Grant of G&R Tactical, the owner of this site.
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Grant of G&R Tactical, the owner of this site.
So my buffer is shit, I should throw it away, I won't last long here, my barrel and chamber are shit, my gas port is collossal, my BCG is going to shatter at any moment, and after having to listen to all this BS about a rifle that in three years has given me no problems at all, I'm an a-hole for responding to this negativity with a bit of salt? I'm not gonna lick anyones boots, don't care how much you know. If one or more of you know everything there is to know about the AR platform, but you hate when people ask questions out of ignorance, why are you here? You obviously don't have any questions for us, so you're one of those adolescent nerds that just want to show of your knowledge by down talking everyone that doesn't agree with you 100%? Then a guy who's not even involved calls you out on your collective mouths, and you get all worked up again? It's grow-up thirty, gents. Oh, and Monkey whatever-your-name-is, I can't waste your time, I don't have that power, only you can waste your time, and if this post is a waste of it, stop replying to it.
Back to business. I stuck a tapered pick into my gas port, marked with a marker where it entered the barrel, and measured that mark with my micrometer. This is probably a ballpark method, but I got .076" once and .079" the second time. According to the specs above, that's a bit too big, or "overgassed". So I'm guessing, too much gas out the port, too much gas hits the key, unlocks and pushes the bolt back too fast, buffer is too light, excessive hit on the receiver extension? Not knowing whether the spring in there is regular or extra awesome, my best bet would be to replace both I'm guessing? With this information, and yes, my BCG is semi auto, what buffer should I match up with the standard carbine spring I ordered from Surplus Arms and Ammo? Reliability is paramount, lifespan and recoil are secondary. Is there any way to determine if the current spring I have is regular or super so I can inform the next owner of the lower as to what buffer they should get? Thanks
The TDP is written for select fire rifles and carbines using 5.56mm pressure ammunition to the needs of the military.
A great many people don't run 5.56mm ammunition. A even bigger portion don't have select fire weapons. A big portion aren't using their rifles in the military. Not everything that is in the TDP applies to every rifle ever made.
Some of the absolute softest shooting rifles I've ever shot were dedicated competition rifles with lightened bolt carriers and adjustable gas blocks to meter the gas going to the BCG accordingly.
I doubt Taran Butlers uppers are made to the TDP, and I'm sure they are plenty reliable.
DoubleJ, I'm assuming your gas system length is a carbine on a 16" barrel, a .076-.079 is on the large side. This combined with the light weight buffer was probably done by the manufacturer to make the rifle work with low pressure ammo. This presents a problem when 5.56mm pressure ammunition is introduced into the system, as the rifle is trying to unlock early when the system is still under pressure. As AR15s have evolved, there has been tons of items designed to address this.
IMO, the best solution is a propper gas port to begin with. If you're running with what you have, replacing the buffer spring with a standard spring is worth the slight cost involved, just so you know exactly what you have.
Yeah, the new one I'm building will have all the good stuff, but this one that I'm modifying will have to work with most of what I already have. It is a 16" barrel, and from what I understand it's a carbine length gas system. I ordered 2 carbine springs from SAA, so that switchout can happen next week. I will be ordering an H buffer for my SPR build, so I can try that on this one and see if it works. Would it be safe to assume that the heaviest buffer that will cycle Wolf and other Russian stuff would be ok to use with real 5.56 (assuming my chamber is 5.56) in the event that bad things happen and all I can get is the good stuff, or is the pressure difference great enough that it could be harmful? I also assume that this heaviest buffer solution would need to operate reliably when the rifle is dirty/hot/cold/dry?
The issue with 5.56 is on the chamber end.
Info on the differences between .223 and 5.56mm chambers,
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/514300_.html&page=1
Being that your barrel isn't roll marked 5.56mm, I would just use .223ammunition with it.
The other option would be to check it with a reamer, but they aren't cheap.
You can generally get away with heavier buffers with 5.56mm ammunition, and you'll probably notice a slight increase in felt recoil. So if it will cycle Wolf/Tula with an H buffer, you would be ok with 5.56mm.
Either way you're ahead of the game over a plastic buffer.
I posted that his system is over gassed because it is a DPMS.
DPMS gun are over gassed.
Now that the OP has measured his gas port I see that his gas port is much larger than spec calls out for.
I'm not dogpiling the OP.
Factual information is just that. Factual.
ETA. You will feel slight DECREASE in felt recoil with a heavier buffer.
I was intending to say you'll notice a slight increase in felt recoil with 5.56mm ammunition, everything else being equal.
I also don't think the TDP is a bible that every gun needs to be built to.
Heavier buffers also lower the speed at which the bolt carrier operates.
For rifles I shoot off of the bench, I like using heavier buffers.
For run and gun type, I like it a little lighter and having the action light, quick and snappy. When you're seated at a bench, your body doesn't eat up all of the recoil the same as if your standing.
There are so many componets to recoil in semi-automatic firearms. Its not as simple as saying heavier is less recoil. It has a different feel for sure, but if this is more or less deseirable is up to the user.
Is there any way to adjust the weight of a buffer, ie get a heavy one and pull weights until it stops short stroking? I've been trying to get a .17HM2 conversion running right forever now, and it came down to adding wheel weights to the charging handle (Ruger 10/22) until the timing was right, seems like a similar situation. Is there any way I can simulate gunk in there to make sure it'll function cold and dirty other than shooting a couple hundred bucks worth of ammo?
"I'm sure they are plenty reliable" is an unsubstantiated statement.
I KNOW the following rifles are reliable: BCM, LMT, KAC, Noveske, Daniel Defense, Larue.
If you're going to advocate the usage of an adjustable gas block on a defensive carbine, just say so.
The softest gun I've ever shot was a KAC SR15E3 with a KAC TT brake and an H buffer (and Springco Blue spring). I highly doubt any competitor is using NATO pressure loads. If you know of any...please name drop. More like powder-puff softball loads that barely meet power factor.
But don't let me interrupt your crusade against the TDP being used as a minimum standard of quality. Continue. I really want to hear what you have to say on this. :D *popcorn*