Question regarding 100m zeroing

In the last several weeks I’ve purchased three ACOGs, as recommended by members of this sub forum, and have begun the process of zeroing them at 100m. I also have an ATACR 1-8x coming too.

A couple of points:
1. I’ve never zeroed beyond 50m because I typically shoot with red dot and holographic sights with magnifiers (this is my only real experience with magnified optics aside from two deployments where I used the TA31F in anger.
2. I zero while in the prone and off of sandbags, a hold over from 20 years in the Army.
3. While in the Army, my Infantry Battalions always zeroed red dot sights, irons and ACOGs at 25m.

So, I want the best zero possible for these new optics (2 on 14.5” ARs and one on a 20”). Do you all think I should abandon my old habit of zeroing off of sandbags and go with a lead sled? If so, which shooting rest(s) do you recommend since I’ve never used one? Are there any particular targets you recommend for the task? I’ve been using the zeroing targets Aimpoint includes with their optics and standard Army 25m zero targets to zero at 50m.

Finally, I appreciate any ACOG-centric advice, i.e. TTPs not found in the manual. For instance, today I learned from an old thread that I should fire one off-target round after making windage/elevation adjustments to preclude “stacked failed adjustments” (coirtesy of Failure2Stop).

Thanks, Fellas

Follow the manual on what distance to zero your ACOGS. All mine were zeroed at 100 yards (because @#$& meters).:D

All my NX8 1-8 optics are zeroed at 100 yards as are all of my other NF optics. My EOTECH EXPS 3-0 will get 100 yard zero as well. When I ran red dots they also got a 100 yard zero. I learned the 100 yard zero from an F2S class and it has stuck with since.

Make sure after making adjustments with the COGS, have a armorers hammer with rubber end and give the wind age and elevation a whack or 2. Then shoot again to verify zero.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Apoptotic

In the last several weeks I’ve purchased three ACOGs, as recommended by members of this sub forum, and have begun the process of zeroing them at 100m. I also have an ATACR 1-8x coming too.

A couple of points:
1. I’ve never zeroed beyond 50m because I typically shoot with red dot and holographic sights with magnifiers (this is my only real experience with magnified optics aside from two deployments where I used the TA31F in anger.
2. I zero while in the prone and off of sandbags, a hold over from 20 years in the Army.
3. While in the Army, my Infantry Battalions always zeroed red dot sights, irons and ACOGs at 25m.

So, I want the best zero possible for these new optics (2 on 14.5” ARs and one on a 20”). Do you all think I should abandon my old habit of zeroing off of sandbags and go with a lead sled? If so, which shooting rest(s) do you recommend since I’ve never used one? Are there any particular targets you recommend for the task? I’ve been using the zeroing targets Aimpoint includes with their optics and standard Army 25m zero targets to zero at 50m.

Finally, I appreciate any ACOG-centric advice, i.e. TTPs not found in the manual. For instance, today I learned from an old thread that I should fire one off-target round after making windage/elevation adjustments to preclude “stacked failed adjustments” (coirtesy of Failure2Stop).

Thanks, Fellas

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by davidjinks

All mine were zeroed at 100 yards (because @#$& meters).:D

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This. My cog is a 100 yard zero, but if I were on the high power range, 100m would be fine too.

Spend enough time around marines shooting zeros, and the whole 25m zero with 300m confirmation thing kinda grows on you...

(& ACOGs rock when zeroed to 300m... Just saying.)

Pics for the unimaginative...
https://www.m4carbine.net/attachment...3&d=1613321327

https://www.m4carbine.net/attachment...9&d=1613320548

MA2

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...-100-Yard-Zero

This is an excellent read on the topic.

I personally would zero off of bags in the prone still, as that would be the position you'd probably be in if you really needed the precision anyway. I've heard of folks saying that they have noticeable changes in POI when using a lead sled compared to using bags.

I have always just printed out B-8 targets with a white X ring to make finding the middle of it easier..