My bad. I thought they had grips with an additional hole and remember reading something about people making some kind of modification.
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The only reason you would need to install the set screw is if you planned on changing the grip panels of the MIAD often, or removing the grip. It isn't necassary and not worth the trouble IMO.
If you tap for a set screw, be gentle when you do it. The tap is small and if you break it you won't be able to put the spring and detent in without a huge amount of fiddle work. Also you might need to cut some of the spring to get everything to fit properly.
I tap the hole on every lower I assemble, it makes life so much easier.
to the original op:
If you have never tapped before, read up on it first. As someone said, you don't want to screw up your receiver. Main points are to use cutting oil to reduce friction, and do it in small steps. You are cutting new threads and the aluminum has to have a place to go, or it will jam up the tap. Go half a turn clockwise, then back off the tap (counter clockwise) a little, repeat until its done. Flush out the pieces, clean up and you are done. Hold tap steady so threads are straight.
Mark
So if I use oil, have patience and only tap a quarter turn or so a time and then back out to clean the threads, I should be alright? Are the taps "self centering" at all? Or do I have to make sure to hold the tap perfectly center over the hole? I imagine that the taps will want to go in center, as long as I do my part.
I'm willing to try this method out, as long as there is not a high chance for failure here. It sounds easy enough, but I also don't want to ruin a KAC lower doing it.
If you do it that way you will be fine. If you meet a lot of resistance, just back off a bit and start again. Not rocket science, just common sense. The flutes in the tap are there so metal pieces have a place to go. Just cut the threads deep enough so set screw is below surface when tight.
Clean out real well and pat yourself on the back!
I had this happen on a buddy's gun. I quick fixed the BS with the installation of a shim/plate.
Likely the most optimal solution would be to bed the stupid grip.
This is one of the downsides to aftermarket circus scenarios. :rolleyes:
I've seen this with one of the .308 lowers and the MIAD grip. My solution was to fill the corresponding area in the grip with a two part epoxy to make the surface to hold the spring. Always modify the cheapest part first was the idea.
I just went through this. Nobody has mentioned looking at the owner's manual supplied with the rifle. I looked at the schematic before I picked up the screwdriver. It showed 1 spring under the pistol grip and 1 under the receiver plate. Upon removal of the pistol grip, 2 springs revealed themselves. I managed to capture the spring I was expecting and lost the other. I went back to the owner's manual and realized the rifle depicted was the older model without the QD cups. I called KAC and they sent me a new spring and pin at no charge. Thanks! But, the owner's manual needs to be updated. And incorporate the set screw solution into production. The BCM Gunfighter Mod 0 looks great on the rifle, BTW.