Admittedly, I can be a bit anal at times but I've always felt that the only thing that should ever be cocked is the hammer. :)
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Admittedly, I can be a bit anal at times but I've always felt that the only thing that should ever be cocked is the hammer. :)
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I'm envisioning it low or high, relative to the receiver top rail. Not canted. But only the OP can help us understand the problem.
I've installed handguards that simply will not flush up, no matter how much effort you give it. It's been my observation that it's generally a rail dimension mismatch: one or the other machines on the large side (usually the receiver), while the other comes out at the smaller end of the spec, or is possibly even out of spec.
Most rails don't even carry through to the receiver, and many of those that do don't actually offer any useable slots. We generally don't span the gap with an optic mount, so it's really nothing more than aesthetics at that point.
If this is the case, a front post elevation change should suffice...
Oh yeah, I see that now. I was only going off of what markm said. Dammit, pay closer attention next time, will ya. :p
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Well, it's been day, and the 1 post OP has yet to respond. Wonder if we'll ever find out what they meant by canted and/or if it's been otherwise resolved.
Assuming this is a Daniel Defense MFR, the barrel nut is not timed. The hand guard is secured via 4 set screws that press on a ridge in the barrel nut. Loosen the 4 set screws, align the rail however you please, and re-tighten. That's it.
If there's a step down or up between the upper receiver and hand guard, then one or the other is out of spec.
Curious as to how much you paid as well. These things are really easy to do on your own. I'm sure you can get enough guidance by reading here or watching YouTube.