I have just installed the Magpul B.A.D. lever.
But now the bolt does not end up in the rear position when the last round has been fired.
I currently use a standard buffer, but I am planning to get a H buffer.
Will changing the buffer help???
PR
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I have just installed the Magpul B.A.D. lever.
But now the bolt does not end up in the rear position when the last round has been fired.
I currently use a standard buffer, but I am planning to get a H buffer.
Will changing the buffer help???
PR
Did it run before you installed the B.A.D. Lever?
Everything was running great before installing the B.A.D. lever.
I have also used the Enidyne buffer before, and that ran smooth as well.
PR
Just a thought - if your rifle was running 100% before the addition of an aftermarket piece, it may be the aftermarket piece causing the issue and not some inherent flaw with the rifle.
I would not go modifying a perfectly good rifle when the answer is probably right in front of you.
Very good point.
But it could also something that was borderline working and adding this was enough to cause it to not work. If it were mine I'd try a know good other carrier in it and see what a happens. It could also be running so fast that the magazine doesn't have enough time to lift the bolt catch in time to catch the face of the bolt. Or so slowly and weakly that the bolt isn't moving far enough rearward to be intercepted by the bolt catch. Just things to look for.
"It could also be running so fast that the magazine doesn't have enough time to lift the bolt catch in time to catch the face of the bolt"
I have thought about this myself.
That's why I thought getting an H buffer might help (slow the cycle down a tad).
You guys think that might be a solution.
(I switched from the Enidyne to the standard buffer when I installed the B.A.D. lever)
I run a carbine length gas system.
PR
IF you changed fro mthe Enidyne to the CAR buffer at the same time then yes, it's likely running too fast. An H or H2 buffer would slow it back down close to the cyclic rate of the previous Enidine. Since you have the Enidine already pop it back in there and head back to the range.
FWIW, when I put a BAD on my Colt, I had to go from a H to H2 to get reliable lock-backs. When I added a suppressor, it would only lock back about half the time. I went from a H2 to a 9mm buffer and it locks back 100% both suppressed and unsuppressed.
i find it strange that a BAD would cause failures, it is essentially a floating piece of metal.
Well, it adds more weight and stresses on the ping-pong paddle. On one of my two LWRCs, it occasionally causes bolt hang ups when I charge the gun. If you think about it, you're basically adding more leverage on a pin designed to support just the paddle.
I'm gonna run the B.A.D. through my two carbines for a couple more thousand rounds, if it causes failures, I'll take it off. Otherwise, it is good kit.
i agree with gotm4 that something was borderline failure but the BAD pushed it over the edge. Theres a lot of BADs purchased on another forum I frequent, I havent heard these types of problems there.
Well if it helps, I have two BADs on a DPMS lower and a CMMG lower both on BCM midlength uppers, and I've never had any problems manually charging and getting it to lock on empty practicing reload drills. I've shot them at the range and had no problems getting them to lock back on empty. I will try to run it someday in a class.
It sounds like the BAD is slowing down the rise time of the bolt catch. A heavier Buffer should fix this.
yea slowing the rise time of the follower pushing up the bolt catch, does it do this with certain mags? Timing must be really tight if a BAD can slow a bolt catch enough to where it doesnt catch a cycling bolt.
i got same problems time ago....
with the new Pmag the bolt was not lock open.....
i try and try and try...
the problem was......the anydine..
probably broke...
i replaced it with a normal buffer and the rifle was ok
The weight of the BAD on the bolt release is probably causing it. This was a concern on some earlier devices. I saw a photo of a BAD prototype that had lightening slots cut length-wise in it. It looked to me in the photo that would affect the strength of the lever.
I fired my AR with the BAD for the first time today, and I brought only 3 mags . It started off fine, but then when I added the suppressor, it locked back fine with a standard aluminum mag, but would almost never lock back with the two PMags I brought. (oh, the irony)
That said, I think the BAD is an excellent piece of equipment, especially for clearing double-feeds. At this point, I plan to check mag-by-mag, and will have sort of a first tier/back up system with them.
those with problems, are yall using carbine gas systems?
Could it be that the B.A.D. is causing the bolt-catch to be dragging on the bolt-carrier? Slowing it down and resulting in failures to lock-back?
Are you lefty or righty?
I like the idea behind it but the BAD does not work with 3 guns I have tried it on.
1. Colt- Fits very loose on the bolt catch to where it rattles around.
2. LMT- Same as Colt.
3. KAC- Fits tightly onto the bolt catch but has caused numerous failures to lock back on the last round. I started out with one BAD lever to try, and after 400 rounds the screw was coming loose depsite the blue thread locker that came on the screw. Tried another bad, and it stayed put but still have failure to lock back issues. Happens around 20% of the time. Gun runs fine without it. No difference in performance with a variety of mags and ammo.
Just make sure it works with your gun, and I would not hesitate to use it. I do like the principle behind it as stated...
Thank you guys for your thoughts and input.
I will test the carbine with the Enidine buffer instead, and see if that changes anything.
The only problem with the Enidine, is that it is a little hard to lock the bolt in the rear position when I pull back on the charging handle.
That's why I'm thinking about getting an H buffer or an H2 buffer.
PR
If you can afford it, get an MGI RRB. It does everything the Endline does better and does not have the lock-back issues.
not sure if it was mentioned yet but what kind of upper is on your rifle? standard? billet? ive seen some billet uppers that muck up how the BAD lever works because of the thickness of the receiver. some of them dont have a notch cut out behind the ping pong paddle... sounds like others have had similar issues with failure to lock back on the last round but i just figured i would mention it.
I have a standard Bushmaster carbine, upper and lower.
PR
I just took off my BAD levers from my carbines. I used P-MAGS, USGI mags w/magpul followers, standard Colt 20rnd mags, and all of them did not work in locking the bolt to the rear after the last round. I had no problems with my carbines before I installed the BAD levers, and I really don't want to practice a ton of tap rack bang or sports drills, so I took them off. I'm using identical Colt 6920 carbines built by Specialized Armament.
very strange, both my BADs work fine on my DPMS and CMMG lowers. Is the BAD rubbing slightly enough on the upper so that it interferes with the bolt catch on empty? Would be good to check.
I doubt a heavier buffer would affect it, a slower cycling speed would actually help the bolt catch open since it has more time for the mag follower to push up on the catch. I have a BCM middy and H buffer
It all comes down to the system you are running if you are like 80-90% of the AR owners out there you are running at 16" barrel with a gas system that was intended for a 14.5" the problem here is that you have an extra 1.5" of barrel before the bullet exits and releases pressure off of the operating system. If your bolt is not locking back with the bad lever odds are it barely had enough time to do it with out. like most of these guys have said an heavier buffer would be a good idea. My thoughts would be run an H2 or heavier and a full auto carrier (if your state allows it) and you should solve most of you problems
i have the same issue with a spikes lower and cmmg upper.the problem is the bad lever but most likely not it's fault.i have a slightly deformed bolt catch and am switching it today.the only play you should have is in the catch/spring /rollpin. if the bad is moving on the catch paddle itself. it fits like crap. fix it or take it off.im going to fix it and will update if it works.
Did the problem go away when yall removed the bad?
update. i dont think anyone cares about this thread anymore but my B.A.D. lever is now working 100 %..i changed the paddle and cut 2 coils off the spring. if i had to get which fixed it i would say the spring. im not saying to go cut 2 coils off your spring. yours might need one cut or 3 cut. or just a different spring. all i know is that mine locked the bolt back consistently and im very happy now. i actually j b welded the bad lever to the paddle for a perfectly solid mount.
I'm not using a bad lever but the ebrv2. I was having bolt lock back issues as well and tried the cutting coils and it didn't seem to help.
I conducted a 125 round test using 5 different magazines and 5 different rounds to see if I could come to any conclusion. I noted the 3 mags that were causing the most fail to lockbacks and put new springs in them. No more fail to lockback. My conclusion is at the very least, these type devices may indicate mag springs that are losing their strength. I didn't get around to experimenting with different weight buffers to see if that has any effect on the lever's function.
Just got mine yesterday, can't wait to try it out. I like the feel.....just hope it works as good at the range as it does sitting in the house, we all know how that can go :D!