My experience has been that when I got my first AR, a LMT SOPMOD Standard, that the easiest way to getting a VFG and light on it was an Omega rail ($250). I knew I want to free-float the barrel simply because it didn't take much thought that no pressure points on the barrel = GOOD.
Fast forward 2 months and I decided that I wanted my light, a TLR-1, to go further forward as to not cast a shadow from the barrel. This led me to a Troy MRF-R ($270). I learned how to cut the FSB down to a low-profile gas block and it took about 2 hours since it was my first time making sparks fly. Then I figured the rifle was getting too damn heavy. What to do, what to do....
After doing lots of reading and seeing TLR-1/2s and X3/400s go to a 12 o'clock mount and not wanting to have the light cast a shadow on the barrel I decided to build my 7.62x39 AR Pistol. I also knew I wanted the flash hider to be the only thing sticking out past the rail. Figuring out my budget for the gun gave me a few options for a rail. It worked out that YHMs Specter LW rail would be perfect to have only a flash hider protrude from and give sufficient barrel length past the carbine gas port for reliability. And it was $99---
I am getting the bug again to build another upper, perhaps as a 5.56/.22conv for my GF and her daughter because I'm tempted to use a TRX Extreme rail due to the lightness of it. Seeing all these rifles with TRX/VTACs on them does tell me that it's probably the right way to go for a gun that would only have a red dot on it as it would be a learning tool for my GF and her daughter and anyone else wanting to shoot it.
I didn't say much about my 6.5 Grendel because it's a heavy sucker with the 20" mid-heavy profile bbl and a 4-16x50 scope, but it does have a JP/VTAC on it. Very nice handguard that I almost should've put on another rifle, but should I decide I want one of those I'll be able to get my hands on it for about $146 :D

