Those are my pics and pics don't lie. ;) I also used it on my my LMT barrels where it was unfinished under the FSB and now it looks perfectly uniform. Works great.
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Can we leave the "epic", "win", and "fail" euphemisms to the other gun forums. :rolleyes:
Well, I just experimented with the remains of an old front sight that I chopped. I know it's made from forged steel, but I got the same results with both Aluminum Black and Perma Blue.:blink: Whodathunkit?
Perhaps you should pay the money to have a professional fix your rifle.
A metal bandsaw would be ideal to make the main cuts. If you don;t have that then perhaps a Jigsaw with the hacksaw type blade, or sawzall. Or one of those oscillating multi tools with a bimetal blade. A Dremel could be used but it seems the cutoff disks wear through quickly, unless they make a diamond grit disk, or is the metal too thick for the Dremel disks to get all the way through?
A fixed belt sander would be perfect for the final shaping and smoothing, ut a Dremel or multi tool would do as well.
I'd like to see pics of the 'epic fail'. Did the OP remove the front handguard cap then push the low-pro gas block all the way back (epic fail)? Is it a pinned or set screw gas block? If this is your first gas block install, your problem may not be hardware related.
I have used a Dremel for all of my cut and grind jobs and if you get the right discs then you will only use 2-3 at most. I buy all of my discs and accessories in bulk so in the end the cost is minimal.
Once I have finished the main cutting and grinding I simply use some sandpaper and do the final smooting and polishing. Takes me around 45 minutes or so for a gas block.
I used the reinforced cutting wheel on my Dremel for the main cuts. Then one of the grinding stones to smooth it out and finally the sandpaper wheel to smooth it more.