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You may want to try some tube type lip balm about every 400 rounds, just use your fingers and apply a very light coat almost to the point you cant tell it is there. It does not effect light performance either. If you are in a dusty enviroment dont use this as it will pick up the dust. Not my idea but I think it comes from a very reliable source IMO, Kyle Lamb as told to him by one of his friends. Hope this may help.Quote:
Originally Posted by TRIDENT82
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For the carbon build up you need to try a WD-40 pen and apply some before you shoot. Everything wipes right off, re apply and you're good to go till next time.
For me, the biggest advantage to the Scout over a pistol light is the ability to hard mount it. I run my Scout bolted directly to the TRX rail, and it offers a VERY low profile, and I have no fear of it coming loose.
Yep. There's virtually no limit to what oil-like substance you can use. Part of my cleaning process for any gun I have is wiping down any light that may be present. Re-assembly/lube includes "refreshing" a skim-coat of oil on the flashlight lens. Just enough to dampen a fingertip, and apply; no need to glop it on.Quote:
Originally Posted by seb5
Take a page from the fratboys; too much foam in a beer cup can get knocked down by rubbing your forehead or the bridge of your nose and applying those fingers to the foam. That's stuff in the oils of your skin reacting to the foam (oil = base vs. foam = acid reaction, right? :confused: ). Anyhow, we cart oils around on our own repulsive carcasses every day (the same ones that gank up your eye-pro lenses; fingerprints, etc.), and they can be put on your flashlight lens as a barrier for soot.
Stepping away fron Scout lights for a moment:
As stated, with metal bezels, practically any oil is of no impact to the material, but one'd have to take a look at the type of lube being used to make sure it won't damage anything polymer. For example, there are specific cautions in the TMs for polymer AN/PEQ-?? devices and a host of other things made from the same material which specify CLP, as it can make the polymer brittle over time. Any lube or gun-cleaning agent that contains Perchloroethylene and/or Methylene Chloride shouldn't be used on polymers.
Chap Stick is a good call for lenses, too. It has the benefit of being universally available, cheap, something you should probably have on your body or in a range/med kit anyway, and ALSO works very well for re-lubing the red O-rings often found on lights/optics. Black O-rings are usually the silicone-impregnated type and don't need lube; red ones will dry out and require occasional lube.
If you have a greasy friend you can probably just rub your light on their face and be good to go.
Good read, guys.
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Originally Posted by Magic_Salad0892
I just rub my nose on the lens of my weaponlights when I wake up in the mornings, thanks to my granmother's genes I have oily skin.:jester:
Does anyone know if a scout light in an offset mount on the 9 will clear a PEQ15 on the 12?
It is for me. I'm back to the original SF G2 and VTAC mount I started with. Bought and sold on Ebay. I didn't lose a dime on it. I upgraded the G2 to a $10 Cree 300 lumen R5, R2, Rs maybe (?) drop in. Much better performance.
Thanks to Trident82's question to Jason, I took the liberty of ordering a Butler Creek Scope Cover. Trident82 what you will need is a Butler Creek Objective 01 Flip Open Scope Cover. Per the Butler Creek website (See Here), the Objective 01 size is for a 1" diameter. Turns out that the Objective 01 fits great on the Scout m300a bezel. Very snug tight. Thanks Jason for the great idea!Quote:
Originally Posted by TRIDENT82
BTW, I found mine on Amazon for $8.96.
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