Just curious if I did an ok job staking this castle nut or should I redo it?
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Thanks.
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Just curious if I did an ok job staking this castle nut or should I redo it?
Attachment 44656
Attachment 44657
Attachment 44658
Thanks.
Overkill. It will work. Who cares what it looks like.
I've actually have a couple that look like it. I don't know how they got that way:rolleyes: but they should hold up fine.
Looks good. No worries with that at all.
One could argue that's the gold standard for displaced metal into the key hole
Is it juts me or does the RE look crooked in the first pic when compared to the receiver?
MM
Not the prettiest I've ever seen but it should work.
This will make it almost disappear unless you are purposely looking for it.....maybe.
http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/birc...o-gun-blue-pen
I use a spring-loaded punch and they come out real pretty every time.
OP: This is the easiest IMO. A couple of compressions straight down, then angle out. You don't need to move as much metal as you did, just intrude a little into the notch.
Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black works well, as does their black paint touch up pen. I've never used their cold bluing on aluminum (as suggested in a previous post) so I can't comment on how well it might work.
If you are as much a fumble fingers as I am you quickly learn how to cover boo boos.:rolleyes:
Ugly but functional. No need to redo.
Thanks for the replies everyone, for me as long as the staking does it's job and prevents the castle nut from coming loose then I'm happy. I just wanted to make sure I displaced enough metal for it to work.
Yup, thats what I do, much easier and less nerve racking than a hammer and chisel.
This is a very good point. The compressions straight down ensure you don't slip when you start to angle to push the metal outwards. Prevents boogered metal and ugly scratches.
If I did booger it up, I'll file down the sharp edges so they don't rip your fingers open down the road.
Never have used any of the BC aluma-black or their other offerings.
At least you got the castle nut oriented correctly and displaced metal where needed. Was at the range last week and the guy in the next lane was showing me his first build/first AR. Looked OK until I saw he had installed the castle nut backwards.
Me: "Any trouble getting the castle nut snugged up?"
Him: "Nope, just ran it up hand tight and used a round punch to drive it home."
Me: "Well you sure displaced enough metal into the cutout to keep it from backing off."
Him: "Yeah, I'm thinking about using a diamond point chisel to push some more metal in the next slot over. What do you think?"
Me: :cool:
Sometimes you just gotta let nature take it's course.
More for curiosity sake but does colt use a machine to stake their castle nuts? I ask as looking at the square punch on my OEM is damn near erection inspiring it's so perfect.
It looks good enough friend. Enjoy many years of service from your stick.
FWIW - I have parts ADD... if you're like that at all, on figure builds check out the PWS EBT Mod 2 or the new Lantac version
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It doesn't look bad. Should work for it's intended purpose.
I took a 1/32 punch, ground the tip down to a square (used a factory colt stake as a template).
The stakes I do look like a factory stake from colt. A little bit of cold blue and no one would know the difference.
It will work