Im still trying to figure out muzzle flash in the home as being an issue?
if a comp is better at killing cardboard bad guys faster why isnt it good enough at doing it for real?
2 rounds at 25 or 5 at 25 which is better in the same time frame
Printable View
Im still trying to figure out muzzle flash in the home as being an issue?
if a comp is better at killing cardboard bad guys faster why isnt it good enough at doing it for real?
2 rounds at 25 or 5 at 25 which is better in the same time frame
I agree with your argument about a weapon mounted light/laser, in fact I have a CT foregrip but after you identify and fire it is still important to retain your night vision and the Vortex or something like it will help to insure that, in case you miss. Just one added precaution.
No, I'm not wearing night vision, but the flashlight should be used intermittently and lighting up a more distant object. Muzzle flash on the other hand is right in front of your face and the more you reduce that, the less effect it will have on your vision, at least that is my experience, limited as it is.
Another benefit of a good brake is the ability to see your bullet strikes when shooting at distance with a magnified optic.
The Rainier is a good place to start if you don't run a can. I'm happy with the three I'm running including a permed 14.5". Flash control is very decent and was just behind the BC with the ammo I tested in near darkness. (IMI M193 and Mk262.)
On 5.56 mm rifles, I use A2's and Battlecomp's; however, your description sounds more like a training issue rather than a hardware problem...
I personaly run flash supressors a2 it was good enough when i was in the Marines its good enough now. The point of flash supresson is to hide the location of the shooter, in a war (combat) situation. No matter what you use shooting indoors is loud when the fan catches the shit you might not notice the difference. I think i must agree with the white light negating theory. On the other hand i wouldnt change my weapon up because i am not as efficient with it as i would like to be. Its almost like putting lasers on because i cant use the sights. Practice practice
We just finished up with our second patrol rifle certification class for the year. Friday was low light training on our indoor range. We had a wide variety of muzzle devices on the range: A2's, BC's, Phantoms, Vortex's, SF's, and even two brakes (that are getting changed out before they hit the street).
In a completely dark enviroment, I didn't see any of the devices (except for the brakes) which were obnoxious in no light. Not a one of them disrupted my night vision hardly at all.
In my opinion, the only time muzzle flash is a concern, is if you are 100% hidden and involved in a military ambush in no light. In this situation, if the flash could give away your location, then it should be of a concern.
In an urban enviroment, there is usually enough lighting to be seen. For LE, the bad guys usually see you eventually due to shiny badges and flashlights. You can only stick to the shadows so long. If you are in your home, there is usually some lighting. If there aren't any lights on, then I assume that the homeowner is using a flashlight to identify the noise and clear their house.
Bottom line, most of the time your location is usually compromised, and the bad guys have an idea where you are at. You are better off being able to get hits on target as quickly as possible. Muzzle flash is secondary. Gunfights are won in tenths of seconds, and a good muzzle device will provide that advantage to a well trained shooter.
Lastly, use quality ammunition with a good amount of flash retardant. This will do more for killing the flash than the choice of flash hider itself.