Typically speaking, the smaller the contact area on the lever, the more likely it will be to leave a mark on your rail.
C4
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Marks are just fine. Where the problem happens is if a pocket/dent is formed. As the weapon recoils, that pocket will continue to become deeper. Over time, the mount can become loose on the rail.
I have access to some high speed video of guns being fired. What goes on with mounts during recoil is shocking.
C4
QD and you actually remove the mount from time to time. Expect a zero shift.
QD and non-QD and you don't EVER remove the mount. No shift.
That's life, some don't like the truth but that's simply it.
I take off my AR optics all the time, most of which are mounted in Larue mounts. Quite honest with you I never cared how much of a shiney spot it leaves ....thats how I know which slot it goes in. Much easier than remembering the T mark.
The fact that it leaves a mark should not be an issue from a practical standpoint
I think the "high end optic " manufacturer statements must be taken with a grain of salt. A NSX 1-4 or a S&B short dot , any microscopic misalignment wouldn't make much difference for its intended use. Lots of these scopes in Larue SPR mounts
For a higher power scope on precision rifle why the hell would you use a quick detatch mount anyways ? Not like you have a iron BUIS
This is why most serious bolt gun shooter uses Badger / Seekings / Nighforce / Near rings and has a 65in lb torque wrench in their kit. Far more repeatable than any QD mount. Doesn't take as long as you think to remove optic
Keep in mind a bit of misalignment due to worn anodizing wouldn't make much difference on a AR with a 1-4 scope, but would make a difference shooting out to 1000yrds with a .5 MOA rifle
Most people who are using QD for AR are using Red Dots etc where the freaking dot is 2 to 4 MOA !
If you really really don't want any shiney spots then run a ADM . I have been happy with mine
Lastly back to the "high end" manufacturers . If you did speak to S&B you would know that they typically need 28MOA to 30MOA ( or 45 MOA for some models ) of slope in 34mm and non cantilever design. Have fun finding a QD mount that meets this requirement
As far as NSX, they don't really need the slope for 1000yds for 308 but most guys will use 20MOA. Nighforce makes this sloped unitized mount and obviously recommends it.
What is the solution in todays mount market? I make no bones about preferring LT mounts and have never seen anything more than a light mark on the underside of the rail. They have always been great for my usage and have worked perfectly... Wouldn't the galling occur due to over tightening of the mount?
What are your thoughts on the new KAC micro mount, other than the sell your first born price?
I think for an AR, the LaRue T1 mount is hard to beat. I bought a KAC T1 mount for the adaptability on different weapons, intending it to be the last mount I ever buy for that T1. The increased cost was, to my mind, offset by the decreased (eliminated) future cost for additional mounts if I move it to an AK, shotgun, etc.
If I knew this T1 was going to live on an AR indefinitely, I'd buy the LaRue mount.