Right, you have to also do what you mentioned. I was adding to it, not giving an alternative. People have reported the threading of the nut not being the same as an AR.Quote:
Originally Posted by QuietShootr
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Right, you have to also do what you mentioned. I was adding to it, not giving an alternative. People have reported the threading of the nut not being the same as an AR.Quote:
Originally Posted by QuietShootr
Integrated the MS3 Sling with my 16S in a manner that still allows the ability to transition without getting hung.
http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/t...t/a997d735.jpg
http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/t...t/7a1ce328.jpg
http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/t...t/b60e9fba.jpg
Clint
Wrong thread for comments.
My only suggestion is running gutted 550 cord over the shackle. Just like a 249, no matter how little of metal to metal contact you have, it will eventually wear through a FN sling attachment point.Quote:
Originally Posted by phester
Everyone running a SCAR knows how frustrated it is at times trying to find AR accessories to fit our rifle, sometimes it works, and often times it doesn't. For the most part, I'll find a substitution that works eventually. The only thing that has never completely satisfied me no matter how many different things I try is this; the sling solution. There's always be something about it I could not live with.Quote:
Originally Posted by N.Franklin
N. Franklin, that sentence of yours has just changed that. You saved me( and hopefully many others who like to do the same thing) tons of headache, worries, and money( like its a freakin' GEICO insurance commercial)
Thanks a lot, man.
Thanks for the recommendation but my gun only rides on a sling for limited periods during drills, competition and an occasional class(I'm an old fart who only plays two or three times a month). The issue that I have had is finding an attachment that allows smooth rotation on all axis. The D clevis limits the MS3 clamp to one axis with some friction and the clevis compensates by allowing all 3 freely. I understand the 550 cord buffer idea but the added friction binds the movement of the clevis enough to cause issues. I tried the key ring, snap shackle, threaded link and snap swivel and had each method bind during shouldering and transition.Quote:
Originally Posted by N.Franklin
While this attachment method may be less than ideal for regular carry and give company armorers gritty drawers it works for me.
Happy Shooting,
Clint
I have done a post on FN forum but figured I would add it here, I have converted (easily) over 18 FAL Metric Magazines for my Scar 17 and they run great
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...IMG_0001-7.jpg
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...R/IMG_0128.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...R/IMGA0655.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=0dNwx71IsJ8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=TxLxuk3Q_uM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=Dg_epQC5880
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=ocghE2RAX_M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=7h5IhFstPZ0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=XMPjKS90rQM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=uKkxcScT0w4
make sure you sand the feed lips to not scratch your rounds as the feed
Hope this helps
I found that when I installed my PWS rail and then torqued the barrel screws properly (62 IN Lbs in an alternating fashion left side then right side starting from the back going forward) my groups tightened up a little. I dont know if they do this at the factory, i would think they do, and it is their instructions, however I do get better groups now. Seekonk makes a BT-2L T handle wrench that is set for 62 pounds and works well. Its a T-25 Torx bit BTW.
Maybe I lined myself up correctly behind the stock (and/or) - had a better cheek weld; a drunk pulled a hit and run on me at 50+ mph and broke a few of my rear molars and thoracic vertebre, which made anything but pistol shooting REAL painful.
...but after installing the FN front rail and a Geissele trigger and making sure everything was re-torqued to spec, viola, I shot one ragged hole with about 200 rounds the day after the install of the rail and trigger!
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...s/48040fce.jpg
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...s/ae4f774b.jpg
Need to get on the rear sling mod next; "rounded loop" seems like easiest and most efficient solution as I have the HK Hooks on my sling.
Thanks for all your help in finding the best mods to make this SCAR 16S be my g2g rifle; actually, I need more rounds through my OBR before this decision is made. But this post's experts have been a huge help in solving the few vexing probs this rifle gave me out of the shipping box!
Fenn
I'd like to add a small observation with regard to the binding of hooks and rings in the SCAR sling points that occurs during transitions.
After playing around with several types of hooks, rings, and just about every other type of hardware I could find, I noticed that just about all of them bind or grind to one extent or another.
I believe a major cause of this, beside the small size of the opening, is the sharp squared edges on the inside of the of the SCAR mount points. They seem to bite or snag some even on rounded rings.
I have not had time to test this out on one of my rifles by taking a dremel to them, but I will and I expect it to help a little.
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Also, for California people, use the Raddlock bullet button. It is FAR better than the other options and allows you to keep the ORIGINAL mag release hardware in place and is therefore more easily reversable. You'll see what I mean when you get one.
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BTW - Thanks for all the great tips.