble shooting, he listens to his bubba/ex this or that, friends and concludes it is the ammo's fault.
You're just denying the evidence. I showed you my rifle malfunctioning on steel cased ammo. You clearly didn't watch the video if you thought I didn't try trouble shooting it.
polymorpheous
02-21-12, 08:08
Did you LOOK at the video?
You think my post was pointed specifically at you?
ETA:
The bolt fails to lock back with brass cases Winchester .223 as well.
You think my post was pointed specifically at you?
ETA:
The bolt fails to lock back with brass cases Winchester .223 as well.
Right. He either has a bad BCG, a gas leak and or + a worn out USGI mag, but for some reason is blaming the ammo.
C4
Right. He either has a bad BCG, a gas leak and or + a worn out USGI mag, but for some reason is blaming the ammo.
C4
seems to me he's blaming the gun. Reading between the lines in his other posts here and the comments on that youstube video I sense an agenda.
You're just denying the evidence.
Not really.
Given the following:
-the fact that you've already stated that the BCG is the only variable you selected/attempted to alter...(am I wrong, there?)
-that it's been suggested/tested/proven to have positive results, here and elsewhere, that different buffer weights and different action springs may alter the outcome...
...the absolute worst, objective take-away is that it might be worthwhile to investigate other variables.
Think about it. One can effectively state, in this instance, that you've chosen steel-case as the common denominator, so the common variables that impact successful function are gas port, BCG (weight, loose gas key...something), buffer, action spring.
-can't do anyting about gas port without swapping barrels. Table that.
-you swapped BCG and met with some success. That's good news, no mistake.
That STILL leaves some things that may have/will have an impact on how the gun runs that you have not explored, i.e., that have not been completely eliminated. That's not to say that it's required that you do, either, but it's food for thought and useful info for future troubleshooting. As it is, you're effectively stating the following: "Swapping BCGs worked, so there's no way that different buffers/springs might have a similar effect."
Speaking of denial, huh....?
Also, in your case, I'd wager that you didn't specifically lube your chamber, since you're getting stuck cases...?
Messages can get lost in the medium. That's all that's happening, in terms of who is in denial over ANYthing.
Further, the Corps is getting about 4000 M27s, not 150k, because it was procured for a type-specific role; that of the Automatic Rifle within the fire-team/squad (despite the totally misleading "...AR" portion of "IAR"). In a high-volume, full-auto role like THAT, selecting a piston gun makes sense and is worth the extra $$$ on the front end.
For the everyday, individual shooter, who isn't doing high round-counts of one (actually, I think TWO...) the following three things...SBR, full-suto, suppressed...a piston gun makes less fiscal sense. That, however, does not invalidate "Because I want it..." as a reason; we live in a free-market economy, so folks can metaphorically set fire to piles of their cash in whatever manner they desire, within the boundaries of the law.
BREAK BREAK
I can see how it got here, but if this one's gonna stay open, it's not going to be on the basis of "we need here is YET ANOTHER bloody steel-case-ammo thread!" False.
We gonna get into lube and magazines, too? C'mon.....
RogerinTPA
02-21-12, 10:17
Eh...not the case. Since you brought it up: First up, shooting without eyepro = BIG No No. All it takes is one F-up, and you're eyesight is gone. Second, simply stating repeatedly that you don't know why the BCG isn't locking to the rear, is not considered "trouble shooting" in these parts. IMHO, there was no trouble shooting attempted other than swapping BCGs. You might as well have scratched your dick and got the same result in your problem solving efforts. Third, use less finger when manipulating the trigger. The whole video screams novice, without training. Forth, Tula has been trouble from day one, avoid using it at all cost.
Did you LOOK at the video?
You're just denying the evidence. I showed you my rifle malfunctioning on steel cased ammo. You clearly didn't watch the video if you thought I didn't try trouble shooting it.
I have not. Like I said before, swapping the HBAR bolt carrier with a SP-1 bolt carrier made the rifle feed steel, where it previously did not with the HBAR bolt carrier which indicates the bolt is the issue.
.......... There is just so much more going on....
Uggh. You guys take this one...... I have a really nice brick wall I want to go smash my head against
Right. He either has a bad BCG, a gas leak and or + a worn out USGI mag, but for some reason is blaming the ammo.
C4
Did you really watch the video?. It jams with the PMAG too. I showed it.
Not really.
Given the following:
-the fact that you've already stated that the BCG is the only variable you selected/attempted to alter...(am I wrong, there?)
-that it's been suggested/tested/proven to have positive results, here and elsewhere, that different buffer weights and different action springs may alter the outcome...
...the absolute worst, objective take-away is that it might be worthwhile to investigate other variables.
Think about it. One can effectively state, in this instance, that you've chosen steel-case as the common denominator, so the common variables that impact successful function are gas port, BCG (weight, loose gas key...something), buffer, action spring.
-can't do anyting about gas port without swapping barrels. Table that.
-you swapped BCG and met with some success. That's good news, no mistake.
That STILL leaves some things that may have/will have an impact on how the gun runs that you have not explored, i.e., that have not been completely eliminated. That's not to say that it's required that you do, either, but it's food for thought and useful info for future troubleshooting. As it is, you're effectively stating the following: "Swapping BCGs worked, so there's no way that different buffers/springs might have a similar effect."
Speaking of denial, huh....?
Also, in your case, I'd wager that you didn't specifically lube your chamber, since you're getting stuck cases...?
Messages can get lost in the medium. That's all that's happening, in terms of who is in denial over ANYthing.
Further, the Corps is getting about 4000 M27s, not 150k, because it was procured for a type-specific role; that of the Automatic Rifle within the fire-team/squad (despite the totally misleading "...AR" portion of "IAR"). In a high-volume, full-auto role like THAT, selecting a piston gun makes sense and is worth the extra $$$ on the front end.
For the everyday, individual shooter, who isn't doing high round-counts of one (actually, I think TWO...) the following three things...SBR, full-suto, suppressed...a piston gun makes less fiscal sense. That, however, does not invalidate "Because I want it..." as a reason; we live in a free-market economy, so folks can metaphorically set fire to piles of their cash in whatever manner they desire, within the boundaries of the law.
BREAK BREAK
I can see how it got here, but if this one's gonna stay open, it's not going to be on the basis of "we need here is YET ANOTHER bloody steel-case-ammo thread!" False.
We gonna get into lube and magazines, too? C'mon.....
You aren't suppose to lube the chamber. Refer to the instruction manual. I won't rule out that the buffer spring or size of the gas port could be a possible problem. In all honestly though, I don't really care. My point in linking that video was that regardless of quality, a lot of AR15's will feed steel, but not all AR15's will feed steel case/lower quality ammo out of the box. If you buy an AR15 expecting it to feed all ammo types, it leaves open the possibility of disappointment. Buy an AK if you want that something guaranteed to run lower quality ammo.
Eh...not the case. Since you brought it up: First up, shooting without eyepro = BIG No No. All it takes is one F-up, and you're eyesight is gone. Second, simply stating repeatedly that you don't know why the BCG isn't locking to the rear, is not considered "trouble shooting" in these parts. IMHO, there was no trouble shooting attempted other than swapping BCGs. You might as well have scratched your dick and got the same result in your problem solving efforts. Third, use less finger when manipulating the trigger. The whole video screams novice, without training. Forth, Tula has been trouble from day one, avoid using it at all cost.
Do you think my entire trouble shooting process was done entirely on camera? That wasn't me shooting it when it showed the sloppy trigger technique.
polymorpheous
02-21-12, 15:15
Do you think my entire trouble shooting process was done entirely on camera? That wasn't me shooting it when it showed the sloppy trigger technique.
So what was your trouble shooting process?
So what was your trouble shooting process?
Done on camera and off camera, I tried different magazines same result. Added additional lube to the bolt carrier. Same result. Cleaned the rifle a second time. The bolt started to hold open after the last shot with brassed cased ammo. There was excess packing grease from the factory I believe that might have caused the bolt to fail from locking back. I tried the SP-1 bolt carrier in the rifle and it fed steel ammo then. I never could get the rifle to feed steel cased ammo with the factory bolt though. I suppose I could start fooling around with different buffers and different parts, but I don't really care enough to do that.
Did you really watch the video?. It jams with the PMAG too. I showed it.
Jam goes on your bread. It is called a malfunction (FYI).
Yes, I watched the video. The Mag problem was always the secondary problem after the BCG/Gas leak problem.
C4
Jam goes on your bread. It is called a malfunction (FYI).
Yes, I watched the video. The Mag problem was always the secondary problem after the BCG/Gas leak problem.
C4
You say tomato, I say tomahto.
You say tomato, I say tomahto.
No. It is called using the proper terminology.
Have you ever attended a basic carbine school?
C4
Esh, you needn't bother posting in this thread again.
If you don't want to learn anything, you can do that without hitting the Submit button and proving it to everybody that's reading this.
Folks are making genuine attempts to help you, and you're responding by getting surly, so just stop.
Here's something that may or may not help you out in the future: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=70019
I think I am late asking this but is esh serious? :suicide:
You say tomato, I say tomahto.
No.
Words matter. When dealing with a higher level of enthusiast or professional they matter even more. Using words incorrectly, like "jam" when you mean "malfunction", is an indicator of an unsophisticated or ignorant person. Go on a construction site and talk about "cinder blocks" or "plaster board" and we will very quickly understand that you don't know shit from brown bread. Use those terms while lecturing people and acting like you know what you're talking about and we'll know that you are a jackass that doesn't know shit from brown bread.
Just like saying "jam" when you mean "malfunction" and trying to convince people that in spite of this you know what you're talking about.
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