Primary Arms 1-6x Gen 3 Scope

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01-12-19, 07:50
joeg26er

hmmm - at that price I'm torn between the P4XI and Vortex Razor...
01-12-19, 08:35
jsbhike

Would like a Razor. May go for it eventually.

Have the VX-R Hog and the P4XI. Glass clarity and brightness are just about identical. Dot intensity is equal and bright.

VXR weight is a biggy over the P4XI.

VXR motion activation is a plus, although the Steiner may have a longer battery life. I do prefer the P4XI off stops between intensities and not having to cycle through all settings to get back again as with VXR single switch.

VXR magnification switch is short, smooth and has a bump that is easy to use. P4XI is a longer arc and needs added leverage to even come close.

The VXR 1.3 or 1.4? Low end is a major issue for some.

Both have very long eye relief. Have the VXR in an Aero SPR mount which just barely allows NTCH cheek weld. Due to the adjustment bell location on the P4XI I had to go with an ADM extended cantilever to get it as far forward as I wanted.
01-12-19, 08:36
prepare

Quote:

Originally Posted by joeg26er

hmmm - at that price I'm torn between the P4XI and Vortex Razor...

I have a Razor that I'm more than happy with. I wanted a lighter weight optic though that performs well and is still durable enough for duty optic.
01-13-19, 14:11
RHINOWSO

VXR / Mark AR from Leupold are decent optics, very lightweight typically but you never get close to 1x.

Sure it's usable but I think true 1x is very different from 1.25 or 1.5x.
07-27-19, 08:41
vandal5

In another thread I was asked for some pics of my Primary Arms 1-6 Gen3 w/ ACSS. This is the 5.56/.308/5.45x39 version.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...257f6b1838.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...85937ba5f6.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8206fb8e1d.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7e7e0f8078.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b7c146c263.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...18fb4f5c5d.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8b133356c9.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...437b2c80fc.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...79e3da3e03.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...449e3dc305.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f24d9e9f36.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...563e1479ed.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fdb23d58b8.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3e5e18a150.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bde89dc7b4.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f658a6f584.jpg
07-27-19, 08:47
vandal5

Here's a few more.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5e5a96d93f.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b4f3778883.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...02485e0e1b.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...20ba2df262.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...557def841d.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2c87b4ff67.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5985b9d55f.jpg

Adding another pic this was taken a few weeks ago have the scope set to max brightness. In person you could barely detect a hint of red. I think this was just before noon. Outside of these conditions the reticle is pretty bright.

Also if you happen to start getting g behind the scope but are not quite in the eyebox yet you would puck up the illumination as you settle into the right position.

If anyone cares to see that I could try to see if I could get a pic or video.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c68339630e.jpg
07-27-19, 21:27
RobertTheTexan

Quote:

Originally Posted by everready73

They are made in China, but i havent heard of very many issues at all with these. They have a lifetime warranty and PA service is awesome if you would need to use it.

That being said we are in a competitive market and there are some other good options that are more "duty grade' if you could spend up around $500. If i was buying a LPVO today i would be looking at

Steiner P4XI- This is a 1x4, but has german Schott glass, daylight bright reticle and very durable. DSG has sales on this and they can be found for around $475 if you look around

Burris XTR 2- Natchez has these on sale and they have a couple different options- Made in Phillipines i believe. Have a good glass and built like a tank

Primary Arms FFP Raptor- this is a FFP 1-6 that has a really good reticle and better glass than the standard gen 3 1-6

Burris RT6- good value pick for around $350- reports are great glass and good illumination

I know you posted this months ago, but I just wanted to comment on the XTR II. I’ve had three XTR II scopes. 5-25 FFP; 1.5-8 DFP (Dual Focal Plane) and 1-8 FFP. I have thoroughly enjoyed all 3 scopes, but my preference is the 1-8. Good damn grief that is a fine optic. It’s not for the panty waist shooter however, because along with the ruggedness it does carry some weight. I’ve never been one to complain about weight until I got my LMT MWS and it killed my support arm shoulder, however the 1-8 on my Noveske 14.5 or DD 12.5 is a dream. The glass is extremely clear, I really dig the reticle and the eye relief is tits up awesome. Pretty forgiving eye box as well.

However what led me here was Vandal posting pics of his PA 1-6 which I believe will be one of the next scopes I purchase. I only wish I had a decent comparison between the PA 1-6 and the Vortex PST Gen 2 1-6. I’m ok if the Vortex is better, it should be, I’m just curious how much better.... any intel on that? Also last question, is upgrading to the FFP on the PA worth is?
Oh and my really last last question. For those of you who have never use a BDC reticle, how long did it take you to become proficient with the ACSS? By proficient I mean snap shots at range and not having to hem and haw around figuring out what hash mark to sight on on. Thx!

Special thanks to Vandal for posting the pics up. You’re awesome.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
07-27-19, 23:13
jsbhike

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobertTheTexan

.

Also last question, is upgrading to the FFP on the PA worth is?
Oh and my really last last question. For those of you who have never use a BDC reticle, how long did it take you to become proficient with the ACSS? By proficient I mean snap shots at range and not having to hem and haw around figuring out what hash mark to sight on on. Thx!

Special thanks to Vandal for posting the pics up. You’re awesome.

Here is a thread that mentions the PA Raptor FFP.

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...ighlight=Focal

while I still haven't tried it, I have recently bought a PA 4-14 HUD DMR that is FFP. Haven't had a chance to play with it much, but the ACSS part isn't confusing/busy to look through.

The FFP part is not such a great idea imo. At 4x everything is tiny. Chevron turns in to a dot and I really don't see how the ranging features could be used at the low end in most conditions.
07-28-19, 13:45
vandal5

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsbhike

Here is a thread that mentions the PA Raptor FFP.

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...ighlight=Focal

while I still haven't tried it, I have recently bought a PA 4-14 HUD DMR that is FFP. Haven't had a chance to play with it much, but the ACSS part isn't confusing/busy to look through.

The FFP part is not such a great idea imo. At 4x everything is tiny. Chevron turns in to a dot and I really don't see how the ranging features could be used at the low end in most conditions.

Hey jsbhike,

I believe with a SFP reticle the elevation and windage are only correct at max zoom. I would think there would be times when you were not at 14x and still want to be able to use the reticle.

I had to give this some debate when choosing between the 1-6 and 1-8.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
07-28-19, 14:28
jsbhike

Quote:

Originally Posted by vandal5

Hey jsbhike,

I believe with a SFP reticle the elevation and windage are only correct at max zoom. I would think there would be times when you were not at 14x and still want to be able to use the reticle.

I had to give this some debate when choosing between the 1-6 and 1-8.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That is my understanding also that range finding and hold overs only work on a specific magnification level on sfp, usually max.

The catch with ffp, in my opinion, is that everything on the reticle shrinks and the end result is everything is ultra fine.

Setting it on 4x reminds me of the fine crosshairs on an old weaver K2.5 I have. In good light/solid background all is well, but as either of those dwindle the reticle rapidly becomes difficult to impossible to see.

With the ACSS, on 4x the chevron looks like a dot most ofvthe time. Today was the first day with bright light I have played with it and I can make out that it is triangular, but the open chevron body appears solid. In low light it just looks like an out of round dot.

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