Is this really necessary? I've got some of each from christmas but the instructions look annoying as hell.
Can I just shoot and clean with one of the products or do I need to do the magic voodoo process before hand, then shoot, then repeat?
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Is this really necessary? I've got some of each from christmas but the instructions look annoying as hell.
Can I just shoot and clean with one of the products or do I need to do the magic voodoo process before hand, then shoot, then repeat?
Everything I've seen said yes, you must do the voodoo.
With Froglube I have seen it gum up either way.
With Fireclean I have not. I have two that have had it applied on top of slip 2000 and sat for 2 years with no issues yet so I don't feel it is as necessary.
NSN-NSW-CROCK-TAC-ODG
Attachment 35222
I have some Frog Lube I picked up to test on one of my school carbines. After I read the instructions, I decided I would stick with what I was using. I am trying to give it away locally.
After the recent marathon thread on Fire Clean I have decided to add it to my next Brownell's or MidwayUSA order and give it a try.
When stripping storage grease and foreign debris from imported weapons I use mineral spirits.
For those of us not in the know, can you post what the instructions are? I recall it being odd but I never heard the specifics.
I've never had any desire to try anything that was anything beyond a simple application.
I will gladly take any frog lube u guys wanna give away =)
I don't have much desire either. Was a gift that I'd actually considered thoughtful, been laying around in the gun room for awhile.
As far as instructions, essentially- you've got to thoroughly degrease all parts then apply, and then apply heat to the metal w/ heat gun or blow dryer for best results...maybe not so for fireclean but def recall reading that on the froglube bottle. I might be missing something too, perhaps a user of one of the products will chime in and add more info or correct me.
Not the end of the world but for a product I'm not dying to use def kind of a PITA.
Major PITA to degrease my AKs though as they all have acetone based Russian or Bulgarian finishes.
I thought, at least a while back, FL said you could just apply it and it would take care of the degreasing, albeit over time. It wasn't the preferred method but it was supposed to work.
They also released their own solvent for the purpose based on user demand. I used it once to degrease a new gun and then only as need on particularly heavy carbon build up.
I'm a user of what I guess is the original recipe. Maybe that makes a difference.
My pocket gun Ruger LCP was starting to rust up. I tried several products but all the same result. Somebody gave me a sample of Frog Lube so I gave it a try. So far no rust. I know there are tests on youtube that show it to be inferior for corrosion resistance but it works great for me. And yes, the first application is a PITA. My EDC G23 has also been Frog Lubed but that's it. I just don't have the time to mess with anything else.....
The Frog Lube instructions and the claims they make are so ridiculous I don't see how they ever sold the first bottle of the stuff.
Lucas Oil Extreme Duty gun oil. Apply and shoot. Break Free, same...
I am sure someone is gonna tell me I am doing it wrong, but I lube the bolt up liberally with Fireclean, and let it set in...then wipe clean after use.
EDIT: dupe post.
The ak finish is a dye on the phosphate. I would think alcohol would be okay for a quick hose down. If it comes off with alcohol, you could always put something more durable on it.
You could simple green the gun, then heat dry it.
Degreasing is not difficult or time consuming. Clean it well, rinse it in solvent, air dry. Done.
It's been a while since the first application and I'm not looking at the instructions. I think all I did was clean off the old lube and degrease with alcohol a couple of times. Then, I applied the FC, let it sit overnight, and applied a second coat. It was kind of a PITA but not enough to leave bad memories or nightmares.
Fireclean is pretty easy. Clean and degrease with alcohol, brake cleaner or acetone. I've even used MPro7 cleaner with Fireclean without any issues. Then just apply Fireclean like any other lube and go shoot.
The only precaution with Fireclean is to remove the previous petroleum based products from the gun before application.
I went the whole 9 yards on all my weapons when I was running FL. Worked great. Then I moved to the arctic (NY), and found out the hard way that FL that "bleeds" out of the metal and isn't THOROUGHLY removed from the weapon turns into a waxy, sticky paste when exposed to cold weather. NOT bueno, not bueno at all...
I also found FL to be an exceptionally bad corrosion resistant (as in not any resistance at all). In under 24 hours carrying IWB in a high humidity environment, the meprolight NS on my P30 rusted so badly that rust actually "bled" down onto the slide and ate through the HE finish - that kind of bad. Might be a fluke, but, I dunno.
I've been slowly working my way through all of my FL'd weapons, re-stripping, and lubing with grease on rails and whatever non-FL oil I have elsewhere.
My experience is only with Froglube. Using paste Froglube I did two BCGs per their instructions, total degrease and hot soak, etc. Those worked fine. I did a few other rifles with minimal processing - wiped existing oil off with a towel and applied Froglube by hand. Those also worked fine.
I found Froglube to be an awesome lube in the summer and when freshly applied, but it gets hard in cold temps and with age it sort of gums up. If I were in a desert I would probably run it exclusively. When I was using it I was in lower Michigan with a range of temps from hot to moderately cold and it was OK, but not ideal in winter. I since moved to northern Michigan where my adopted climate is barely warmer than Alaska (think Mat-Su valley for those who know AK), so I have decided to abandon FL before its cold weather features bite me. I'm now running SLIP2000 or Weaponshield depending what happened to be on the rifle at issue before my Froglube experiments. When I run out of those I may buy one or the other (not sure which) or may try that Lucas "extreme" gun oil.
i followed FireClean's instructions. I bought Isoprop alcohol from the drug store and soaked my SR25 ECC bolt carrier and bolt in it and scrubbed it. Then I applied FC to the bolt (generous) amount. It really didn't do anything for the carbon that was on the tail of the bolt, but it did make cleaning subsequent shooting easy (although other products did the same for me). I just don't think it does much for helping get existing caked on carbon off. Maybe I'm expecting too much.
I did the FL thing. It was nice but became sluggish in the cold and the cold we have here in NC isn't even really that cold. Switched to SLiP2000 EWL and have been extremely pleased since. Not going to try FireCanola. I suspect FL has similar ingredients but have not done any tests. There was a thread on here about lubes and cold. FL and FC performed nearly identical so that was enough for me.
I found that FC worked as well as any other lube when dumped on top of existing lubes, but would get sticky after a while.
Thoroughly degreasing the parts prior to a dumping on FC was noticeably better.
Thoroughly cleaning, degreasing, and applying a few thin layers of FC worked the best for keeping carbon from adhering to parts and making clean-up with just a rag pretty fast.
I don't obsess over carbon on the bolt-tail, and it seems that FC reduces it, but it's always still there after a while.
Periodically adding FC to critical areas (cam pin, bolt carrier mouth, gas rings, chamber, locking lugs, ejector, firing pin, bolt catch, and FCG) keeps the gun chugging along very well.
When I first started shooting my AR carbine, I started with RemOil and when that ran out I used Birchwood Casey's which is about the same thing. I also tried a few of the others- CLP etc. When I got the Frog Lube to try, I just wiped everything down with a dry rag and hit the parts with the oily type Frog Lube. Never had any trouble. It thickens up but thins back out when I shoot, even in freezing temperatures. I've even applied it to my PPQ which was lubed in a couple of places with grease. No trouble there either. No pre-application voodoo, just slathered it on. I like the stuff
Who follow instructions? I use the paste in warmer months. I wipe off the bolt and carrier, slather on some FL, and that's it. I don't degrease or heat anything.
Tried FL on a few 1911s and the only thing good about it was the initial smell. Over time the smell got worse. As a "lube" it was too thick and waxy over time.
T2C is nice enough to donate some FL to me I shall post pictures for you guys on how it goes I do have a glock that has been frog lubed and no i did not do any of the instructions i simply put it on with a paint brush and went and shot it no problems at all. that same glock has been in my night stand for the past 2 months and while it does solidify when i shoot it, it turns back into liquid form. so no problems on my glock... but then again its a glock the thing could run with bacon grease lol
I had the same problem and it got worse, if you have any residual oils in your gun it will react badly to them over time. Frog Lube states you must degrease your gun before which originally I was not aware of, that being said I did wash them out before applying. After a while I noticed it reacting to something(Petroleum based products) so I would clean and reapply FL. Eventually I found out about the solvent and bought that product, initial gun store advice on FL was all wrong keep in mind(2011). So I went with that and still had a reoccurring problems on my guns. The symptoms were a build up a danky smell orange dinge, so I completely degreased all my guns and then reapplied exactly like FL's video channel on YouTube.
The problem continued and I gave up. Back to Breakfree CLP. At this point I was like how degreased must my gun be and how clean must it be before applying "Frog Fail", I used a sonic cleaner on my BCG and other parts on top of this and some regular firing schedule as well. I used a light concentrate of simple green Biodegradable version when washing out my SR15 for example and washed the parts in a sink and after that with hot water again. The gun was dried after words and it was just metal, then applied a decent amount of Frog lube 2&1 formula and the same condition came back.
I had this problem with my HK especially in the Bolt, I believe it might have been HK's gun packing grease from the factory, that being said I lost all confidence I spent a major amount of time cleaning it off. Could have been oils in my magazine leftover as well and naturally as feeding during firing it carried some on the casings possibly, but these would be meniscal amounts.
Ammo:
American Eagle 55gr
PMC Green Tip M855
American Eagle M855
Ruag 63gr Premium ammo(Very Little used)
I did contact Larry lasky at FL and he was very helpful and pointed to me that they sell a Froglube degreaser ..WTF.. at this point I repeated the steps and the problem was still evident, and I simply said to myself "**** It". Ain't nobody got time for that!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFEoMO0pc7k
Conclusion:
I loved the idea of the FrogLube product being Bio Based,and its Minty smell, But it reacts to badly if it happens to get any other oil in contact with it. This also made me come back to the my initial findings that for the type of shooting I'm doing so many other oils are cheaper more easily available that really it just isn't worth the hassle. As for Fireclean I'm not rushing out to get some anytime soon at this point sorry LAV.
The only oils I would consider are:
Fireclean
Slip 2000
Gunzilla
ATF in a jam
Breakfree CLP (CF issue)
Hell Hoppes worked fine for me.
I have used Froglube on a karambit Knife I have and it is working fine.
For years I was a Froglube supporter. I'd had nothing but great things to say about it, and backed it 100%...hell, I even bought the t-shirt. I'd been on here plenty of times defending FL, telling people how they used too much, or didn't follow instructions, or how I never had problems with it freezing up, or gumming up...until it gummed up on me.
For years, I followed the instructions to the letter. All my firearms had been through the FL process multiple tumes, and all was well as far as I was concerned. A few days ago I went out with my shotgun, a Mossberg 500, and something happened. The gun wouldn't fire. To make a long story short, the FL had gummed up around the firing pin, and I was having light primer strikes.
I thought...I must have put too much on. Then it dawned on me, why the hell am I putting up with this shit? Why am I making excuses for FL? It made a functioning gun not function. That's unacceptable. I always told myself that if I'd ever experienced any of these problems that other people were having with FL, I'd be done with it.
Well, I'm a man of my word, so I'm finished with Froglube.
Why is it some folks are having problems with mixing FL with pet based lubes and others aren't? My AR had several types of various lubes used on it without degreasing, including oil out of the crankcase and the FL slathered on top of them has never been a problem
According to FL you should not be doing that...Not sure... All I can say is I really went out of my way degreasing my guns and then reapplying FL and it was still having this issue. Perhaps you are on a shooting schedule and cleaning your guns after with a wipe down and FL has not reacted yet with old oils still in your gun.
One thing I will blantantly call out is considering the procedure FL demands from FL itself, they didn't have warning labels or directions on the bottles I purchased or any info about getting the solvent? If it's a 2 & 1 product and it must be degreased with say FL's own degreaser as well it should be advertised as such.
That's more thorough than anything I did, and I haven't had as much of a problem as you apparently did.
That's kinda the $64,000 question isn't it? Leibermuster's process sounds really thorough. The BCG of mine that FL worked best on was lubed with FL paste before a shot was fired, which may help. But I assume most or all BCGs come with machining oil or preservative oil before they reach the end user's hands, so it's not like you can start with something that has never once had any petroleum oil touch it.
I strongly suspect that the Froglube product is not always the same, whether that's due to intentional changes or unintended variations in the raw materials or process I don't know, but the range of results posted here seems to suggest it's not a uniform product.
FWIW, DSG Arms currently has all their Froglube products on sale at half off. I've noticed in the last couple of years that DSG's sales seem like a good barometer of the items that are going out of style. And let's be honest, some of the wonder lubes of the last 10-20 years have basically been snake oil going in and out of style.
Meanwhile, I'm going to switch to REAL snake oil:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tj7ytiqxx8
I said a long time ago that Frog Lube was a trash product and was going to fall out of style and would be the next snake-oil lube on this very forum.
A couple of well respected guys here got their panties ALL in a wad.
I'm enjoyin' these threads.
Oh my, they have just announced "Froglube Extreme!!!" which supposedly works in cold weather:
http://www.ar15news.com/2015/09/30/n...e-extreme-clp/
Stay tuned. The hyperbole in the intro/advertorial makes for good popcorn munching.
You've got to be kidding me. I can't believe I ever supported this shit. In all honesty, I never had a problem with the regular Froglube freezing up in cold tempetures, but now, they are telling you you need this, and you have to pay even more money for this crap to ensure it works in the extreme cold? They are calling this a gamechanger? Why? There's a million other lubes out there that have always worked in extreme tempetures. Somewhere, there’s a group of Seals out there laughing their asses off at how far they have been able to take this joke.