Any recommendation on a good leather conditioner/preservative? I recently got new sheaths for both my BAK7 and my hatchet. The hatchet sheath is in the raw and a bit stiff and tight. I think it needs to be soften up just a bit for a smoother fit.
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Any recommendation on a good leather conditioner/preservative? I recently got new sheaths for both my BAK7 and my hatchet. The hatchet sheath is in the raw and a bit stiff and tight. I think it needs to be soften up just a bit for a smoother fit.
I like Bicks and mink oil. And olive oil is an amazing leather preservative just don’t use it on leather that comes into contact with clothes.
Thanks. Mink oil I've heard of, Bick's I'll look up. I'll stay away from the olive oil since my knife and possibly my hatch sheath will come in contact with my clothes.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRAMBONE
I’ve been told Ballistol is really good for leather.
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Sporting goods stores sell oil for baseball gloves. Also, a western wear store will have something for leather boots. Either would be good for a sheath.
Bicks as mentioned is my goto for everything leather except sheaths just to restore leather oils and softness. While oil may soften the sheath as well, be careful as the sheath may stretch out and not fit the hatchet tightly enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by TomMcC
For sheaths I use Obeanufs treatment very lightly. You can leave the leather item in the sun for a bit (inside or out) to warm it up and this will impregnate the leather with an oil/beeswax formula that conditions and protects against moisture and the elements. It's what firefighters use to protect their boots and gear. If you overuse it can become a gloppy mess that solidifies and comes off on your other gear.
As all above. Mink oil, saddle soap, quality leather conditioners. Stay away from the synthetics.
I use Obenaufs and Feibings Aussie. I like the Obenaufs oil, and use it for sheaths and axe covers. I try to work it inside as well as out, and I also add a little to the blade/bit and insert it, then remove and wipe off excess later, as it wont harm anything.
The Aussie is a paste (probably much like Obenaufs heavy duty, but I havent used that yet) and really needs the leather to be warm so it sort of "melts in". I rub this in thoroughly and let it sit so the friction and hand warmth works great, and if I have a chance I try to then heat it back up (sun or oven at low setting with a door open so it doesnt get above 120 or 130) to melt out any of the waxes and such. Rub that in again with a cloth to buff off any excess and I find it works great.
I find mink oil to be quite obnoxious to my sense of smell, so while I do use it occasionally, I generally stick with the above two, or boot conditioner I got from a Tandy Leather a while back for quick application.
Saddle soap to clean with then use Neutral boot polish. Mink oil if you want to soften it a little.
Been awhile since I read the article, but I seem to recall the best choice of leather care may be dependent on how the leather was tanned along with how you want it to perform. An example, you wouldn't want a treatment that will make gloves soft and supple any where near a wet molded holster.
This is an "old school" solution but works: unsalted butter.
The old time, hand-made saddle makers recommended this. I have a 30+ year old saddle that's never had anything but unsalted butter used on it and it looks new.
One I forgot is neatsfoot oil. I know a lot of people that swear by it for saddles and tack.
No smell or greasiness? I would think an animal fat might go rancid over the years, but no?Quote:
Originally Posted by LDM
Thanks everyone for you replies.
The leather should be warm, but not hot.
You rub the butter in and it is absorbed. Moisturizes the leather.
This really only works on a leather that has not had a varnish or finish applied like most pistol holsters.
Messy? yes. Smelly? not really, the leather which absorbs it.
+1 For Obenauf’s Heavy Duty LP and their their water shield as well. Used both extensively in a boots soaked in salt water environment and can attest to how well it helped my boots hold up. I’ve also used it on some Saddleback Leather products I own, even over the owner’s penchant to “chamberlains leather milk”. I found that product to make the leather look chalky as it’s a water based. Personally, I stay away from mink and neatsfoot, though.
The classics, like mink oil & saddlesoap...but yes, Ballistol is GREAT on leather.Quote:
Originally Posted by just a scout
I've been using some this Bee Balm, which works pretty well: https://beyondclothing.com/products/beyond-bee-balm. I've used in on my Beyond gloves, other leather work gloves, and some other leather products. Handy container, low viscosity and no leaks. Eucalyptus smells pleasant. No ill effects on anything yet.
Bickmore Apache Oil for most of my boots and leather rifle slings. Best stuff!!!
Got a little "squeek" in some Merrells I use in the field. They are a mix of some leather and some fabric. Fabric will be safe is I get some kiwi or something similar accidentally on them won't it?
Sno Seal should work well for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowdown3