I know I should tighten the castle nut to 40 in lbs but my wrench doesn't allow for use of a torque wrench. So after the nut is hand tight...how much more do I have to tighten it approximately with the wrench? 1/4 turn 1/8 turn?
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I know I should tighten the castle nut to 40 in lbs but my wrench doesn't allow for use of a torque wrench. So after the nut is hand tight...how much more do I have to tighten it approximately with the wrench? 1/4 turn 1/8 turn?
I don't use a torque wrench and just go by my Mk1 Mod1 'feel o'meter'. Just as tight as I can get it by hand and making sure that the receiver extension doesn't spin within the receiver which will result in a canted stock. Then I stake the end plate into the castle nut.
My new favorite castle nut wrench is the HammerHead Tool that I bought at the SHOT show. It works very well at getting through staking quite easily. The only time I notice I can't tighten a castle nut is on Magpul ASAP plates because of the bar. The Hammer Head Tool engages all four slots in the castle nut and you use both hands on the wrench. Good design.
http://www.hammerheadrifletool.com
Thanks for the info. The Hammerhead looks great and I might get one in the future but for now I already ordered Gear Sector's tool. It seems sturdy enough for just tightening the Castle Nut.
Note: That Hammer head tool he linked to has a 3/8" square drive stamped into the center for use with a TQ wrench. I would buy that tool and use a TQ wrench. If you don't own one, ask your pals.... most guys that have ever rebuilt any sort of engine have at least one in the toolbox. I have 7 :D If you need to borrow one, I'll ship you mine as long as you promise to ship it back in a timely fashion.
In reality you don't need a torque wrench. Apply some anti-seize and get the nut snug, then apply a little more umph. It'll be fine. Just make sure that you stake it good.
what advantage does the hammerhead have over the multitool?
I have the multitool and it works just fine for me.
Thanks for the offer, bro.
I'm straight, but I wouldn't mind a recommendation for a decent one solely dedicated to the AR toolbox.
My issue is a lack of self-confidence. I've managed to strip way too many threads, and have a serious issue with "it's tight enough, now let's just tighten it a little more". My brother has an optic permanently attached to his XM17 that I installed for him. It will not come off. I've stripped the hex screws to hell and back, trying to get it off. Until he gets a new optic, he's stuck with it. One of the four screws is completely missing, since I managed to shear the head off trying to remove it. No, I didn't use red loctite...
The torque wrench's appeal, to my overtightening ass, is that I can objectively determine "propper" mounting. In my case, adding a tool to the toolbox may assist in operator inexperience.
My garage phrase "Tight is tight enough, too tight is stripped." I also use some made up words such as "MakeUmTaller" and "MakeUmStronger". A MakeUmTaller is a milk crate (Hey, I'm short... 5'8") and a MakeUmStronger is a pipe placed over a wrench or ratchet to make you stronger! Fun in the garage!
I occasionally use the Harley Davidson method of torque application: tighten until it strips, then back off a quarter turn....
This is the wrench I have: http://www.gearsector.com/view/product/62/
It seems to be better then most castle nut wrenches out there. I just wish there was a cutout for a torque wrench.
On a side note; Brownells has some great video clips on how to assemble your AR15
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11004/learn/
Whatever you wind up buying, do NOT buy a cheap one. With a precision/calibrated tool like a torque wrench, the extra dough you're out going with a Snap-On/Mac/Matco/etc... wrench buys you consistency and accuracy--both of those characteristics are what you're looking for vs. the brute strength you'd need form a simple one-piece wrench.
Jvencius,
Not arguing on quality tools and thier merit (I own many Snap-On tools) but for an guy to buy a Snap-On or Matco for once every year or two is a bit of a financial overkill. You can buy a Craftsman 3/8" for about $100 and so long as you store it unloaded, it will last your lifetime of 1 or 2 times a year use.
If your an armorer who will use it once or twice a day, spend the money and realize that even your $400 Snap-On is worthless without being sent in and recalibrated. After some time, your Snap-On is no more accurate than the K-Mart special... until that old Snap-On gets recalibrated where then it is GTG again. Most places that use and depend on these items for critical applications have these on an anual recert schedule.
I would hate to see a guy that is 40 years old and never need one before in his life go out and buy the tier one TQ wrench so he can tighten 5 castle nuts and and 10 gas key bolts and then never use it again.
Keep your wits about you, and buy a decent TQ wrench. Craftsman or SK Tools will work fine for most average Joes to use once in a blue moon.
Go to Ebay and search for this: SK 74426
This link may work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-3...motiveQ5fTools
You will find this 250 in/lb 3/8" drive tq wrench for under $100. Thats not a bad deal.
If you have a Sears you can find similar hanging on the shelf. SK is not top tier stuff, but it's way better than the trash found out there in parts stores and wall marts. I have a Snap-On set of 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" that I paid ungodly money for and still have, but I also have the SK version of the same sets and I like the SK just fine. I find SK to be a great VALUE (price vs quality) comapred to most other tool brands out there.
When you have the big jobs to do, put the SK tools away and grab for the Snap On or Matco tools.
I use a RRA wrench which engages 3 slots on the castle nut.
I just do it by feel too. Only issue Ive had is with BCM stock kits. I think they use crap hardware...castle nuts are soft, and the receiver extensions are inconsistent. IMO LMT makes a better setup. Ive had more than one BCM castle nut get bent around the slots for the wrench with what I consider moderate force, and one the receiver extension turned with the castle nut letting the tab on the end plate dig into the threads. I got an LMT kit, and I put quite a bit more pressure on it and it went together fine. Also used other kits (magpul) and never had that issue either. I generally like BCM stuff a lot but I'm not going to use their stock kits anymore.
Staking is important, and its not hard to do. You can touch up the staking with some blueing solution which makes it look nice and professional.
I have THIS ONE and like it quite a lot. It's more than just a plain-Jane stock wrench and if that saves some space in my toolbox w/o compromising functionality, that's a good thing.
Looking for a good torque wrench try your local pawn shops , I bought a $350.00
Snap-On for $80.00 a few years back. Pawn shops usually wont loan on a pos tool.
i am confused on this issue as well. i bought a brownells wrench because i needed to take off two different types of castle nuts and did not want to buy two wrenches. the instructions that came with the wrench says 42 foot pounds. the asap plates i am going to put on say 40 inch pounds. that is a big difference in torque specs. so is it inch pounds or foot pounds. thanks,Mike
I have the Spike's Tactical castle nut wrench. I generally use ASAP plates so this works well for me. I read 40 ft pounds is what it should be tightened at but I tend to use Gotm4s method. Staking is very important and I had to remove a staked castle nut the other day and it was not a problem to loosen it.
Although I make a tool to tighten and remove components on black rifles....Experience and the manufactures suggest setting should be your guide....with that being said...experience goes a long, long way....
Bob
HammerHead Rifle Tool
Agreed, it is a worthwhile tool.
Military Times Hammerhead Rifle Tool Review
http://militarytimes.com/blogs/gears...966-800-mt.jpg
The gear sector wrench is the same as my brownells wrench, and the same $8 wrench most places sell.
On torque wrenches that will see use, check the warranty, not all lifetime tool companies warrant torque wrench. Lowes has Kobalt and I am 95% certain they have torque wrenches too. I dont know their pricing, but their tools are mad by snap-on and not terrible, and better than most. If you are making money with your tools, you already have one.
I got a Hammerhead as well when I was at SHOT and I like it. I even made a few recommends for an updated version as well. Bob seems to really like feedback and is open to suggestions.
I'm a big fan of balance-bar type torque wrenches.
Unless you are putting together the Space Shuttle, they are good enough, and can be easily recalibrated with another torque wrench.
Somewhere I have a mechanic's notebook that shows how to torque using nut diameter and wrench movement past snug.
I know all have been waiting.....
My new barrel tool is in hand and I'll be starting a limited production run next week. If all goes right I'll have them ready for my many beta testers within two weeks....I know, I've been promising to get these out but, the design has been more difficult than I thought....still waiting on the patent pending to finalize as well.
The wait will be worth it I think....the first tool that will grab and contact EVERY tooth on the barrel nut...even with the front site tower in place. 360 degrees of contact, just as with the original HammerHead Rifle Tool...I will tell you now, this is a designated high quality barrel nut tool, this is not a "multi-tool".
Bites hard, Holds Hard!
More to follow, Bob
Last I checked (about two months ago), Lowes' Kobalt torque wrenches have a lifetime guaranty, except for calibration, that's limited to 90 days from DoP.
One thing that really grabbed me about torque wrenches was a comment made by a mechanic who commented that his click-type torque wrenches had to be calibrated about once per year. When asked how he knew if a wrench needed recalibration, he stated:
"We just check 'em against a beam wrench."
40 inch pounds is not tight enough, Think about it, you tighten the cross bolt on a scope ring tighter than that.
Here is what I got from Ken Elmore
"I use 35 ft/lbs, fixed stock, and 40 ft/lbs, sliding stock.
The only INCH / pound spec on the M16 is the carrier key.
Hope this helps.
Run-N-Gun,
Ken
Ken Elmore
Specialized Armament (1990 - Present)
Instructor, COLT Defense (1997 - 2007)
Sergeant, US Army (1986 - 1990)"
I think the inch pounds is a typo in the 23&P.
I think it is a typo as well. I wouldn't get wrapped up in the torque specs. Anyone with mechanical ability can feel when it is tight. Then stake it in place and you will be good to go.
I bought my last torque wrench from LMT. It was expensive as hell, but came calibrated at 40 ft/lbs from the factory, and has a MRP as one of it's accessories! :D