UHMWPE stand alone but used ICW lvl IIIA soft armor

Could a stand alone UHMWPE plate backed with lvl IIIA soft armor stop the steel penetrator tip of M855?

I am trying to find some tests or research on a stand alone polyethylene but where someone puts soft armor behind it for M855.
I understand UHMWPE can’t stop “armor piercing” rounds (the steel tip punches through) and for ICW (in conjunction with) ratings, the hard plate and soft armor must be certified together as the specific brand. Not any or all soft armor thrown behind the hard plate will have a NIJ rating because it’s too expensive to test all combinations so only one or two combos are usually endorsed for the ICW rating for each plate.

So what I’m try to find is... Has anyone done a non scientific test where they put soft armor behind a polyethylene plate and shot it with M855? I’m not specifically looking for NIJ testing. I’m just wonder if the hard plate would slow the steel tip down enough where the soft armor would catch it. From what I’ve seen usually the plate catches the copper and lead but steel insert “strips away” and punches through.
What about soft armor on the front and back of the plate?

I’ve just always wondered if that IIIa behind my plate is really adding any protection for me. Or is it just added weight?
I’m interested in the results. Maybe this could be an idea for members on here that have bigger name YouTube channels. They might have the plate and soft armor donated to them to perform the test. Gunsngear are you reading/listening?

I don't want to burn through my plates, testing this but I had a similar thought to yours.

Kinda of different solution though.




What makes plates LVL4 capable isn't their addition of aramid fibers behind the core, it is the addition of ceramic plates infront of the core. I went to home depot and bought a sheet of octagonal tile. I plan on cutting the tile to fit the shape of a plate, and then filling in the gaps and basting it with Silicone adhesive. Once properly infused, roll the plate in codura like wrapping a book in Xmas paper, and applying the adhesive to every layer creating a lamination effect. Also you want the adhesive to catalyze under pressure so find some way to apply pressure to the plate without cracking the ceramic for at least 48 hours. You will want at least 4-6 folds of laminated cordura behind the newly created ceramic core. This new plate will ride IN FRONT of the UHMWPE. The ceramic disrupts and breaks apart the steel core, and the UHMWPE acts as a net to catch the slug and tip rements.

Have you looked at Hesco L210 and U210 plates?
They are rated to stop this round.

Yes, I understand lvl IV has ceramic. I’m not looking at DIY or homemade armor, or trying to add a ceramic plate to the front of my current setup.

I wish the Hesco 210 plates would stop a lead 308. That’s the only thing I see lacking in my opinion.
Does the 210 plates have any ceramic in them? My only concern is being rough on the plates and cracking the ceramic.
I wonder if a 210 plate used ICW soft armor would stop a lead 308?

The L210 has a full ceramic strike face.

Some sources seem to indicate the L210 will "stop" a 308, but with greater than allowable back face deformation, so they aren't "rated" for it.

A soft backer should help that.

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Originally Posted by ace4059

I wish the Hesco 210 plates would stop a lead 308. That’s the only thing I see lacking in my opinion.
Does the 210 plates have any ceramic in them? My only concern is being rough on the plates and cracking the ceramic.
I wonder if a 210 plate used ICW soft armor would stop a lead 308?

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Why not just buy a dedicated Level IV plate?

I didn’t know the L210 was ceramic. Anyone know the difference between the L and U model. I read the info and the only thing I see different is one is single curved and the other is multi curved.

I was trying to stay away from ceramic because I feel they are too fragile for me and I would crack them. Yes, I am hard on my equipment. Hints why I was not looking at lvl IV.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ace4059

I didn’t know the L210 was ceramic. Anyone know the difference between the L and U model. I read the info and the only thing I see different is one is single curved and the other is multi curved.

I was trying to stay away from ceramic because I feel they are too fragile for me and I would crack them. Yes, I am hard on my equipment. Hints why I was not looking at lvl IV.

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Rangers can break ball bearings. They also wear ceramic.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ace4059

I was trying to stay away from ceramic because I feel they are too fragile for me and I would crack them. Yes, I am hard on my equipment. Hints why I was not looking at lvl IV.

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LOL I'm sorry what do you do with your gear? Everyone I know that is "hard" on their gear doesn't worry about replacing it. My experiences with issued SAPI plates tells me you have to be fully negligent to chip your plates. Like; dropping them out of the drivers door of the MRAP after a 16 hour patrol, cause your tired and pissed. One time my vehicle went through a IED blast seat at 20 MPH while I was in the turret. My front SAPI certainly stopped the butterfly trigger on the M2 from touching my heart. My lower spine was not so lucky. That SAPI was still serviceable, and I think I still have it.

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Originally Posted by 1168

Rangers can break ball bearings. They also wear ceramic.

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They also don’t pay for replacements.
I could just see something getting throw on top of my carrier, or taking it out of the trunk at the end of the day and it getting dropped.
Not sure why people are trying to talk me into ceramic.
I thought this was about if soft armor would provide additional protection with polyethylene