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grinding fsb
Guys, I'm wanting to install a Troy/Vtac Extreme rail on one of my uppers and with the length I want to go with, will need a low pro gas block.
Question is, will I have a problem with the inside diameter of this rail fitting if I grind my standard fsb?
I tried the search, but could not come up with anything. Thanks in advance.
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I agree it should not be a problem. Mine went just fine.
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Just curious. what are you guys using to refinish your fsb after you grind it?
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I have used various cold bluing and in the video above I use Aluminum Black by Birchwood Casey. It is more of a parkerizing finish and matches the AR finishes better. I have also used high temp bbq or engine paints, but the bluing or similar treats the metal better.
This is a still from the above video.
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d.../alumblk01.jpg
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FYI, I got two of the S&W M&P15TS rifles that come with the Troy Extreme Rails and the gas block that S&W is using is NOT low profile enough to allow a rail segment to be mounted below the gas block. The rail segments us a continues nut bar that fits on the inside of the rail and provides a place for the screws to go into from the outside. This nut bar is the same length as the rail... So if you want to install a rail segment below the gas block for a vertical fore grip or AFG you will need to make sure you have clearanced the bottom of the gas block a bunch.
For my applications I had to use a 3.5" rail segment and cut the middle out of the nut bar. I would have preferred to use a 2" segment but there was not way to get the clearance I needed for that without changing the gas block or grinding on it.
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thank you guys for the information.
Surf, great video thanks!
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Thanks for posting the video link Surf--IŽll be needing to reference it again soon as BCM has 14.5š LWs back in stock.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
Surf
Surf,
Thanks so much for all the videos you've done on AR15 assembly and Glock armoring. I've seen some real old school ones on VHS, but yours are well done and easy to follow. Your vids give this bubba gunsmith a little courage!
Last Monday, I had my FSB removed on my DDM4 and exchanged for a lo-pro gas block/13" TRX rail. After seeing your video (and seeing the nasty scar from the pinning), my OCD got the better of me and I took the original FSB to task. It took me a little longer than 45 minutes because it was my first one. I also did the whole thing with a Dremel because my angle grinder has a broken wheel. The lo-pro gas block is now out and the shaved FSB has been re-pinned. The Aluminum Black worked great on the steel.
Tomorrow will be the test as I'll likely be heading to the range to send a few hundred rounds out to ensure that this gun will function. Thanks again for taking the time to educate.
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Sure you wouldn't rather go with a low pro style gas block? It can be a bit of a PITA to punch out the taper pins, but with a big hammer, some heat and punches, its probably easier than grinding down a FSB. If you don't want to dimple the barrel (BCM sells a slick tool for that), you can pick up a clamp on style DD gas block. I've used several, they work great....
also... if your FSB has bayo lugs, be sure to grid them off too, if you want to mount a rail on the bottom of your hand guard.