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I am looking for some advise,
I have been looking at the threads in the painted gun section and I am really impressed. I would like to do a desert paint scheme on my DD and I really like the pics of the ones that look like fish net??? ( I dont know what to use so im just speculating)
I really dont want to spend 100 or so bucks on a duracoat unless that is absolutely necessary, so any input would be awesome
Brownells Alumahyde II has yielded some fine results.
I would imagine a mix of Coyote, Tan and Earth Brown would give you the desert paint scheme that you want.
All you need to know about cheap paint jobs:
http://lightfighter.net/eve/forums/a...61/m/143106357
And yes, fishnet is what I'm guessing most people use for that look. I used laundry net bags (because I already had some) - but they were a pain as you had all the extra netting to account for...
I used to be super picky about painting my rifles (lots of prep, duracoat, etc). Now I just degrease, tape what needs it, and spray that baby with Krylon. If I don't like it its easy to change or paint over.
Does not hurt my feelings to use the rifle and scratch it up either. I will say this method is probably not for everyone.
JR,
PM me when you have time. I will show you how to do it and some of the best stuff to use. I personally use Brownells Alumahyde for the base coat and then Krylon or Aervoe.
There is a surplus store on Northern ave. that sells multi colors of the Aervoe stuff.
I went to my local Walmart and picked up a wire basket Minnow Trap. I snipped it apart and use that mesh for my paint jobs.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...CAcQ8wIwADgA#p
That did this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2967662...7623800686047/
Since then, I've found discarded pieces of guttering covers that have a similar mesh, just a tad smaller that the Minnow Trap to mix things up a bit on a paint job.
I've heard of people using the plastic mesh bags onions come in, and scrim nets too.
As for paint, I just use Krylon camo paints. Krylon also has a colour called "Terracotta" I think it's called, that is for all intents and purposes, Coyote Brown.
That M&P15-22 paint job probably only cost me ~$30.
Fishnet hose is the way to go. No worries about it bunching up or falling slack off the gun like a laundry bag.
Other than that it's simple. Degrease, mask off, lay down a basecoat in the color of your choice, then apply your pattern.
Good info/links. Thanks.
Nice to see that they completely overthought the process. Totally what I expected from them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quib
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iraqgunz
Overthought how? Are those not valid concerns? Pretty basic masking process no?
At least your "ordinary" soldier has a chance at painting his weapon...now that it is actually authorized at higher levels.
But you are correct, they standardized/militarized "just rattle can it".
Compared to the thread Pat Rogers put together and some other posts I've seen around discussing the how-to's, yes the PEO Soldier article is over complicated. Of course, I think the major assumption is that you understand how to spray paint vs flood paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quib
The who process should take very little time.
If you go to page 4 of the above Lightfighter link before Pat closed the thread, the NVG pics of a painted vs unpainted carbine are pretty interesting.
I painted my FAL and mid-length with Krylon. Would like to try the Aervoe on my carbine and compare how the hold up.
My philosophy as well. Takes me about 20 minutes total time using FS595 color match paint by Aervoe. Nice texture, finish, dries fast, wears slowly. It will wear through but shouldn't chip if the paint is layered on and not flooded with 1 or 2 thick coats.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmillanman5
The PEO article was written as a guidance outlining the basics of weapons painting for those who may be unfamiliar with the process.
Being a person who comes from a background where written procedures must be followed, I think the article highlights some good points for the soldier to bear in mind and I can appreciate the information.
My apologies if the article does not fit this thread, or assist the OP with any questions he may have had. :)
That PEO Soldier guidance is hysterical, and not in the "ha-ha funny" way. In the "chemical imbalance" way. Neurotic and ritualized.
Example: PEO Soldier is the same entity that gave the world ACU uniforms.
It's nowhere near that complex a process. Don't follow it unless you think painting a gun should take 2 days. It's spray-paint, not cold fusion.
It's not that the guidance doesn't belong, in and of itself, it just doesn't belong any more than any other poorly-thought-out, needlessly risk-averse procedure belongs anywhere.
This is a 20 minute job with rattle cans and paper stencils:
You can see some wear along the stock, magwell and muzzle
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/.../391056001.jpg
Netting from an Asian supermarket.. I think it's what they wrap noodles with.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/.../391056003.jpg
Speaking of my own experience I didn't apply that much effort in doing any of the weapons that I have painted and they have all turned out good. None of the operational parts were affected either.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quib
Taping the barrel, forward assist, trigger, and pretty much all exposed steel parts is waaaaay overkill. The only thing you should tape is the serial numbers, lenses on the optics, and the bore. They took something retarded simple and made it... wait for it... retarded. I know Joe can **** up anything, and can appreciate making it a step by step process, but by adding so many worthless steps it just makes it uber complicated. The Pat Rogers post on LF.net is right on and about as complicated as it should get.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quib
The call to allow normal line units to paint their weapons is still up to the big wigs, and last I heard my old unit that's in Afghanistan right now is only allowed to paint their plastic furniture and not the entire weapon. While it helps a little, black guns stick out like a pedophile on a playground in Afghanistan... doesn't help that they still haven't been issued Multicam yet either despite all the media coverage regarding it.
ETA here's a (really bad) pic of my old M4 which I had painted just the furniture with krylon / issue spray paint and some thin netting after about 8 months of regular field problems / training.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...herz/011-4.jpg
I just taped off my Irons enough that I still retained a black sight picture.
FWIW our armorers found rust under the paint on some of our Kryloned guns. It may not be an issue in AIF or Afghanistan but places like Thailand and the Phillipines are a little more rust-promoting. Those PEO Soldier directions look like they're trying to avoid letting rust develop on the steel parts. Not a bad idea if you're willing to put in an extra 30 minutes of prep time. Hell if you're putting together your own rifle you could even paint the receivers, rail, and plastic before you assemble everything else.
HOLD THE PHONE.... we agree on something :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Iraqgunz
I have used a the Aervoe stuff a couple of times. I painted a bike frame and a Maglight and they have held up awesomely.
That's where the aluma-hyde comes in as the base coat. The end user probably didn't touch up the weapon after some of the paint on the wear areas got knocked off.Quote:
Originally Posted by mkmckinley
no need to overthink these things. unless you're trying to paint a safe queen. if you "use" it, it will get worn, it will get dinged, it will get scratches. touch it up and drive on, if it bothers you. if i had access to aervoe, i'd use it
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h3...skecamo003.jpg
+ 15 mins =
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2516/...ea56681b_b.jpg
spray it with some brake cleaner or denatured alcohol, close the lenses on the aimpoints, put a pinch of tape on the rear sight, a pinch on the front post, and stick a mag in the magwell. don't point the paint into the trigger hole in the lower. don't point it in the barrel. no other real prep needed
I've said it before about your weapons and I'll say it again, awesome work! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by theJanitor
I've got a paint article on m4s coming on my blog soon as I get time to post. I just bombed my Troy not long ago.
Basically all you're trying to do is break up silhouette. We did studies at my old place and it doesn't matter if you use stencils/netting/leaves/whatever, you really just need to have SOME contrasting colors, with dark colors being on the edges of the weapon, and in no pattern. Base coat should always be light tan even if your in green woods. This is hard to explain in words but there is a reason all sniper systems start with a light color base coat.
Common sense on the tape up. The most common overlooked section is the safety selector (both sides) and end of barrel.
From the word go, it should take maybe 30 minutes. Taping takes way longer than painting. As for what paint, it doesn't matter, it all goes away with hard use somewhat, and that actually blends better than anything.