When gunpowder burns it produces h2o. Like others have said, you need to allow it to evaporate. A .222 diameter tube, closed on one end, will not dry easily.
Printable View
When gunpowder burns it produces h2o. Like others have said, you need to allow it to evaporate. A .222 diameter tube, closed on one end, will not dry easily.
I leave my guns out overnight to acclimate. If they get condensation, i blow dry them or lay them on the radiator overnight.
For a little over $100 shooters can buy a pancake air compressor like they use to run nail guns. All shooters benefit from using air. After hosing down with brake cleaner, use air to blow out condensation.
And post #3: WD 40 dries to a varnish in guns. Even worse, NO oil etc in the chamber or on ammo. This increases bolt thrust to dangerous levels.
Is this a real issue for most people? I live in the southeast, shoot rain or shine, and don’t super often clean the bores of my rifles that have chromed/nitrided or stainless bores. About every 1,000 or so rounds. My main preventative practice is that I leave my weapon case open overnight after I bring the rifle back in, and I put it in a safe in the morning. I make sure steel parts have lube on them. I never use a muzzle cap. My bolt gets cycled frequently before and after a range session for dry fire reps, and maybe that helps.
Edit: I also don’t spray anything in my bore. It gets cleaned with either CLP and/or a copper solvent.
I have gravitated to Ballistol exclusively. It creates an emulsion with water then leaves a film of oil when the water evaporates. That is one of the ways it lives up to company claims when cleaning after shooting Pyrodex and potassium chlorate primers.
I just run a dry patch or snake down the barrel before heading out to make sure no large amounts of oil or anything else Is inside.