I really like the painted AR's but is something that can be removed at a later time, or am I stuck with my spray painted AR when I'm done?
Thanks Matt
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I really like the painted AR's but is something that can be removed at a later time, or am I stuck with my spray painted AR when I'm done?
Thanks Matt
It comes off.
Listen to munch.
He's the man when it comes to cans that go 'rattle'.
-Jax
ETA: OP, your question would be better served in this thread:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=5102
If you don't bake it, it comes off pretty easily.
Of course if you want it to be permanent you CAN bake it on (an hour at 300 per coat, do light coats) and it'll be pretty durable. I've done a number of AKs and Saigas that way. Light even coats, prep well, regrease it INCREDIBLY THOROUGHLY and wear nitrile gloves the whole time.
Oh, and I've found rustoleum works better than krylon for long term permanent application. I prefer 7220 light texture black. Preheat the rifle to about 120 before the first coat, heat the rattle can up under the hot water in your sink (just regular as hot as it goes from the tap) and make sure to shake it really really well.
Yeah, just go ahead and paint it. I use Aervoe or Krylon. If it chips, whatever. Spray more on or leave it be. Acetone or engine degreaser takes it right off. $5 can of Aervoe beats a $300 paint job for me everytime. Good luck.
Check out this thread for a link to the Pat Rogers "Painting your Carbine" article on LF forum... Has step by step instructions with pictures, and he recommends Aervoe paint as well.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=84435
Will acetone hurt the anodized aluminum or any other parts on an AR?
NYH1.
No. I've used it on polymer as well.
+1 on the acetone for removal
I've used Brownells Alumahyde on furniture; given the one-week drying time, it seems totally resistant to oil and nitro solvent. I was building a retro gun, and until I found a minty original buttrap stock, the repainted one worked just fine.
Never had occasion to try to strip it.
Moon
Anyone who's ever cleaned any paint, off anything, probably is not eager to do it again anytime soon - generally it turns into a dirty sweaty mess that takes you twice as long as you thought it would. Plus you are attacking the finish with aggressive solvents which will probably work - but the risk of damaging the original finish is a near certainty..
two words - camouflage tape.
Who cares about the finish...it's a tool. Paint.
Tape comes off when it's most inconvenient, and leaves residue.
Two words - Acetone dip.
Anodizing is a chemical process which results in a physical change to the surface. If you don't roughen the finish prior to applying paint, you can dunk the part in solvent and it will emerge as it was prior to being painted no worse for wear.
If you use something like an acid etch primer (like I do), you will have etching at a microscopic level, but it's also possible that it may come out undetected by the naked eye. I haven't stripped any AR parts which have been painted with the etching primer yet, so I can't confirm anything there.
Agreed!
I just stripped my after being painted with Aervoe and Rustoleum. Came off fine.
There was a bit of residue left, but hot soapy water took that off just fine. No damage to the original coating.:eek:
Laid down my new coats of paint.
So far I've painted six of my rifles, two suppressors and a couple handguns. Also have painted three or four rifles that belong to friends, two to a forum member here.
It just works. Aervoe comes off with just a little work, Krylon even easier for me. But, on polymer it can be a pain in the ass.
What about stripping paint off of plastics like glock lowers
Honestly I dont even wipe mine down before I paint them. Its not a Ferrari.....It actually gets used.
Even with prep...using Krylon is gonna WEAR guaranteed. That being said, I try and double or triple coat ares that see lots of contact with bare hands, however when it wears, it just adds to breaking up shape and still works.
My magwells usually see the most contact when shooting kneeling or prone.
The Shawty has never been touched up....
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...psfb02aee4.jpg
The M4 got a touch up once....this is before. Both Carbines were sprayed...no prep
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...131/M4geRy.jpg
I'm getting ready to clean and refinish one of mine sometime this year.
One of my concerns is how well the various paints show under IR light.
Anyone know anything about this?
Painting let me get over the mental hurdle to start using the gun as a tool, and stop babying it.
Krylon, Rustoleum, etc. go on, are cheap, will wear, can easily be touched up, and with effort will come off.
Neither will cure/harden well.
Alumahyde cures well, but is thick enough to mess up tolerances and will not come off easy.
Gentlemen there are tons of threads on this topic already....