Printable View
Recently bought a Hohosun 530 to put on an ar pistol. Really, really satisfying to shoot. Then, front lens cover started popping open. Then. It would not snap completely shut. Then, it wouldn't stay closed at all. Was about to call em to whine when I discovered that if the killiflash isn't screwed all the way in, the cover will not snap closed. Problem solved for now....
Fwiw.....
I have a 530. It's definitely well made, tough, and does what it's supposed to. It does seem to be a bit on the heavy and bulky side though. I don't think I'd buy another.
Yeah, it's my first red dot. It works fine.... But.... Angle of light front or rear tends to make the killiflash too visible. Right light from rear gives red light smear whether it's on or not. Found it interesting that the killiflash wasn't tightened down and that it had loosened significantly in just the 5 or 600 rounds I had put through it. Disappointed in extreme low light sight picture (as compared to some other optics I have). In the end, it'll do for this E. Fudd....
I took all the killflashes off all my Holosuns.
I was fighting that urge. Your reasons?
Reasons were probably threefold:Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerjerk
First, removing the killflash improves, very noticeably, the brightness of the image through the RDS.
Second, I keep my see through flip covers up all the time, to protect the lenses, so any potential advantage the killflash may have is nullified by the presence of the reflective lens cover.
Third, I don't really use my weapons in combat situations where a killflash may be of some advantage.
Besides all that, I can easily replace them if I ever deem it necessary.
Makes good sense. I was worried I'd lose it it I took it off, but I rekon if I ever actually needed it, I'll be having much bigger problems.....
Edit: big improvement in sight picture. Thanks for talking me into removing it!
Nice. You're welcome.Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerjerk
Hey, georgeib, if you're still out there, do you have any of the auto-adjusters? I find myself frequently adjusting intensity. I had dodged the auto adjusting sights because of the extra gadetry and envisioning situations like the sight adjusting to you (the optic) in the deep shade and with the target being in full sun, would the reticle be bright enough for comfortable targeting?
With all my rifle mounted Holosuns, I specifically bought only non-solar units, for the same reasons as you. I keep the adjustment set at a medium setting that is probably a bit bright for lower light indoor work, but a little dim in bright sunlight. One button press up or down gets me exactly where I need to be.Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerjerk
With all my pistol mounted ones, I turn off the auto brightness for all with the exception of the SCS 320 mounted on a P226. That one has a much smarter auto-brightness that takes both the target and shooter's area brightness into consideration, and works very well. Besides, as it doesn't have a removable battery, it is solar only and essentially non-adjustable.
Holosun does have a newer release auto-brightness rifle RDS too, that uses the smarter "at target" brightness to adjust itself. The SCRS is tiny, uses a built in battery, and has a 509T footprint. Would make for a good offset RDS to an LVPO.
Would you have a favorite? Say for a primary sight on a 16 incher?
A favorite LVPO, or RDS? Assuming you mean RDS, the answer is probably my HE515-RD. But the reality is that out of 10 Holosuns, I've only had an issue with the first one I bought about 10 years ago. The brightness buttons starting working sporadically, and they gave me a free upgrade to a HS515GM, of which I have a pair now.Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerjerk
As to favorite LVPO... the sky is the limit really. I am quite happy with my Primary Arms PLX Compact though.
Oops. You got it. Red dot Holosun. Considering pulling a PA 1-8 and red dotting. For me, the 1-8 will only focus shy of 7x at 100. 200+ it focuses at 8. Thought I liked the chevron, but now I'm not so sure. Main thing is I can't see holes in paper at 100 unless light is right. It is just fine for bottles/cans, but.... I am happy with a couple of lpvos on other rifles.... Anyway, thanks, again, and best to you/yours.
You got it man. Same to you and yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerjerk
Double oops. On your green lit, does it flare out into the lens at night like the green did on a vortex 3.5 I used to have? (You know, the eye sees green best in low light, yada yada...) Switched it to red and life became crisp and well defined.....
Probably toss in a flashlight mounted on the forearm under the second reason and also making a kill flash neither here nor there on the third.Quote:
Originally Posted by georgeib
The SCS 320, which is the only green dot I have, does seem to flare more than any of the red dots in the same conditions at similar brightness settings. I do have astigmatism in both eyes, so I've grown to ignore the flare and just use the center of the dot as my aiming point. I mean, it's not like an MOA or 2 is going to change my ability to hit what I'm aiming for, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerjerk
If I am trying to make a more precise hit with a rifle at distance using the an RDS (all my rifle dots are red only), I can turn the brightness down to where the dot is tiny anyway. As it is, there is much less flare, if any at all, when shooting outdoors in bright conditions.
Do you I have an astigmatism? Sounds kinda like mine which is(apparently the opposite of most) worse with a green dot. I can use a green SCS(although not as crisp as red), but looked through a Sig Romeo 4 green that had hold over dots that probably go over my limit with lots of flares coming out of all the dots.Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerjerk
Yeah, good point.Quote:
Originally Posted by jsbhike
Yep. Stigmatized here. Sigs are disorienting at best, traumatizing at worst for me. I believe I am making out little dots at lo setting on my Holosun. Higher settings, they seem to grow together into a solid (but less than distinct) reticle.
I like the way you think, jsbhike. I had always thought the killflash was to keep mohammud hathcockovich from shooting you in the eye (and damaging your scope). Was aware red dot visible from front in dark, but tonight I'll have to test for projection, also......
Not a scientific test, but:
Unassisted naked (old) eyes/no night vision in the mostly dark back yard:
From/at the rear:
Brightest setting: light projected approx 10ft from rear of optic to my wood fence. Reticle extremely visible
Bright side of usable setting for low light: no projection. Reticle readily visible
From/at muzzle end:
Brightest setting: light projected maybe 1ft. forward of objective. Dot/reticle readily visible looking from muzzle to objective lens.
Bright side of usable low light setting: no projection of light, reticle not readily visible from muzzle end.
This without killflash installed and covers up....
Interesting, thanks for posting that. If you weren't already aware, however, the purpose of the killflash isn't so much to keep the reticle from being visible from the muzzle end, but rather to hide reflections from the objective lens which can compromise your position to an enemy. A killflash is also known as an ARD, an Anti Reflection Device. FWIW.Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerjerk
ARD! That's the term I was trying to remember! Yeah, lens reflection is what I was referring to with the earlier "hathcockovich" remark. Carlos Hathcock, White Feather, is reputed to have shot a VC sniper in the eye (through the VC's scope) because the objective lens reflection was what Hathcock could see! Comments earlier in the thread had me wondering just how visible an illuminated optic is in the dark and how the ARD might affect illuminated reticle visibility to the "enemy". I may get around to re-installing the ARD to compare... Or not.... Take care
Problem is a reddot objective lense is slanted so any reflection you see would be from being lower than shooter. Stay in the dark vs being in the light and reflection should be a mute issue.
Yep. I guess the punchline would be don't be observing from your nighttime hide with your 530 cranked up to it's brightest😎
I picked up a Kill Flash for an Aimpoint PRO intending it as a lens protector since I didn't care for their transparent covers and ditched it quick after seeing how dim the sight picture became.Quote:
Originally Posted by georgeib
Spun the Holosun ARDs off as soon as I got them for the same reason. As has been pointed, those are really silly since the Holosuns come with(excellent in my opinion) actual glass flip lens covers front and rear.
Ok. Couldn't stand it. Just took gun/530 out in dark backyard and set it on a table. Brightest setting, I could still easily see red dot at 37 long paces (limited by fence) from muzzle end. Lower night compatible setting, not visible. Couple of clicks higher, visible to maybe 4ft. I was still directly in front of rifle. It seems that slanted lens just positioned dot lower in the sight as in not centered in objective lens as you view from front. ARD not installed, but lenscap up.
As was said earlier, this shouldn't have any effect on who wins.....
Thought the ARD/kill flash was to reduce reflections from being seen from the glass, not blocking the reflex dot in the optic from being seen from the front.
That's my take. I just got to wondering about how visible that red light was at night. Not so much if the ARD hides the red light. Seems to be agreement that it darkens the sight picture. I think I have found that at a "night setting", there probably isn't any worry about the lighted optic giving you away with or without the ARD installed. Of course I don't know anything about night vision equipment.....