S&W 686+3"bbl vs 66-8 2.75"bbl

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Originally Posted by Crow Hunter

It would not be anything that I would be using on a "normal" basis. If I am carrying it is almost always either a G19 or a G42 (or both).
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I do like the idea of having a 38/.357 around though for trigger control practice but I would also like it to have a functional use too. I don't want to get another one that is just going to sit in the safe for years. So if I could get something that was capable of being a CCW weapon if called upon as well as being a dry fire/trigger control trainer that would be ideal and "worth it" to me.

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In that case I would go with the 2.75" 66-8 and send it off for trigger work so there's no 'mystery' as to whether or not the action is good.

2.75” K-frame and send it to a reputable gunsmith. Not only should you have an action job done, but if it’s for defense you should also have the cylinders polished and chamfered for easier loading.

Due to the mass of the cylinder a slicked up K will have a better DA pull than a slicked up L. I am in love with my 686+ but it’s not a carry gun. If I carried a wheelgun it would be a 66-8 supplemented with a 642.

Just to close the loop on this.

I went to the somewhat local shop and dry fired the 4" version. It had an exceptionally nice trigger. Extremely smooth to the point of "buttery". Equal to or maybe even slightly better than the trigger on my old 686-4. I even got within about $60 of what I would have cleared after selling on Gunbroker based on completed sales on the trade in. Color me satisfied.

As an aside, I have never been in a gun store of that size that was that empty. This store has a normal gun inventory similar to a old Gander Mountain. They had well less than half of their normal inventory and that was mostly just their "Fudd" type guns and .22s and they were even thinned out more than usual. The only "tactical black" stuff they had left was their selection of NFA items. Most of their ammo hand been completely picked bare although in completely opposite fashion to the last panic, there was .22 on pallets everywhere but all the buckshot was gone.

We live in interesting times.

All of my S&W's were bought used and the actions were very good to excellent to start with. My newest is a M13 4", last issue before the infamous soulless hole. It needs a little more TLC which it will get soon. IMO:
The L frame is awesome for shooting but not so much for carry due to weight.
The 3" K frame is the best for carry and good for training as well. But the 4" isn't really a big difference.

I really like the old Uncle Mikes rubber grip. Discontinued and hard to find, all of my last UM grip purchases have been through ebay. Used but serviceable. Whatever grips you get make sure they work with speedloaders. The new style S&W cylinder release latch is much better than the old classic style for speedloader use.

A really cool revolver would be a 686 with a 3.5" lightweight barrel and fixed sights !

If the recoil of mild .38 special from a steel revolver causes pain you should shoot lighter bullets for less recoil.

By that I mean you should be looking at .327 Magnum and .32 H&R Magnum revolvers. I dont reccomend firing the .327 as that will hurt you more than .38, but the .32 Mag and .32 S&W Long will be far more enjoyable for you.

Speed loaders and loading strips are available.

I own one revolver a Ruger security 6 with a colt Python barrel on it, it was built by Davis company and has the best action of any revolver I have ever shot. I never shoot it, I never carry it.

I would carry your Glocks and be done with it. Put a quality red dot on it, your shooting will improve as dry firing with RDS is great.

I just picked up a 3 inch Model 629, now there's recoil!