That makes sense, I guess in got a lot to learn
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I’ve heard that the diamond shaped rear sight are for the more experienced user. I’ve never seen one, but it sounds like there must be some truth to it. Glad you solved your problem.
I ordered a front sight post adjustment tool from Brownells, and this is the must have tool if you have trouble adjusting the front sight post. It took only two seconds to insert the tool and move the post. Wish I had this tool from the get go.
For those that are still having problems Zeroing,
1. When you are at the range take a photo of your target, you can even use a cell phone. A lot can been read from a shot up target.
2. Read http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...6xHcXnQA73l9ZQ especially Chapter 4. This is the Army's marksmanship publication and it is available for public release. The principles of marksmanship found in here are largely universal.
A 25 yard zero will put you somewhere between 8 and 10 inches high at 200.
You need to be about 1.5" low at 25 yards to put you really close at 100yards. About 1" low will put you on at 50 yards and 200 yards.
A great thread to figure it out. https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=65679
If you need to change the trigger in order to zero your iron sights, the problem is not the trigger. Or the iron sights.
The topic of messing around with the trigger components came up when another poster asked if there was anything he could do about his "gritty" trigger... It didn't seem to me that he meant it as related to his zero, but a separat issue all together, until he later posted this-
Anyhow thats what started a different topic all together, which is what prompted F2S to step in as he must have thought the same thing...
Just sayin...:)