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But that cutter is just a basic high speed steel endmill. Very inexpensive. Here's a stupid cheap one for example https://www.shars.com/products/cutti...ingle-end-mill. You want a 4 flute square endmill, 5/16" diameter, 3/8" shank. No need for center-cutting. No need for carbide, fancy coatings, or some $20 MSC or Grainger option. eBay littered
3k is short life for the original cutter. Use Dillon or FA spray lube (or homebrew lanolin + 100% alcohol). And let the cutter do the work vs jamming the cases into it forcefully. Both of those will extend the cutter's life.
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I have found that my Lapua cases need very little attention to the pockets. I wet tumble with pins, after de-capping, so the pockets get cleaned then.
I am not generally in love with Hornady, but I do use their Lock n Load trimmer, a little slow, but quite accurate. As for chamfer and de-burr, I just sit in the easy chair and do 'em up with my rocketship. I usually batch process.
I meant to say cam lock instead of lock n load.
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Been using the WFT and WFT2 for a couple years now and see no reason to do otherwise. It's simple and reliable.
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There isn't a hard rule that a trimmer must include a chamfer, or that you must chamfer, but...
If you don't chamfer after a trim, then you have to accept a very sharp facet scratching the bullet as it is seated. If that works for an application, then the straight cut trimmers mentioned are all fine.
If your necks can be well controlled, one of the tri-trimmers is an advantage since you can get those chamfers all in the same step. If your necks are not tuned to the adjustments, then a straight cut is best but then you may want another step to chamfer the ID.
Trimmers like the ones that also have extra motorized stations allow for those to be used for the chamfer tools, so as long as you don't mind that extra set of steps, those tools compliment your tools.
I think it is good to have all of the different types for contingencies, but I fully understand what budgets are like for those who work for a living while raising kids, etc. These things accumulate over a lifetime.
The Wilson and Forster set ups are very accurate and flexible. I use them for development work. I have most of the others too, the Giraud, WFT, RCBS, etc. I keep the Girauds set up for 223, 6, and 30 cal all the time and just make sure those necks are at the correct size for the ID chamfer to do its thing.
I gave my Best Man one of those Frandford set ups since he is just getting started and doesn't have his reloading standardized just yet. It works well for his level of loading and I don't think it is expensive relatively speaking. I will upgrade his cutter when I get the chance since it appears to be a cheap tool, but it looks like a standard cutter will plug in.
When you consider the amount of guys who shoot with ammo loaded on a Dillon with nothing but a straight cut, and that some of those guys went High Master on that ammo, it says for some purposes the chamfer detail doesn't matter. One has to test their own processes to find out.
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Use the WFT just replaced the cutter with a Carbide mill from WFT Works good and is FAST chamfer and debur after is needed.easy to adjust. Probably 5000 rnds or more
New carbide mill was only $25.00
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I use WFT for 500 cases and under. Does a great job. I utilize either a giraud or Dillion for above 500 cases. That is usually my 556 and 7.62 High Power runs.
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I ended up with a WCT based on reviews that it is guaranteed to consistently trim a case (1 task I wanted) while my other want (no need to chamfer/debur) didn't seem to be 100% guaranteed with an increase in cost.
First 100 cases and I am happy with the WCT. Much faster than the Lee cutter/lock stud while (so far) being idiot proof. Smooth cut so just a slight chamfer inside the mouth has the brass ready to prime.
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I used to use the Lee pilot trimmers exclusively just to keep things simple until I got a few bad ones. They were easy and consistent was why I liked them. The downside was speed and hand fatigue in longer sessions. Lee stood by the warranty on the bad parts I had.
I went looking for another simple option that was easy, consistent, and faster than the Lee. They also did not offer at the time a few calibers I have so I wanted something more universal for those too. I do have a brand new Lyman universal that I bought a complete set of pilots and a power adapter for but it is still brand new because I read that accuracy and consistency are only decent with it. There is also the fact that it needs to be pretty much completely reset every caliber change. I know that any trimmer requires this but it's something that I really hate doing.
I got a WFT2 and chambers for all of my necked rifle cartridges and love it. It only solved a few of the above problems though. I decided that I would eventually buy individual WTF'S for rifle calibers that I have in semi auto so that they are set and forget for the most part and ready to grab and go. I will continue to use the WFT2 for bolt gun calibers that don't see as much volume.
I recently got a bunch of Lee quick trim stuff for straight wall pistol calibers that I reload but have not tested them yet. Reloading for semi auto pistols and AR's has taken a back seat recently,ammo is so prolific lately I'm buying that and hoarding brass for the next lean times.
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Don't rule out the CTS Engineering trimmer. I have one in 308 and one in 223 with thousands of rounds between them. No issues whatsoever. https://www.ctstrimmer.com/6-case-trimmers
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I've used the Lee quick trim with power adapter in my old Lee Hand Press for trimming 6.5 Creedmoor brass. It seems to work okay. Chamfered case mouths don't appear as clean as with something like the Giraud but the Lee is significantly less expensive.
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