Really? Please enlighten those of us who have not bought a special barrel nut (wrench) and had to grind it to fit as to what you are talking about.
ETA- "wrench" for easier context.
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Wow,
Maybe I am reading your post incorrectly, but it seem unduly sarcastic. I never said you had to buy a special barrel nut, nor would I ever suggest to grind a barrel nut.
1. I know if you search a bit you will find people who have hard a hard time as I did with getting the NSR to line up within proper torque regardless of making sure debris, excess grease etc. was not contributing to the problem. The 1st attached picture is of the Noveske 7.5 with Viltor upper, that I had torque issues with. Of course it is fixed now so the image is pointless.
2. Same goes for having to grind a barrel nut tool NOT THE BARREL NUT. I have attached a photo, but that is not a big deal.
3. BARREL NUT ---- I had to USE A LATHE on the barrel nut, on another build to take a few thousands of material from the inside of the barrel nut to clear the barrel shoulder (the part just before the barrel extension).
Attachment 15035
The barrel nut tool ground to fit.
Attachment 15036
I hope this was clear. My only point was to say that in some cases, the NSR takes a bit of work.
Jt
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I quoted you with your wrench comment, but I suppose my context could have been more clear to the other people reading this. My question is regarding your comment stating you had to "buy a special barrel wrench and often grind it to fit".
That is what I'm looking for clarification on. How many barrel nut wrenches did you have to buy, and how many did you have to grind to fit?
You show as having uploaded something, but nothing is viewable using Mozilla Firefox 18.0.1. That seems to be a common board problem when people try to direct upload here instead of using an host for the images.
I could be wrong but I was under the impression that you had to use a nsr specific MUR or else you could run into problems. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
The 1-1/16" crows foot needed is not super common but easily found. Mine (as well as some others) were too fat to fit the NSR barrel nut. So to your point, I bought one and ground it down. I didn't factor it into the price of the rail, nor think it is a deal breaker. Image link below
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/25/upuba2ap.jpg
Jt
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Great info gents. I'm currently shopping for the perverbial henstooth NSR for a build. Looks like it may take some time to complete.
The 1 1/16 or Sunex 27 mm works fine with a small bit of trimming. Got it off Amazon for just a few bucks. Took 20 minutes to get the correct width to fit the NSR barrel nut. No big deal whatsoever.
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/a...-53-27_832.jpg
As far as using an upper that doesn't have the hole machined for the anti-rotation pin I haven't heard any problems. If you are a little paranoid about this you can make a makeshift anti-rotation tab from some optic mounts. For a little insurance I slid my T-1 LaRue LT660 mount slightly forward to where the very front of it overlaps the NSR.
-Jax
ETA: The worry about the NSR 'spinning' is a little overblown. I ran a DD Omega X 12" for years. It's a great rail but has no tabs and it has a much weaker mounting setup compared to the Noveske. Never had a problem with that one either.