So tear it apart (you'll learn something new) and put it back together, add some upgraded parts like a BAD-ASS selector, EPS or FCD ABC/R-F. Remove the barrel nut add what ever rail you will. This way you are starting with solid parts.
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So tear it apart (you'll learn something new) and put it back together, add some upgraded parts like a BAD-ASS selector, EPS or FCD ABC/R-F. Remove the barrel nut add what ever rail you will. This way you are starting with solid parts.
The 80% idea is a good one. He could pick up a Bridgeport to finish it with.
I'll post my 2 builds in a different location due to this nonsense and trolling going on in this thread. I'm too old for kindergarten replies just because I'm trying a different approach away from the beaten path. I'll PM everybody who showed true and serious interest in my build and leave it up to them if they want to follow and help out with proper advise based on my set of requirements, and not some unrelated bullshit I never asked for, to be seen in both of my build threads.
That’s one way to get rid of new user.. good job.
Once you complete your builds post them in the custom build forum. Sounds like they will be a one of a kind build. It may help future members with a light weight build.
For a workhorse AR, polymer AR lowers are not nearly mature enough at this point.
Maybe one day, once the thickness is beefed up to match the strength of a typical aluminum lower.
I'd say wait for a sale and pick up a factory Colt or BCM rifle or upper and lower combo that you like.
Tons of good options among those.
If you are really concerned about weight in the lowers, all forged lowers should weigh the same, assuming they are spec'd the same (should be). Also, billet lowers would weigh more, ideally, to meet the same strength specification as a forged lower (this should go for all forged vs billet metals). I read you have an engineering background and have some idea of crystalline structures and what I'm referring to.
For a workhorse AR, any forged lower from a reputable company will do. Aero seems to be about the lowest you can go before you run into the "rolling the dice" realm of standards. I personally feel like anything over BCM will not get much more value for your money (although I would never steer you from a Noveske -$1000+).
Moral of the story is stick with a reputable company and buy parts you can afford.
Tools for a basic build are really not that much. Roll pin punches, roll pin starter punches, a small brass hammer, armorers wrench, a small and large flathead, and upper/lower vice blocks will get you there. You may want to invest in a barrel pinning/dimple jig. Otherwise, putting one together is really not rocket science.
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