This is the machine I was looking at myself. Seems like a decent machine for the cost. I'm assuming you have one of these? I'm also going to look at used Singer 31-15's or Consew 18's based on the other post here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman8
I have basic experience with machines and have wanted to get into making camera straps, slings, small pouches etc so this thread has been informative.
I have an old Singer 15-91 with the direct drive motor I use for webbing and heavy fabrics. Plenty strong enough you just have to have the correct needle and thread tension.
I’ve always wondered how do they get webbing so flat and tight when you fold webbing over and do a box stitch to end a strap like in the photos. And what kind of webbing is this? It seems more like fabric sewed into a tube than webbing.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...14ab1515e3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6478cda9e7.jpg
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That's a distinct possibility, looking at their website and zooming in it could be a 2" or so fabric folded over for 1 inch finished width. Referencing the right photo. is the right side of the "webbing" slightly thicker than the left? Basically if you lay it flat on that table, and run fingers across left to right can you feel it bump up slightly?Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cucvtom
After looking at it again, thats exactly what they did. it's definitely thicker on the right edge where the material folds under. I noticed the Fat Straps on my Spiritus Systems chest rig are the same way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Travelingchild
Not to venture too far off topic but does that take a special attachment for a machine to tuck the material under while at the same time sewing the length of the strap or is that just a skill set?
It wouldn’t be much different than doing a rolled hem or a flat felled seam where you roll fabric onto itself and stitch it down...unless they’re doing something different.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cucvtom
Btw, yes I have the 4423. Most of what I’ve done is silnylon and other materials used for outdoor gear, but I have done a couple small webbing projects and as long as you have the right thread, needle, and settings on the machine, it will do it without a problem. I haven’t tried something like multiple layers of webbing sewed into multiple layers of cordura, but I don’t think it would be a problem within reason. I’m hoping to modify a molle panel to have clips to mate into a chest harness, which would require sewing through 2 layers of webbing, two layers of cordura, and one layer of Velcro....so I guess we’ll see how it does.
Like I mentioned, I’d go to the older gen (all steel/metal) Singer machine for something heavier duty...and in a perfect world I’d have both and only do cordura projects on that so I don’t have to change my silnylon settings on the 4423.
Big reason I asked about the 4423 is that a local store has the 4453 on sale for a decent price. Looks like a updated 4423.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman8
I would much rather find a used 31-15 machine for the durability factor though. Those old machines are solid.
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Yes, on a commercial machine its called a folder it's attached before the foot and "folds the material" to whatever specification its designed for before it reaches the needle.,Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cucvtom
Yes, It can be a learned skill set. Depending on one's patience level.
While I don’t have sewing ability, I do have a 3D printer and I’ve been playing with making rail accessories and just re else engineered the Magpul MS1 slider. While layer adhesion is always the limiting factor, the nylon and PCTPE I’ve been playing with has some wicked good toughness, plus it seems that gear usually is in compression, rather than trying to delamination. If anyone wants a one off, give me a holler. I’m always looking for reasons to use my 3d printer.