Has anyone used Brownells Aluma Hyde II on theiir AR? I am not going to use krylon but I dont know if I am ready to work with Norells yet either. Can anyone speak to the pros or cons of Aluma Hyde II?
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Has anyone used Brownells Aluma Hyde II on theiir AR? I am not going to use krylon but I dont know if I am ready to work with Norells yet either. Can anyone speak to the pros or cons of Aluma Hyde II?
I am currently collecting parts for a build, and was thinking about painting the handguard. Within the last week, I have been pondering painting the upper and lower, too. I have been looking hard at the Aluma Hyde II. Based on what reviews I could find, it seems to hold up decently. But I guess if you go with the Aluma Hyde II, get a bunch of extra spray nozzles for the can, as it plugs up quickly and easily.
Most recently, I am thinking of going the Duracoat route. I have a compressor, and the Duracoat doesn't require a special recommended curing environment (Brownell's suggests curing the Aluma Hyde II in a 90 degree environment for 24 hours, I think). Also, the Duracoat is available in more color options. I am interested in matching Magpul FDE stuff, and Duracoat has a color named 'Magpul FDE.' Although it is nearly 3x more expensive than Aluma Hyde II, and I'll need to get a sprayer ($12-$25 locally), I think I'm going to go with the Duracoat.
Good luck and have fun with your project.
I've used it with great results.
Clean the part well, preheat it to 90-100 degress in your oven.
Spray It.
Don't touch it again for 7 days, unless you put it in a 90 degree environment, then cure time is reduced to 2 days.
I have also used their baking lacquer with great results.
Degrease, clean well and apply multiple light coats instead of one thick one. Be sure and plug everything like the takedown holes on lowers or you'll be boring them back out.
I let my parts sit in front of a small space heater for at least a week before I even touch them. It is a really durable finish that holds up to most everything except scraping. You can beat it with a hammer to little effect, but a knife edge will peel it right up if you tried to whittle it.
The most important parts are cleaning well and either a long cure time and/or heat curing.
Alumahyde is fine if your patient. When you spray it down, don't touch it for at least a week like the previous poster noted. Once it's on it's pretty solid stuff. Order a can and test it on a part I you're not in a hurry to determine whether or not ts to your liking.
I like AH II but I actually prefer to bake it (yes, you can bake it). because I find that it holds up better if baked (~5.5 hours at 200-220F). Plus, you know, you have the added bonus of being able to dick around with your parts immediately.
Degrease degrease degrease. Prep is very important.
I didn't do an AR but did a CZ-82 with flat black AHII with great results. It's been on there a year. That pistol is kind of my roll on the ATV pistol. Works great just make sure you do your prep work and let it cure.
I have used it as a base coat for all of my paint jobs.
If you can preheat the part and warm the paint-it flows better and covers easier--if you can't bake-hang in the hot attic.
Just remember-it is paint and it can scratch--just like any other paint-regardless of what you want to call it:rolleyes:
It does wear well though
Thanks guys, sounds good, I think I'll give it a try on my PRI handguard first, just to see, I am chicken to paint a whole gun, but I also like the como/painted look of a lot of your carbines too.
I've used Alumihyde on AR's including a stainless barrel, AK's and refinished a couple Aimpoints. If you are patient enough to let it cure, it's tough stuff. We refinished some 870's for the department. They turned out great.
I used it on my SPR build and it worked great. I completely disassembled the rifle and masked the interior of the upper and lower with painters tape. A thorough degreasing with break parts cleaner and let it dry. I sprayed multiple thin coats and allowed it hang dry(cure) for almost 2 weeks, just to be safe, then reassembled. It hasn't chipped or shown any signs of wear over the past year. Very pleased with it.
I used it to refinish a half dozen or so FAL stocks. Works great - just follow the instructions and let it cure. IIRC, a light to medium coat followed by another within 30 minutes works best. IMO, it's too thick use on metal.
And don't let the tip of your glove get in front of the nozzle when spraying. (amhik)
Degrease and degrease, finish with 90% alcohol and use a new dry paint brush to get all lint off.
Again, preheat the parts(sun works great or a hair dryer/heat gun)
I either place the can in the window sill or pail of hot water.
Shake the living piss out of the can and keep shaking during painting(in between paint strokes.
Start the discharge before hitting the parts and continue on through.
Try to hit the parts from various angles and don't get to close.
Use a drop cloth and put grocery bags over you shoes(this stuff really sticks to the soles!
If doing certain parts and you don't want it inside, try rolling a piece of paper smaller than the inside, insert then let it expand-works great on upper receivers, Rem 700 receivers, etc.
Don't expect it to dry well on certain soft rubber/plastic. Does well on all known stocks, etc.
If doing a camo pattern, I use a base of AH II then use Krylon on the patterns.