If I'm pulling a pin it's usually because one side has broken off. Those are pretty hard to remove. In my experience removing a whole pin is a whole lot easier. An Arbor press would be really nice for getting the pin in without any hammering.
Printable View
That's correct, I use a Kurt vise to pop out taper pins now.
7500lbs of very controllable clamping force in the palm of your hand.
As GotM4 mentioned, the socket head cap screw is slightly ground so it matches the profile of the side of the FSB.
The allen socket makes room for the large end of the taper pin to move slightly.
I only use the setup pictured above to "pop loose" the pins.
Once they are broken loose, a regular punch moves them out with my 4 oz hammer.
My "fancy" shop leaves much to be desired.
http://ar15barrels.com/gfx/shop1.jpg
http://ar15barrels.com/gfx/shop2.jpg
I attribute most of the good work that come out of the shop the the loose nut behind the wheel, not the machines...
http://ar15barrels.com/gfx/smokepole.jpg
I See a Nipple, this thread is now NSFW:cool:
I still have a "Nipples are for women, not guns" shirt that I picked up at Friendship somewhere LL
Luke, Flintlock Smoothbore shooter for Life
Randall,
Will your new press remove stubborn installed backwards CMT/Stag taper pins? I've sold longer than CAR length Troy and Samson rails to customers wanting to loose the FSB on these barrels and I just cut/grind & refinish the FSB so it fits under the rail of these rails after the bitch of a time you and I both had with my old Stag barrel now a 10.3"
I'm going to be building it up with a LaRue billet upper and the 11" LaRue rail and a Noveske KX3 for it one of these days.
Robb
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes my pin breaks.
I have broken my pusher exactly two times, BOTH on Stag barrels.
The tip of the pusher is a piece of tool steel that I OD grind.
The Kurt vise is very slow and controlled force, but those Stag barrels will make the tool steel crack!
Randall,
I thought the jaws of the Kurt vise (and most other machine vises) were hardened. How did you drill and tap the jaws? I've had a hell of a time drilling, and ESPECIALLY tapping hardened steel, even with the highest quality taps...
Gotcha,
They just looked like the original jaws in the pic. I did not know Kurt also made jaws of aluminum (unless you milled them yourself).
Thanks.