So just to clarify for the slow kid: 14.5in barrel zero on 6/3, 16in barrel one click up from 6/3, and 20in barrel 2 clicks or at the "z" mark. Do I have this straight?
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So just to clarify for the slow kid: 14.5in barrel zero on 6/3, 16in barrel one click up from 6/3, and 20in barrel 2 clicks or at the "z" mark. Do I have this straight?
Awesome Wes-
Get the data for the round, bullet mass, muzzle velocity, BC, and such, find some online ballistics program and plot out different graphs and find one with crossover points where you want.
That make sense?
This is what I did with my 16" middy with an LMT rear. Reset the wheel so that it's flush AND 8 clicks below 6/3, zero at 100, shot at 200,4 clicks up-300 at 6/3 and went to the 400, 500 and 600 with the dial up on the knob at the respective markings and she was smacking the 12x12 steel at all ranges. Where at, no clue, but in the grand sceem of things-does it matter?
No rest, just me and the rifle. If the steel was not bright yellow-you won't see it at 600!
Mark
Don't get wrapped around the axle about target types. Get a sheet of copier paper (or some other light-colored background), and put a 2"x2" square on it, made of electrical tape, or pasties, or whatever.
Or, get black paper, rip a 3x5 card in half and attach it. Voila.
If you're going for straight POA/POI, you have everything you need. If you are shooting to an offset in relation to POA, find out what it is and take a ruler with you when you shoot. Personally, I use my factory-original 3" booger-picking finger, divided into convenient 1" sections by the joints.
When we kick RCO packages for the Marines, we use a 1"x1" black or white pasty @ 36yd/33m, stuck to an E-silhouette/MRE box/illegal immigrant/whatever, for irons and optics. The smaller an aimpoint you can give yourself, and the more variables you can get rid of while zeroing, the better you are going to apply the fundamentals and get your popgun dialed in hard.
The targets that have the "how many clicks" graph on them are a nice training aid for remediation, but don't really help a shooter figure out what they're doing and vapor-lock it into the brainpan. Plus, you have to be really lucky to get an electronic file of a target in which the graph prints out to the dimensions they're actually supposed to be. That generally does not happen.
Best I've seen so far are these. In Adobe Reader set Page Scaling to None to get the proper size on 8.5x11".
http://ohmr.ohio.gov/forms/ohmr2444-b.pdf M4 25 meter zeroing target
http://www.bobdbob.com/~deneb/doc/ta...2-25m-zero.pdf M16A2 25 meter target
I'd say you're about right there for 300m BZ using the 25m target. Honestly I don't know if 16" needs the single click - I zeroed mine at 6/3 but I haven't verified that at 300m and probably won't until this spring. So darn cold and wet this last month plus my rifle range only goes to 200 yards. Gonna have to let that slide until next year. Impact is about right at 100 and 200 yards so I expect 300m to be about right.