Red Dots on Carry Wheelygats

I’ve been broadening my horizons by carrying a DA revolver. And contemplating exploring a IWB gun, just because. I’m considering roughly 2.5”-3”, 5-6 shot steel-framed guns in .38 Special, .357M or .327M. I’d probably consider other calibers like 9mm. Preferably no hammer, to save my Dremel some work. I’d like it to be speedoader-friendly, but thats not really a dealbreaker since I’ll probably just do strips.

Such as a J-frame, SP-101, K6s, or whatever Colt does in that category. Cobra, I think.

The question, though: are there guns fitting this description that I should gravitate to for ease of RMR mounting? And ones I should avoid? The ones with proper rear sights instead of a trench seem like they’d be the way to go, but my knowledge is lacking. If goonsmiffing is required, are there any recommendations for a machine shop or gunsmith for any of these? Maybe someone sells one already ready to run?

If it makes a difference, I also plan on getting a larger gun to shoot the snot out of, like a L-Comp or GP100 and also putting a RMR on it.

You wont be able to get the gun into, and certainly not easily out of, your pocket with an optic on it.

But I'd love some more options for mounting optics on small / medium revolvers!

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Originally Posted by Ron3

You wont be able to get the gun into, and certainly not easily out of, your pocket with an optic on it.

But I'd love some more options for mounting optics on small / medium revolvers!

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This would be an Inside The Waistband holster, like I use with a Glock 19. I’m keeping the terrible sights intact on my Airweight for pocket carry(although I may get the barrel re-clocked, as it is slightly canted). Essentially, what I’m seeking is the G19 of revolvers for holster carry.

Waiting on the doc today, I was reading about the SW 632. The Carry Comp and the Pro models would probably be an excellent choice, assuming I can find one and easily put a RMR on it. I was considering a K frame, but the cylinders are kinda bulky for IWB, and they’re pretty heavy, too. I’d draw the line on desired weight somewhere between a steel J and a steel K.

OK, I did some more googling and reading. Things like this exist:

https://jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPA-RR
https://allchingunparts.com/products...cro-mount.html https://allchingunparts.com/products...n-c-mount.html https://allchingunparts.com/products...o-holosun.html https://allchingunparts.com/products/s-w-j-frame.html

For J frames and SP101s, there are adapters for the adjustable sight models, like the (discontinued) 632 Carry Comp https://gunblast.com/SW-632CCP.htm and 60 Pro https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/model-60-0. Of course, for a no-drill install, the J frame must have a certain tapped frame from the factory under the rear sight and no one seems to know which have that. For the SP101, it must be an elevation and windage adjustable model. So that narrows the SP101 down to a Lipsey’s exclusive 3” 5 shot .357. https://ruger.com/products/sp101/specSheets/15707.html Its a quarter pound heavier than the Model 60 Pro, but I think its still in the acceptable range, at 27oz. Oh, and not all of the adapters fit a RMR. They fit primarily models I had never heard of and cheapos. But they fit a couple that might work out, like the J-Point, Delta Point and Sheild. If anyone here has much experience with the battery life and durability of these, I’d love to hear about it.

I wasn’t able to find anything at all specifically made for the K6s or the King Cobra. I did see an adapter for Kimber 1911s that look like they might fit, but there was no info on that. Its too bad, the K6s seems like it’d be pretty good, and the Colt looks good on paper, as well.

I also found a couple brands of adapters that fit “Novak” dovetails. https://jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPA-NV But I put that in quotes because one of those manufacturers warns that many factory “Novak” dovetails are not properly dimensioned and won’t work.

If I stepped up to a K Frame, those look super easy to mount basically anything to, but, I think its a little bigger than I want.

Sorry to blast y’all with all these links and wall of text. I want to be able to reference here later as I continue to slowly figure this out.

I'd be interested for my late model King Cobra and LCR .327.

Would be fun on my Taurus 431, too, but I don't see how it would attach without drilling.

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Originally Posted by Ron3

I'd be interested for my late model King Cobra and LCR .327.

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Do those appear to be tapped? I’ve got a buddy with a .327 LCR I could take a look at, but I don’t think its readily set up for optics.

If you have calipers, (or a ruler and a good eye) would you mind sharing the width of the King Cobra cylinder?

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Originally Posted by 1168

Do those appear to be tapped? I’ve got a buddy with a .327 LCR I could take a look at, but I don’t think its readily set up for optics.

If you have calipers, (or a ruler and a good eye) would you mind sharing the width of the King Cobra cylinder?

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They are not tapped, no.

I do have calipers and will get that measurement for ya.

If you got a concealed hammer revolver, I am wondering if the Leupold Delta micro could be modified to work.

Another consideration is breaking the frame integrity of an aluminum framed revolver (442/642/etc).

Not sure how that would fare, long term. Slide that are milled on semi-autos are all steel of some variety.

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Originally Posted by RHINOWSO

Another consideration is breaking the frame integrity of an aluminum framed revolver (442/642/etc).

Not sure how that would fare, long term. Slide that are milled on semi-autos are all steel of some variety.

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For sure. To be clear, I have no intentions to tap my 442… I don’t think thats viable.

I’m looking for roughly 2.5”-3”, 5-6 shot steel-framed guns. I’d consider an alloy framed six-shot if I could do this without drilling, but I don’t think that exists.

Imma clean up the OP so that this doesn’t keep coming up.

How long will we have to wait before a revolver maker integrates a red dot mounting area on the top strap of a frame? The milling for an Aimpoint ACRO would be pretty easy to integrate without many dimensional changes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 1168

Do those appear to be tapped? I’ve got a buddy with a .327 LCR I could take a look at, but I don’t think its readily set up for optics.

If you have calipers, (or a ruler and a good eye) would you mind sharing the width of the King Cobra cylinder?

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I'm getting just under 1.4 inches to 1.4 inches with my cylinder and calipers.

I looked it up and found 1.4 in. That seems to be the case.