I had problems with a clamp-on gas block rotating in the past. I just needed that extra insurance to give me peace of mind.
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Shave it. Here's a few pics I took while I did one.
http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/P3190015.jpg
http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/P3190021.jpg
http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/n.../P31900212.jpg
http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/P3190023.jpg
http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/P5200011.jpg
http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/P5200007.jpg
Picture of another shaved FSB done on another barrel.
http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/P7020002.jpg
All you need is a dremel cutoff wheel and a round grinding wheel, either green or orange. Cut the front sight tower, bayonet lug and sling swivels off and do some light sanding with 80gt to take some machine marks off. Work up to 120gt. Take the round wheel and round off where the barrel goes and the gas block portion of the FSB. This makes the profile of the gas block something like a pear---you can see at the muzzle picture. It will take you about an hour to do this operation for the first one. Once you've gotten a hang of it you'll never want to spend $$$ on a low profile gas block because the barrel usually comes witha pinned FSB. It's extremely secure and will be the last thing you have to think about on your rifle. Get your choice of rail system over it and forget about it. Good luck on your quest. It's fun to make sparks fly a little bit every once in a while.