Having tried many selectors, the bad-cass-st stands above the rest. And if you go slowly, you can reduce the sound of the click.
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Having tried many selectors, the bad-cass-st stands above the rest. And if you go slowly, you can reduce the sound of the click.
Using a sound meter on my phone and placing the phone about 2" from the safety, I get a max of 78 dB when flicking the switch from safe to fire as quickly as possible and 55 dB when trying to go very slow. At 30 yds, that's about 2 dB.
This is on a BAD-CASS-ST.
As mentioned above, if you go slow and manually control the detent engagement, it could be pretty quite, but not completely, when the detent clicks into the detent hole.
M4C members always get extra swag, it's our way of thanking the board members, its operators and mods that have been generous and kind to us from day one :)
Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. I enjoyed them on 1911's and a few HKs. Then, I got my SCAR and really found out what I was missing.
I need to upgrade several rifles; damned shame the ambi-safetys weren't a free upgrade from the Democrats.
Thanks! That has to be the first ever web-posted test report for sound pressure level of a safety lever.
The BAD and milspec levers are not too loud so I'll try the STS as well. Most game I'm not worried, but coyotes can hear a lip squeak at an incredible distance, so I had to ask.
You should only be switching to fire when you're on target anyway, so the small noise would make the coyotes look around in confusion for half a second before they're shot.
You could also just actuate your safety about a thousands times to weaken the spring, which would reduce sound. Or trim the selector spring by a coil or two. Also lubricating the drum's detent channel might help.
What is the difference between the bad-Ass and the bad-Cass? I've been trying to figure it out from the Battle Arms website but I must be missing something. Is it just the short vs. standard throw?
The way it's attached to the drum. The bad-ass can technically fall apart if the screw backs out a bit. The bad-cass will function and stay together until the screws completely fall out, which you should have caught far before then.
I'll take a few pictures if I get the chance.
I think I see it now. The CASS drum has a dove-tail that the selector interfaces with.