How to: Removing a stuck brass case from a sizing die.

Great tutorial. I've been reloading for over 35 years & only had two cases get stuck ( both 223/5.56 & in two consecutive days!) For all the hassle of clearing the stuck case, I just toss it & buy another die. FWIW, I use Hornady one shot exclusively.

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Originally Posted by Delta-3

Great tutorial. I've been reloading for over 35 years & only had two cases get stuck ( both 223/5.56 & in two consecutive days!) For all the hassle of clearing the stuck case, I just toss it & buy another die. FWIW, I use Hornady one shot exclusively.

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A reloader should NEVER be anywhere near a stuck case with .223. I wish I could set you up on my machine for a handful of cases to show you how shitty one shot is compared to good lube and a carbide die....

But even on my regular steel rifle sizing dies.... DCL keeps the cases flowing like the old hot knife through butter.

Nice and easy to follow tutorial. I'm sure I'll need it one of these days! Stuff happens.

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Originally Posted by Iraqgunz

I was asked to pass this along by another member. I am not a reloader so I can't GUARANTEE the accuracy. Someone else will surely be able to.


The OP states that the drill size for a 1/4 X 20 tap is a 1/4" drill, which we know will swallow a 1/4 X 20 bolt.

The correct drill size for a 1/4 X 20 tap is a #7 drill, decimal equivalent is .2010

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I goofed up and listed it as a 1/4" drill bit. Its not a 1/4" drill bit. If you used a 1/4" bit then it would remove too much metal and you couldnt thread it with the 1/4" tap.

I checked the drill bit I used and it is #3 drill bit. I do not know it that is mislabeled because the machining books state to use a #7 bit for the 1/4-20 tpi tap.
I have another Kobalt brand 1/4-20 tap that was still in the package and includes the drill bit and it's also listed as #3 drill bit.

Once I have more clarification then Ill update the original post. to the correct size drill bit to use.
For now I would just recommend to purchase the tap and drill bit together as a packaged deal so you know you get the correct sized drill bit.

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Originally Posted by batman4706

I just remove the decapping assembly and use a punch to knock the case out.

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Me too. Done it several times. No problem.

One shot sucks.

Ok, I've learned something new today. The correct bit to use is a #7. My kit that I bought came with a #3 bit.

Basically the way it was explained to me is you want 75% metal for the threads to cut into and the #7 bit give you the correct 75% as opposed to the #3 bit only give you about 50% metal to thread into.

Also another note is kroil is a penetrating oil so a cutting oil would work better for the tap to thread the brass.
Thanks Frank for the info and bringing this to my attention.

-Ryan.

This thread reminds me why I like the Dillon Carbide Sizing Dies; if a case gets stuck just screw down the de-priming assembly to the bottom and the case will pop free. ;-)

This thread is making me nuts. There's no need to EVER get a case stuck. :suicide:

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Originally Posted by AR10TFn

Ace4059 - great information, IIRC RCBS sells a kit similar to the items you are using. As for case lube, a friend of mine [a record holder in F-class uses hornady 1 shot exclusively -he tosses the cases in a vibratory cleaner to remove the lube after sizing] I have used Imperial wax for the past 3-4 years, after trying rcbs and pad, one shot -both pump and spray. My stuck case a 5.56 in a RCBS X-die was using spray one shot, but I had more problems with the portable air pump for car tires, imop the pump is monkey pee with a bit of lanolin.:p

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These portable air pumps that we have presented today are all top of the line, fully functioning, versatile and above all, portable, so in case you do lose air while driving, you can at least give yourself a fist pump, enough to get you to a garage or home.