The cross eyed thing is strange. Perhaps you don't have the focus adjusted properly for your vision. I shoot everything with both eyes open and it has never been a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crow Hunter
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The cross eyed thing is strange. Perhaps you don't have the focus adjusted properly for your vision. I shoot everything with both eyes open and it has never been a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crow Hunter
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I run my TR24G in the LaRue LT-135 (1.93" height) mount which gives a similar cheek weld as an RDS/Eotech+riser mount with a lower 1/3 co-witness. It works well from zero to 300 yards for me. It gives me more of a "heads-up" field of vision for close-up work, and at extended distances the higher mount does not negatively effect my sight picture at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crow Hunter
The cross-eyed thing sounds like you may need to adjust the focus as previously mentioned by A.P.
I have been running mine on one of my duty rifles since last July and I am completely sold on the set-up (TR24G in the LaRue LT-135 mount). I am only very slightly faster on CQB drills with my Eotech XPS than I am with the TR24G.
The illumination sources work in every lighting condition I have used the scope in. The green fiber optic source in-conjunction with the F/O sun shade works phenomenally in all daylight conditions, and the tritium works very good for low/no-light. NO batteries to be concerned about:)
I have been able to shoot out to 300yds with it during the ITOA's bi-annual Rifle Field Training Exercises (FTX), and the green triangle works great for both CQB and 300yd shots. You just need to know your hold-offs. I place the tip of the green triangle right between the eyes to get high/center mass hits on the military pop-up silhouette targets @ 300yds. (I use a 100yd zero, and at 300yds my hold-over is 12-13 inches)
As far as durability goes, it has been banged around a bit in the trunk of my squad car and a bunch of training and it hasn't lost zero or suffered any other mishaps, but that can mostly be attributed to the LaRue mount. The scope feels solid as can be expected.
I also run a "Cattail" magnification throw lever from 3GG on mine and it is the best thing since sliced bread.
I hadn't thought about the focus. Since I wear glasses, it may very well have been setup by someone who has less than perfect vision and with my corrected 20/15 it might have been causing that double image.
I didn't see that double image at the 1.5 magnification setting, just at the 1X setting. Hmm... I have to go back there next week to get my new M&P 15 22, so I'll try and adjust the focus for my eyes.
I really liked everything about it except the double vision at 1X.
Thanks for hint.
I went back to the local fun shop today to pick up my new M&P 22 and while I was there, I looked at the TR24 again as well as comparing it side by side with a Aimpoint M4.
I figured out what I was doing wrong... I was focusing on the retical instead of looking through it at the target. :rolleyes: That is why I was seeing a double image.:eek: Once I focused on the target and not the triangle, bingo, no more double image.
I also prefer the view through the TR24 to the Aimpoint quite a bit. I think, if I ever do go Aimpoint, I will get a 4 MOA dot, even with the M4 turned all the way up to max, it was not as noticeable to me when focusing on the target aiming through the dot. I would lose it at times, I think the 4 MOA dot would be much better for a CQB type sight with my eyes.
Thanks for the help guys. A TR24G with a LT-135 mount is on the way as I type. :D
Well, I got it all in and setup.
Great glass, didn't really see much of a problem with the reticle washing out (with a 6P flashlight on the wall). It isn't as bright as it could be, but it doesn't disappear.
Unfortunately, the LT-135 mount is just too high for me. I must have a short face. :(
I could not get a consistent/comfortable cheek-weld. With the reticle centered my cheek was just touching the stock, but if I went prone or had some other reason to climb the stock a little, I would just see the mount and a half moon of light. If I was in a hurry and just pulled the rifle up from ready, I would only see about half of the viewing area. I would have to reposition my head so that the lower part of my cheek (closer to my chin) was just touching the stock. My normal cheek weld is just below my cheekbone. I tried it for about 3 days including shooting/sighting it in on Saturday. I just couldn't make it work for me. When prone/or braced across a garbage can, I had to lift my head above the stock with no cheek weld at all.
I personally don't have any experience with RDS and lower 1/3 cowitness, so that may be part of my problem. I compared it to several other rifles (including an AR with a lower mount and a higher powered scope) and I think it will be better for me to go with the standard LT-104 mount.
Fortunately, my brother loved it on his SCAR (and with the adjustable cheek piece it wasn't too bad for me) so he is going to buy it from me.
So for others reading this in the same boat (Small face), try to get someone who you know that has a LT-135 to let you try it out. It might save you some time and money.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Edit to add: Especially those of you who like me, have more years of experience with hunting rifles/shotguns/Iron site AR's but none in .mil or LEO using lower 1/3 cowitness.
While doing my search for a 1x4 optic I was strongly leaning towards the TR24 but it was hard getting past the triangle reticle. The thought of not having to change batteries was intriguing but not enough to make me lay down cash.Quote:
Originally Posted by Navigating Collapse
I ended up buying a Burris XTR with the 5.56 BDC reticle, and I'm not disappointed in any way...the XTR is a real nice optic.
As for quality you can't go wrong with either.