LOL... It's my wife's easter table cloth.
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Obscenejester,
Out of curiosity, how were you supporting the FSB when driving out the pins?
Well, I was supporting it on a piece of wood I had cut out to fit the FSB. Then I went and picked up the Brownell's FSB orange block from a gun shop. That block made it easier but it was still hard as hell. There has got to be a better way to get these out.
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just shave the rear pin down flush with the front pin so it matches then re-paint. that should fix the rifle,but the ass kicking from tearing up the table cloth will be worse...lol
Wood ain't gonna cut it.
Too much bounce.
I've done a few BCM uppers and a DD upper.
A 5/16" punch with a BFH to get the pins started. (2 solid whacks always did it for me.)
Using a large punch, I'm not afraid of marring anything or slipping.
I support the FSB on some steel bar stock resting on the basement floor. (Concrete.)
Super easy.
Yea, you're right. The wood is probably too much bounce. I think what gave me the most problems is that I probably pushed some of the FSB metal over into the pin. I just think from now on, in going to take it to a gunsmith if I ever need to remove it. I don't anticipate me ever needing to remove it ever again though.
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What brand is the barrel/FSB? Seems like that rear pin might have been a bit too soft. I have never had a pin peen over and I have beat the crap out of some FSB pins in my day.
It is a BCM. Maybe I didn't peen it. I'm just assuming I did something or other like that since it wouldn't budge. I put a pretty large steal pin on it and banged away with a large hammer. The front pin moved fine but the rear pin wouldn't budge.
I'd imagine everything will go back together fine since they are taper pins and work by wedging the FSB to the barrel. From looking at it, everything still looks straight. Hopefully I didn't bend anything but I don't think I did. I only ever made contact with the area right around the hole.
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Those taper pins are heat treated and harder than hell.
I doubt you peened it over.
You likely just needed a solid work surface.
(FWIW, I wouldn't use the Brownell's bench block either. But that just me.)
I believe BCM presses them in.
I've never needed it, but some guys will let the pins and FSB soak in penetrating oil overnight.
I always put the barrel on some hard wood. The key is starting out with a big punch. Trying to beat it out with just the 1/8" or 5/32" punch is where a lot of folks run into problems.
The great thing about Taper pins is that once you get it moving it comes out nice and easy. Take a 1/2" or 3/8" punch and hit it hard until the taper pin moves, once you can see it moved, just tap it out with the 1/8" punch.
Works for me every time, although some are harder than others. I have never used penetrating oil on them, and I kind of think that the whole logic behind penetrating oil is pretty ridiculous.